Question about zero turn transaxles

[mrmikey]

The lower end mower transmissions aren’t exactly known for their long lasting durability.

Yup, that's why I want to change the fluid in mine. Don't care how good a machine is, changing the fluid sure isn't going to hurt as all fluids break down eventually not to mention removing all the bits that have inevitably worn off.

 

[Yander]

I think gravely make great mowers for the money. I have had two of them one of them is still in operation with no flaws at all. My son use it to mow their grass. They Mow about two and a half acres of very rough ground.

That said, one of the transmissions was a hydrogear 3100 and the other one was a 2800.

I would sell it right now while it's a good time to sell a mower and trade up to one that at least has the 2800 transaxle.

If you're mowing a lot of grass and your budget will allow go up to the zt hd 60. That unit is considered light commercial and I can attest to its durability.

If your budget does not allow this I would follow as instructed above and keep the cooling fins clean. After about 300 hours pull them out and change the fluid.

 

[sendero]

Thanks to everyone that commented. I have done the research and yes, if you remove the transaxle from the mower you can change the fluid. There is no way around removing them. Removing them is quite a laborious task, and though I am retired and have infinite free time I'm not sure I would want to tackle that.

I have about 2 acres that I finish-mow. I tend to mow in 30-60 minute chunks as I get bored with it otherwise.

When I went to change the hydro oil I changed the engine oil first. There was quite a bit of caked on crap on the hydros. I scraped 95% of it off. At the end of the mowing season I will do it again.

I guess my strategy will be to drive it til it drops and hope for the best

 

[brokeasajoke]

As someone else posted, I buy based on engine and trans. Chances are you may be able to sell for what you have in it. I service my hydro gear units with Mobil 1 15-50.

 

[Lastkidpicked]

Though I am retired and have infinite free time I'm not sure I would want to tackle that.

I have about 2 acres that I finish-mow. I tend to mow in 30-60 minute chunks as I get bored with it otherwise.

Now to my question. How long (running hours) can I expect to get out of these units? Apparently they are used in several low-end "residential" mowers. I don' beat this thing to death, a typical mowing session would last less than an hour.

Sendero, I may have some good news for you, mathematically speaking.

Let's say your residential unit is engineered to last 1000 hours. With your good maintenance habits (I've seen your other posts and enjoy hearing what you have to say) you should get at least that out of an entry level Gravely.

And let's say you mow one hour per time, once per week, 26 weeks per year.

You will put on 26 hours per year. Let's round up to 30 because there are always reasons for a few more hours on equipment.

That means your machine should last 33 1/3 years.

You mentioned you are old enough to be retired. My sincere hope is that we will both be here in 33 years to be able to deal with those hydros at that time. . .

Or maybe our great grandkids will meet up and do it!

I'm serious about the math, and joshing with you about the rest. I hope you take it in the friendly spirit intended.

 

[Lastkidpicked]

As someone else posted, I buy based on engine and trans. Chances are you may be able to sell for what you have in it. I service my hydro gear units with Mobil 1 15-50.

And @brokeasajoke makes a good point.

If it bothers you, he is probably correct that you can sell it for what you have into it and buy a unit more serviceable.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

You think threading the aluminum case would be a problem? I would imagine the casting would be think enough to hold a fine thread bolt if a person didn't want to use a pipe thread. I'm also assuming there is already a fill port..that I would be leery of drilling and tapping as the crap would fall into the transmission.
You've got my curiosity piqued now, I'm going to have to dig the ole' rig out this weekend LOL.

I don't think that case will handle using a bolt. I'm sure you can tap it very easy. But I've seen problems arise when removing and installing the plug. It may work a few times. I like more long term fixes myself. I've worked around them a lot. Like I said, drill the top and add a reservoir so it runs completely filled.

 

[brokeasajoke]

I don't think that case will handle using a bolt. I'm sure you can tap it very easy. But I've seen problems arise when removing and installing the plug. It may work a few times. I like more long term fixes myself. I've worked around them a lot. Like I said, drill the top and add a reservoir so it runs completely filled.

I think my 3200's have pipe plugs in them but it may have been casted thicker for it. I remember the older Eaton transaxles. My first Ferris had them.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

I think my 3200's have pipe plugs in them but it may have been casted thicker for it. I remember the older Eaton transaxles. My first Ferris had them.

If it has a plug, it was cast for it. But if you drill a thin area and try to thread it, not so good. Really, them castings are thin, maybe 1/8" or 3/16" and that will not hold threads. He might be lucky and find an area cast for a plug that wasn't used.

 

[brokeasajoke]

Might could do one of those transmission pan drain plugs that is a plug inside the plug but that would require removing the side cover.

If it has a plug, it was cast for it. But if you drill a thin area and try to thread it, not so good. Really, them castings are thin, maybe 1/8" or 3/16" and that will not hold threads. He might be lucky and find an area cast for a plug that wasn't used.