re-seeding information wanted

   / re-seeding information wanted #11  
"In fact, aeration is unlikely to be of economic benefit in the vast majority of cases." "I spent 4 days aerating, and could not detect any difference in the pasture thereafter" Thanks for your experience. Hard to know what will or will not be productive. Sounded good.
I am not in any way disputing have tractor will travel, but I noticed a big difference. If I had done aerating and no seeding, it would not have been as noticeable, but I believe aerating stale, low productivity fields prior to lime, fertilizer or seed loosens the ground and makes all those soil amendments work better.
Compacted “tight” ground does not absorb lime, fertilizer or seed as well as ground that has been well aerated. For example, if I spread lime on a compacted field and there was a rain storm, the lime may run to low spots. If aerated, it will run into the holes. Same can be said for the organic mushroom compost we spread on the fields.
Just my .02
 
   / re-seeding information wanted #12  
I have 30+ acres of grass that has been used for pasture and hay. The past 10 years mostly mowed for hay, by a neighbor. It has been fertilized and limed but the amount of round baled hay gotten in is falling each year. Two years ago I hand-reseeded, then culti-packed, a few areas where some excavation work was done. I harrowed first. My hay man(who works full-time as an electrician) noticed the difference in the amount of grass that came up in the newly seeded areas, and was thinking of drilling some fescue last fall in the remaining acreage. He did not tho. I agreed to purchase the seed if he did the work. Any suggestions about this project? I just spoke w/the county agent, he said September may be the best time to plant but March could work if there was not a late freeze. I want to keep my hay man happy, as he not only mows the fields but a few hard-to-get places that would be time-consuming for me to mow by hand. All input is appreciated.
Get a soil test done and follow the recommendations on that when you put anything on your field. I am doing some more in depth testing this year and getting a microbial count as well. I recent years it has become apparent that the bacteria and microbes in your soil actually make the nutrients added to or already available in the soil more available/easier for the plant to uptake. That results in more volume yes but it makes for significantly more available protein in the forage. From what I have read on this it seems like there might be some easy and relatively cheap ways to stimulate bacterial/microbial growth. Food for thought
I am a long long way from where you are and it is a pretty darned safe bet that things are done way different most likely completely different where you are than here. But for me there is nothing like turning a field over for getting better production. But if I am reading your situation right these renovation tactics may be the best way to go
Just a last thought here. I see you are in Tennessee are you having any water/rain issues with any of your crops over a full year? IE are your fields drying out to the point of slow or no growth? When you plow a field you add organics to the soil structure improving your water retention. Plowing down "green manure" will add both organics improving moisture retention and add nutrients. As a bonus this will stimulate the biologics in your soil saving some fertilizer inputs in the years to come. More food for thought
 
   / re-seeding information wanted #13  
I have 30+ acres of grass that has been used for pasture and hay. The past 10 years mostly mowed for hay, by a neighbor. It has been fertilized and limed but the amount of round baled hay gotten in is falling each year. ...
What type of grass are you growing?

Here in East Texas, Common Bermuda Grass is what everyone wants for horse quality hay. Anything mixed with it becomes cow and goat hay. If there isn't any Bermuda in it at all, just just junk hay.

Once Bermuda is established, you never add any seed. It spreads by runners, so more seed doesn't accomplish anything. Most people use sprigs to get it going instead of seed because of how much faster and cheaper is.

If it's not growing in an area, or it's not growing well, then the soil needs help. Sending in a soil sample will tell you what you need to add to the soil. This can be a multi year process to get it where it needs to be for the best results.
 
   / re-seeding information wanted #14  
Jiggs Bermuda grass I what local hay producers have sprigged the last few yrs where I live in N Central Texas. Common bermudagrass is more drought resistant but doesn't yield as much foliage per acre as hybrid bermudagrass.
 
   / re-seeding information wanted #15  
Talk to your hay farmer and ask him what he wants to grow. I would think he wants orchard grass Timothy mix if for horses. I used Rebel Fescue and an endophyte free fescue and grows strong.
 
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   / re-seeding information wanted #16  
"In fact, aeration is unlikely to be of economic benefit in the vast majority of cases." "I spent 4 days aerating, and could not detect any difference in the pasture thereafter" Thanks for your experience. Hard to know what will or will not be productive. Sounded good.
I think soil aeration depends on soil type where one lives. Several yrs back I pulled an Aerway spiker similar to previous photo BUT the one I pulled had 4 large concrete blocks added. Some fields responded to aeration & some didn't. Where I live in Summertime very deep cracks in will be very prevalent. How can a hole punched 6-8'' deep get roots, fertilizer & rainwater to same depth as the deep cracks Mother Nature made?
 
