Racor filter on a bx24

[leonz]

I was wondering what the replacement interval is for the spin on cartridge (r12s) for the racor filter i have coming. Obviously if I get a bad batch of fuel or notice alot of crap in the bowl i would change it sooner, I am just wondering how often to replace it assuming everything is working as it should.

The minute that thing beguns to plug it runs like crap and if the crap volume is bad enough it will kill it dead and that tells you how good that are and how much crap is in the fuel.


We had a lot of roof drills that died when they were on diesel and the filters were plugged solid and you know that they were working and the engines smoked less.

 

[leonz]

Racor rates their compact filter units for 255 F.

Finding mounting space, under the hood, is another story.

you can always bolt it to the rops easily and run fuel line as you want it above the tank to aviod fuel loss while changing filters.

 

[JoeL4330]

doesn't mounting it above the tank mean that you have to clamp the line when changing the filter ...or, fuel drains out of the line and, even if you fill the bowl with fuel, you can end up "losing the prime" and a PITA starting problem ...or, instead of clamping, you need to be able to "pull a vacuum" on the line (or, pressurize the tank with your shopvac!)

 

[leonz]

No fuss no muss,


Bolt it to the ROPS and you avoid using a ball valve or GASP!, a pair of vise grips which will ruin the fuel tubing to shut the fuel off if its mounted below the tank.

Having it on the rops get it clear of the loader or loader arms, mower deck, snow blower etc.


The diesel fuel will go wherever it needs to go as long as the tank is filled with fuel and can pull it out due to the negative pressure gradient anyway so no worries.


The spin on units will require you to fill them prior to reinstalling them and then priming the system with the primer bulb .

The drop in cartridge units simply need to be primed at the lift pump or cheat and use a tiny tiny tiny bit of air pressure in the tank with the bleeder open.

 

[roma3112]

not having the filter assy yet I am just thinking that I would still like to mount it under the hood somehow. I know mounting it to the rops is a potential spot, but i would like to put it there as a last resort. I was thinking i could loop a few sections of fuel line from the suction side of the tank and the pump side, and bring those lines up under the hood to a suitable location (if found) to mount the filter.
As far as the valve goes my last hope is napa or a pluming supply house. I would like a shut off inline with the tank somehow. The problem with all the valves that I have found so far is that the restriction to fuel flow. These pet cock style valves are for like say an ice maker on your fridge. They just looked like they would create an unacceptable restriction to flow. I am hoping to go to napa in the AM and and try my luck.

 

[Shimon]

As far as the valve goes my last hope is napa or a pluming supply house. I would like a shut off inline with the tank somehow. The problem with all the valves that I have found so far is that the restriction to fuel flow. These pet cock style valves are for like say an ice maker on your fridge. They just looked like they would create an unacceptable restriction to flow. I am hoping to go to napa in the AM and and try my luck.

Order a KantLeak brass valve. We use them on these filters all the time. They are excellent valves. We mount them right to the intake port on the fuel filter. McMaster Carr sells them as well as other places.

 

[roma3112]

shimon
thanks for the post! I finally have all the fittings and hose to install this thing. I have only one dilema. I have to take the machine for warranty service for a leaking hydrolic control block, that being said. I am a little paranoid about voiding my warranty as far as modifying the fuel system (even slightly), am I just crazy. Obivously the install will be neat clean and look factory. Should I go ahead and put it in or wait a few weeks for the repair to be done.

 

[Shimon]

I have to take the machine for warranty service for a leaking hydrolic control block, that being said. I am a little paranoid about voiding my warranty as far as modifying the fuel system (even slightly), am I just crazy. Obivously the install will be neat clean and look factory. Should I go ahead and put it in or wait a few weeks for the repair to be done.

It all depends on the dealer. Most won't care but there are always a couple of jerks out there. I wouldn't take a chance so I would wait. Just my opinion.

 

[sw03]

They dont worry about dirty fuel too much as they filter everything from what I have read and remember reading about diesel fuel dispensing in japan- all 2 micron from what I read I think anyway.

You would be amazed at all the crap and water you pull out of your fuel even at 5 micron and double that with a 2 micron unit.

Be sure to buy the Raycor 1100 unit with the thermostatically controlled fuel element which is located in the drain bowl and it will preheat the fuel before it enters the indirect injection pump which will also lengthen the life of your fuel pump.

you could conect the fuel heater to the hot side of the battery and use a 15 amp fuse to protect it.

You will be saving and lengthening the life of your engine and you will see a better running power unit.

Okay, but it pulls "crap" out of the fuel..And does this "crap" reduce engine wear? If, yes please show data.

I love synthetic oil and used for years; but, when people say an engine will last longer no one will prove that....

Same with fuel pump longevity...Just saying I have yet to see the data that supports anything...

Example, I spend $200 on elec to heat fuel to save a $200 fuel pump...

 

[leonz]

About the Racor filter system,

Over time the "crap" above 2 micron in size will cripple your fuel system and ruin your injection pump.

The same can be said for the engine oil system in your crank case.


The Racor pulls the water out and as it has a lower viscosity than the fuel it settles to the bottom while the fule is being centrifuged and then filtered.

The Kubota filter simply clogs and alllows a lttle fuel out and any water trapped in the filter.


The fuel is cleaner when it enters the lift pump, and has no water in it, and if you filter to 2 micron, your fuel pump and injection nozzles will last much much longer and it will not smoke as much, our diesels smoked a lot less with the Racor fuel filters.


Please go to the Racor filters site at Please wait while we redirect... and read the case studies for fuel filtration and oil filtration.