Question to the firewood gurus

   / Question to the firewood gurus #21  
I built a spitter years ago with a 15hp engine, 22gpm dual stage pump, 3/4 lines every where and 5in cylinder. Its fast and has a 4way permidently welded on it. I can cut wood right in half with it. How ever it's a pain to move, dosnt tip down and is electric start so the battery is always dead. I find my self useing a 22ton husky for 98* of my wood. For the 2% it dosnt split I throw it in the burn barrel.
 
   / Question to the firewood gurus #22  
Yeah, that's the trouble, and it's why I've been sticking with this 22-ton Huskee chassis, despite having mostly out-grown it. It's light, it's easy to move by hand, it tips vertical in about 5 seconds... all good stuff. Really, if it had a larger tank and larger bung on the tank outlet, it'd be the perfect machine.

I have thought about just cutting one broad wall open on the tank, and welding my own tank extension onto it. I'd do the bung fitting at the same time, stepping that up to 1-1/2" NPT. But it might be easier to just sell this one and buy a 35-ton splitter chassis, as all that'd need would be a cylinder "downgrade" from 6-inch to 4-inch.

As to electric start, I solved the problem by putting a 50A connector on the splitter, instead of a battery. I bought a 15 ft cable set for all of $15 - $20, cut the big allegator clamps off each end, and mounted the same 50A connectors on each end of the cord, and then I mounted the same connector with direct battery connection (thru fuse) to each tractor. On a cold morning, I just park the tractor next to the splitter, plug in the cord, and start the splitter off the tractor battery. Never need to worry about maintaining a battery on the splitter, and no added weight while moving it.
 
   / Question to the firewood gurus #23  
So, I just did a quick search on 35-ton splitters, thinking that a platform replacement might be easier and cheaper than enlarging my tank or adding a radiator to cool the too-hot ATF. But I'm surprised by what I find:


This looks like a pretty respectable platform, with the 270cc Honda and 3/4" valve and ports. But the tank is only 8 gallons! :oops:

They don't specify pump size, but form their cylinder sizing and stroke time, we can easily calculate they're seeing net 15 GPM. Likely a standard 16 GPM pump spun slightly below spec RPM, or they're adding a second for time lost in reversing directions. So that's all fine, I already said earlier in this thread that 1/2 gallon capacity per 1 GPM pump size runs warm, but acceptable.

Anyone know of a reasonable (e.g. ~$3k) splitter chassis with a larger tank and line sizing? I don't mind upgrading a pump and swapping a cylinder, but if it comes down to doing the whole engine + pump + lines + valve + cylinder all over again, then I'd might as well just continue expanding on my current platform.
 
   / Question to the firewood gurus #24  
So is it accurate to say the key variables affecting splitter speed are high GPM working a small diameter (yet adequate strength) cylinder?

Everything else - engine size, pump size, plumbing size, fluid reservoir, valves, heat dissipation, welds and fitment either enhance or restrict that objective - but high GPM is key.

Ergonomics and build quality are important, though the objective is to boil down to what is most critical for a meaningful comparison between Splitter A and Splitter B...beyond color scheme and tire size!
 
Last edited:
   / Question to the firewood gurus #25  
So is it accurate to say the key variables affecting splitter speed are high GPM working a small diameter (yet adequate strength) cylinder?

Everything else - engine size, pump size, plumbing size, fluid reservoir, valves, heat dissipation, welds and fitment either enhance or restrict that objective - but high GPM is key.

Ergonomics and build quality are important, though the objective is to boil down to what is most critical for a meaningful comparison between Splitter A and Splitter B...beyond color scheme and tire size!
I’d say you’re right for the most part as there are other platforms for splitters such as the kinetic type.
 
   / Question to the firewood gurus #26  
So is it accurate to say the key variables affecting splitter speed are high GPM working a small diameter (yet adequate strength) cylinder?

Everything else - engine size, pump size, plumbing size, fluid reservoir, valves, heat dissipation, welds and fitment either enhance or restrict that objective - but high GPM is key.

Ergonomics and build quality are important, though the objective is to boil down to what is most critical for a meaningful comparison between Splitter A and Splitter B...beyond color scheme and tire size!
Yes. Ergonomics need to be decent as well, but a big pump on a 4" cylinder is going to be the key factors in keeping any impatient user happy.