   / re-seeding information wanted #17  
I think soil aeration depends on soil type where one lives. Several yrs back I pulled an Aerway spiker similar to previous photo BUT the one I pulled had 4 large concrete blocks added. Some fields responded to aeration & some didn't. Where I live in Summertime very deep cracks in will be very prevalent. How can a hole punched 6-8'' deep get roots, fertilizer & rainwater to same depth as the deep cracks Mother Nature made?

It won’t help with that, but it can help cut your root-bound clump grasses and help them grow new roots.
In my area, we get a little soil cracking, but nothing like you describe. Only clay does that up here.
 
   / re-seeding information wanted #19  
Do a Google search for "frost seeding". More than several University Extension Offices should have info on it. I've used it 6+ times in the past 20 years to re-seed both pasture, and my small hayfield. Only 1 time was it not very successful, and that was 2 years ago. Temperatures did not get cold enough to honeycomb the ground to pull the seed in. Once you understand the concept, you'll understand. You're basically mimicking Mother Nature by spreading seed on the ground during that period in early Spring when the ground honeycombs during the freeze/thaw cycle. Seeds will get in the open honeycomb, and the freeze/thaw will pull the seed in, and cover it up. Here in Central Ohio, the period to do that is the last 2 weeks, of Feb., through the first 2 weeks of March. 2 years ago, with the mild winter we had, it simply did not get cold enough to do that, after I spread the seed, at least on the part I had disked up in the Fall after doing a complete burn down due to some noxious weeds I'd picked up in some hay I purchased, then spread the manure on the field. It did however work well on the part that was still in sod, and not sure why.

In May of that year, after seeing that frost seeding wasn't successful, I disked it up, and broadcast more of the same seed. This planting was successful, but didn't get much off of it the first year. However, last year I was very pleased with results.

The hay I raise is for my horses. It was sowed in Rye Grass for 15 or so years. There was simply too much waste of first cutting hay, as the Rye Grass was course and stemmy. I finally decided it was time to switch to something more palatable for them. I went with a mix of Cajun (name brand) Fescue, an endophyte free fescue, red clover, Tuukka Timothy, alfalfa, and bluegrass, and some Renovation white clover (also brand name) to put N in the ground. Too many years of spreading Urea on, just ahead of a supposed rain predicted by the National Weather Service, but never happened, so it evaporated. Happy to report, the horses are loving this hay, and eat the first cutting very well. Second cutting even
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better.

I pulled soil samples last Fall to check and see if the Renovation clover was doing its job. Our Extension Agent called last week, so as to come in and talk over what amendments I'd need. With the weather we've had, haven't made it in yet, but he did tell me over the phone, the PH level is perfect N & K levels are great, just need to add a bit of phosphorous this year, how much, I don't know yet. With the price of fertilizer going off the charts this year, that is surely good news to me.

As for the frost seeding, you can always do a small section of your choice, and see if it works for you. You're not that much South of me, so with the present weather this winter so far, you could be in the prime season to do it. It doesn't take anything fancy to spread it. I use an old Seed Easy PTO spreader on my little Farmall Super C, and it does a great job. You just have to pick a day, or time of day where the wind isn't blowing hard, like it does here in March, or just wait until early evening, when the wind lays.

For a backup plan, or to sow Timothy in Sept. I use a 4' slit seeder, which does very well too. Many rental companies who rent a full line of equipment, usually rent these too. They are small, but with mine, suggested speed to plant is 7 mph., so you can cover some ground. Here, extension offices also rent no-till drills, and last I heard, charged $15 per acre to rent. Way less than buying one.
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   / re-seeding information wanted #20  
I think soil aeration depends on soil type where one lives. Several yrs back I pulled an Aerway spiker similar to previous photo BUT the one I pulled had 4 large concrete blocks added. Some fields responded to aeration & some didn't. Where I live in Summertime very deep cracks in will be very prevalent. How can a hole punched 6-8'' deep get roots, fertilizer & rainwater to same depth as the deep cracks Mother Nature made?
Might be wrong for your area, but for me, grass roots run 2-8” deep. We also tend to have a lot of reddish clay so we made an aerator out of a piece of pipe and some 1/4” AR400 plate. Sweatshirt hanging on the ssqa. Can be filled with water if I need more penetration.
 

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