Re-torque Head bolts on 2210

[Smoody]

I noticed on my 2210 there are pin hole sized bubbles coming from between the head and block, does this mean head gasket is bad, there is no contamination in the radiator or oil and no bubbles in the rad neck. Its not pouring down the side of the block or anything its hardly even there, at operating temp you can see a bubble here and there up front left corner where head and block meet.

Should I re-torque the head bolts to see if that fixes it? if so what is the proper way to do that, loosen then tighten back down?

I am not sure if the head has ever been removed by previous owners.

also, what size socket for the head bolts and the torque specs.

Thanks

 

[clemsonfor]

I noticed on my 2210 there are pin hole sized bubbles coming from between the head and block, does this mean head gasket is bad, there is no contamination in the radiator or oil and no bubbles in the rad neck. Its not pouring down the side of the block or anything its hardly even there, at operating temp you can see a bubble here and there up front left corner where head and block meet.

Should I re-torque the head bolts to see if that fixes it? if so what is the proper way to do that, loosen then tighten back down?

I am not sure if the head has ever been removed by previous owners.

also, what size socket for the head bolts and the torque specs.

Thanks

Not sure on the socket size but sure its metric? Just try some till one fits? I have the head torque specs in a manual for a 240 at home but my guess is one of these guys like Winston cary or C Doc has them handy and can help before i can get to my manual, if not i will post later.

I think one member on here who bought a tractor somewhere maybe the guy who bought a second hand Little Miami tractor (name like Albatross something i think?) had this problem. Maybe a totally different person?

Anyway i would retorque them at first but i think you have blown the seal in the gasket and its leaking compression. I dont think retighting them will do much long term. I think i would buy a new gasket and pull the head if i was you.

 

[Smoody]

I was asking for the socket size as I am at work and do not have 1/2" sockets, I just bought a torque wrench a few days ago, was gonna stop by HF on the way home from work to get the correct socket, else I can determine size when i get home this evening.

The tractor never actually ran hot at least while in my use, 210 degrees shouldn't have blown it I wouldn't think.

I am in the middle of prepping summer food plots so it will have to wait a bit on replacement.

 

[careyo63]

22mm HB. at 135 lbs. and 17mm on the valve cover.

 

[Smoody]

22mm HB. at 135 lbs. and 17mm on the valve cover.

Thanks, do you have torque for valve cover as well?

 

[careyo63]

Good n tight.

 

[Smoody]

Good n tight.

:thumbsup:

 

[Smoody]

Man, I hate to pull the head for such a miniscule leak, its literally just a bubble every few minutes, I would have never knew it if I hadn't been starring at it after flushing the radiator, it does not get above 175 degrees now and i worked it hard.

I already know the answer but is there any sealant safe to run in it to maybe patch that one spot?

 

[284 International]

I have never used the sealers, because I have never understood how they could block holes that aren't the tubes the radiator core. I just don't trust them. That is completely subjective, and I have no support for that position.

I DO have several service manuals for Honda and Suzuki motorcycles that recommend their house brand radiator sealer, though I haven't ever used it.

That was a lot of talking to say "I have no clue..." if it is leaking compression, I have a hard time seeing how a paste would stop what a metal gasket cannot. I would also rather have the thing leaking to the outside of my engine as opposed to the inside, in case it did work and merely shifted the problem to an invisible area.

 

[careyo63]

No harm in checking it. And they may not be tight. and if there not I'd tighten them up. May add about 5lbs just to make sure there tight. Work inside out for the seq. May have been do it for yrs. so no harm no fowl if it's running cool now. I'd like to see a pic. of it and exactly were it's leaking at.

 

[Smoody]

I would also rather have the thing leaking to the outside of my engine as opposed to the inside, in case it did work and merely shifted the problem to an invisible area.

good point

No harm in checking it. And they may not be tight. and if there not I'd tighten them up. May add about 5lbs just to make sure there tight. Work inside out for the seq. May have been do it for yrs. so no harm no fowl if it's running cool now. I'd like to see a pic. of it and exactly were it's leaking at.

I will snap a pic when I get home this evening, I may even shoot a video so you guys can see exactly what I'm referring.

 

[California]

Thanks, do you have torque for valve cover as well?