Engine needs to be large enough to turn the pump, there's a direct relationship between GPM and input horsepower, and lines and ports need to be large enough to not restrict flow / build unreasonable back pressure over the operating temperature range. That's all easy, as manufacturers like Wuxi Butcher (who make the pumps for most consumer-grade splitters) have tables of recommend line sizing and input horsepower, for a given pump and conditions.
 
   / Question to the firewood gurus #27  
Would it be worth plumbing in a little cooler? Mine gets pretty warm but not to hot to the touch.
 
   / Question to the firewood gurus #28  
Would it be worth plumbing in a little cooler? Mine gets pretty warm but not to hot to the touch.
That was my plan, when I upgraded the pump from 16 GPM to 19 GPM. But it was winter, and I had wood to split, so I figured I'd give it a try and see how hot it ran.

The gauge on my tank shows the fluid never really creeping up above 180F, which means I might see over 200F on a warmer day, but then again... I don't do long splitting sessions on hot days. So, between that and the challenges of mounting a cooler where it will never get damaged while towing or with wood flying, I've just not bothered with it yet.
 
   / Question to the firewood gurus #29  
So is it accurate to say the key variables affecting splitter speed are high GPM working a small diameter (yet adequate strength) cylinder?

Everything else - engine size, pump size, plumbing size, fluid reservoir, valves, heat dissipation, welds and fitment either enhance or restrict that objective - but high GPM is key.

Ergonomics and build quality are important, though the objective is to boil down to what is most critical for a meaningful comparison between Splitter A and Splitter B...beyond color scheme and tire size!
Yes GPM to cylinder size matter. But when your 5in cyl with 4 way cycles 2sec slower than with a 4in and 2way wedge it's doing nearly 2x the work.. the work being split wood. Theres actually a calculator for splitter cycle time online I used years ago to figure out the specs for the one I built.
 
   / Question to the firewood gurus #30  
That was my plan, when I upgraded the pump from 16 GPM to 19 GPM. But it was winter, and I had wood to split, so I figured I'd give it a try and see how hot it ran.

The gauge on my tank shows the fluid never really creeping up above 180F, which means I might see over 200F on a warmer day, but then again... I don't do long splitting sessions on hot days. So, between that and the challenges of mounting a cooler where it will never get damaged while towing or with wood flying, I've just not bothered with it yet.
Before I mount a cooler I would also do what you did and see how it ran. And before I mounted a cooler I would try to add capacity. Adding capacity isnt really that hard if you dont care if the splitter looks factory. Granted it is a bit difficult to add capacity to splitter with a hydraulic tank that's also an axle...not not impossible with a welder.
 
   / Question to the firewood gurus #31  
Before I mount a cooler I would also do what you did and see how it ran. And before I mounted a cooler I would try to add capacity. Adding capacity isnt really that hard if you dont care if the splitter looks factory. Granted it is a bit difficult to add capacity to splitter with a hydraulic tank that's also an axle...not not impossible with a welder.
Yeah, I was thinking the same. Not that hard to just cut one face off the tank and weld another box onto it. But not necessarily trusting myself to do a few hundred cumulative inches of airtight welding without a single pin hole, it might actually be a job that I just prep and tack myself, and then take to a pro for the final welds.
 
Last edited:
   / Question to the firewood gurus #32  
You tube is wrong. The releif valve pressure on mine is set at 2,000 psi
 
   / Question to the firewood gurus #33  
Yeah, I was thinking the same. Not that hard to just cut one face off the tank and weld another box onto it. But not necessarily trusting myself to do a few hundred cumulative inches of airtight welding without a single pin hole, it might actually be a job that I just prep and tack myself, and then take to a pro for the final welds.
Nothing says the additional tank has to be attached to the original. If you feel compelled to add storage capacity you could add a new tank in series to the existing tank using hydraulic lines and fittings.

I'm not quite sure why you are so focused on getting a relatively small improvement in cycle time. When I split it is extremely rare for the piston to still be retracting when I am getting the log re-positioned for the next split. I do tend to split larger logs so maybe it takes longer to position than what you are splitting.
 
  • Good Post
Reactions: JJT
   / Question to the firewood gurus #34  
Manufacturers usually rate things at best scenario with things being at MSL, oil temperature just perfect and everything new. Sometimes things a are rated to make it sound better to the public for an agenda. Prime example is EV. Distances with 100% charge one person level ground, perfect temperature then charge time from at or above 10% to 80%. Plus they recommend to stay within those parameters so now you really have a 70% distance with one person flat ground perfect temperature as normal use. Maybe.
 
   / Question to the firewood gurus #35  
Nothing says the additional tank has to be attached to the original. If you feel compelled to add storage capacity you could add a new tank in series to the existing tank using hydraulic lines and fittings.
Good point. And actually, separate tanks would have better cooling, due to larger surface to volume ratio. Thanks!

I'm not quite sure why you are so focused on getting a relatively small improvement in cycle time.
Relatively small? I cut it in half! :ROFLMAO:

As to the "why", I find standing next to a splitter waiting for that cylinder to cycle, even a small fraction of the total stroke length, about as frustrating as willing grass to grow before my eyes. I just don't have the time to wait on a slow splitter, given the amount of wood I'm trying to process in just a few Saturdays each year.

On amount of wood: My peak production for personal use was three years in a row at 14 full cords per year, 2011 - 2014, as I was burning 10+ each year and trying to work ahead to build a fresh 3-year stockpile after moving house, so it could be properly dried before I burn it. Then we had two other years when I did not get to split at all due to either weather or other house projects, and each of those was followed by a year or two back at the 15+ cord level.

You try splitting that much wood, and then tell you don't care about splitter speed! :p

When I split it is extremely rare for the piston to still be retracting when I am getting the log re-positioned for the next split. I do tend to split larger logs so maybe it takes longer to position than what you are splitting.
Yeah, it definitely varies. Weather calamities (hurricanes, tornados) and the place from which I'm harvesting each year dictate the dominant species I get, with me doing nearly all oak for many years, then two years of almost entirely hickory, and now lots of ash due to EAB. As soon as I get used to one wood that pops apart easily with partial strokes, I'm back into full years of another that requires a nearly-full stroke on every split.

So while the actual savings is less on those rounds that can be short-stroked (e.g. black walnut, ash), I'm not so lucky to consistently get those woods. In 45 years of splitting wood every year, starting from when I was just helping dad, and now averaging 10 cords per year on my own, I've probably seen and worked with nearly every type of firewood that's predominant around our area.
 
   / Question to the firewood gurus #36  
A few figures for hydraulics as it relates to log splitters.
1. smaller cylinder = faster speed, less force Larger cylinder = slower speed more force
2.Speed of cylinder is determined only by output of the pump. GPM
3. The pump does not make pressure, it only moves oil, the resistence of the load "makes" the pressure.
4. Most splitters use a two stage pump which has more speed (Higher GPM) at low pressure, but slows (less GPM) at a preset higher pressure.
5. A single stage high GPM pump requires a large engine without stalling. A two stage pump allows a smaller engine to be used.
6. There is some way to relieve the maximum pressure the pump can produce, if not a line, the cylinder or the pump would blow. The higher the pressure the more chances of leaks.
7. A control valve usually does not fail, the pump will wear from use or dirt passing thru it, they can also fail due to internal seals, a two stage pump can fail to "kick down" or speedup when lightly loaded. the cylinder has internal seals that can bypass oil past the piston, reducing speed and force. Low pressure can be caused by 1 a bad pump, 2 relief valve setting, 3 the internal seals (piston) leaking. Note Internal cylinder seals leaking will NOT be visible. Putting an ear or pipe on the cylinder and listening you will hear a hissing sound.
8. A larger pump GPM will NOT increase the force, but WILL increase the speed the cylinder moves and may require a larger engine.
9 Log splitter usually hold a large amount of oil will not overheat the oil which if left original requires no cooler to be added.
10. A log splitter hydraulics is very simple system. If you think not try some industrial or farm equipment systems.
 

Marketplace Items

2016 JOHN DEERE 135G (A58214)
2016 JOHN DEERE...
2016 FORD F-350 XL SUPER DUTY EXT CAB TRUCK (A59823)
2016 FORD F-350 XL...
KBH Tender (A61307)
KBH Tender (A61307)
2411 (A60432)
2411 (A60432)
2014 Kia Sedona Van (A59231)
2014 Kia Sedona...
2021 HYUNDAI HX220L EXCAVATOR (A60429)
2021 HYUNDAI...
 
Top