Careful on that valve cover. It is a cast aluminum shell. I don't think the nuts will bottom on anything, they just stress the shell. Since the valve cover gasket is rubber it should seal with moderate torque.

As I recall YM240 head torque is something like 129 ftlbs + or - 3.

I bought a HF deep impact socket set, 6-point in their own steel box, after seeing it recommended by someone in the HF forum here. I don't see that on HF now. (metric impact sockets). You need a deep socket for the left front head bolt where the radiator brace attaches.

I would try torquing it and see if the bubbling ceases.

Like 284 said, radiator sealer works for radiators (13psi) but I'm not convinced it will seal compression. (400+ psi and flaming hot). Plus it must clog the radiator somewhat.


One last point - if you suspect coolant is escaping I would *always* begin cranking with the compression released, in case water got into a cylinder.

 

[clemsonfor]

Man, I hate to pull the head for such a miniscule leak, its literally just a bubble every few minutes, I would have never knew it if I hadn't been starring at it after flushing the radiator, it does not get above 175 degrees now and i worked it hard.

I already know the answer but is there any sealant safe to run in it to maybe patch that one spot?

If your going to HF to get sockets i would get the black impact ones to use. I have busted a few cheap sockets, suprisingly no HF ones yet (maybe there Lifetime warrenty made them increse specs) but some cheap chrome ones from target.

Anyway id just keep an eye on it after you snug it up and just run it and do your foodplots and maybe keep on till you see more out of it. I bet it worsens in this summers heat, maybe not though?

What are you planting, remember i am just down the road from you, i never got anything planted this last summer but had it ready, just ran out of time when i was there. Im thinking i may plant milo or something? maybe just millet?

 

[Zork]

I think you should follow the torque sequence and recommended foot pounds. I bought a new 2004 and could not find any information about the head bolts in regards to them being stretch type (never retorque) or solid (retorque every XX hours). My outer head was seeping a tiny bit (as evidenced by dirt accumulation) and I found all the outer head bolts (all were solid) at half the recommended torque. I think many of the head gaskets are plain metal (someone here should know) and you may find your torque is nowhere close and correct the issue or if the head bolts are on the money you will need a new gasket. Ive opened engines up before where you could almost turn a few head bolts with your fingers because they were never retorqed. Good luck and keep us posted.X

 

[winston1]

If you decide to re torque I would do as you stated. Loosen first and then torque down. One at a time though.

Probabaly not to relevent, but I have used stop leak on a 454 gmc. It was leaking around the intake manifold. When I finally got rid of it the stop leak was still holding. It works on water leaks but not on high pressure. If the gasket is only leaking from the water port to the outside of the head it would stand a chance to stop it. I would try the re torque first. jmo.

 

[rmully]

With planting season here I would just tighten it up and keep an eye on it ..you may get lucky and that is all you have to do. My old Bronco had a similar leak and tightening worked ...I kept it another 5 years before trading it in.

 

[Smoody]

I am going to HF on lunch break to get the sockets, I snapped a few pictures of where it is bubbling, its below front injector on the front left corner.

 

[Smoody]

What are you planting, remember i am just down the road from you, i never got anything planted this last summer but had it ready, just ran out of time when i was there. Im thinking i may plant milo or something? maybe just millet?

Clemsonfor,

I have about 3 1 acre plots, right now I am plowing strips around them all and getting ready to pant switchgrass and sudan-sorghum for screening. Closer to May I will be planting eagle soybean, lab lab, chicory, and sunflower.

 

[Zork]

That # 2 photo appears to show what looks like spray copper-coat on the gasket. My engine required the removal of the rocker arm rails. Re-torque to a "specified amount" in a specified sequence; don't just tighten them down.

Edit: You might want to lube the threads on that injector and remove it to inspect for a deteriorated lower injector casing (not sure of the right term). You don't want that rusted lower to break off in the head.

 

[Smoody]

I will take a look at that injector, doesn't appear to me that rust is down inside the outer part of the injector, I see where it looks that way in the photo though.

As far as any sealant spray, nothing is flaking off anywhere that looks like any type of sealant, but I am not sure what your referring to. I believe that is just grease and dirt, I will take a warm rag this evening and see if that wipes off easy.

HF did not have a 22MM deep socket by itself and I have no need for the complete set at $37. I will stop by Lowes after work.