I have a Kubota M7060. The hole in the drawbar is 1 1/4". However, I want to pull an old pickup bed that is a trailer as well as some other attachment. However, the hole in those tongues are smaller than 1 1/4". They are more in the 7/8" and 1" size. What is the proper way to attach the tongues to the drawbar so that there is no slack? My concern is elongating the hole in the drawbar due to slack.
Question about drawbar and pins for attachments
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CMV
Platinum Member
I would grab a piece of scrap steel and make a sleeve on the lathe.
You could find something 1.25" in diameter, drill a 7/8" hole and have a bushing.
Or put a trailer ball on the drawbar and a trailer hitch on the trailer.
If the coupler on the trailer is long enough you could drill the correct size hole in the drawbar in front of the hole that's already there.
If there's enough material open up the 7/8" hole to 1.25" with a silver & deming drill.
That's all that came to mind.
You could find something 1.25" in diameter, drill a 7/8" hole and have a bushing.
Or put a trailer ball on the drawbar and a trailer hitch on the trailer.
If the coupler on the trailer is long enough you could drill the correct size hole in the drawbar in front of the hole that's already there.
If there's enough material open up the 7/8" hole to 1.25" with a silver & deming drill.
That's all that came to mind.
CobyRupert
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Don't worry about it. :2cents:
AndyMA
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I do it all the time for over 20 years. No elongation
Andy
Andy
oosik
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I'm sure the OEM drawbar on your M7060 is the same as on my M6040. I've searched the local tractor dealerships and found bushings that will go in the 1 1/4 hole and allow the "stem" of my towing ball(s) to fit snugly. Just bush it down and tighten the ball - good and tight.
You say your old pickup bed trailer does not have a ball receiver on the end of the tongue. Well, they make gobs of varying types that either fit the existing hole or with proper bushings - will fit and can be tightened down. There are many "pintle type" receivers that will go on your drawbar and allow attachment of just about any type of tongue receiver.
Google - pintle hook receiver - as a starting point. You will be truly amazed at the variety.
I've towed my big 'ol Horst farm wagon around the property for seven years now. It has a simple bushing on the draw bar end and a grade 8 bolt plus Nylock nut holding it all together. The only thing that's tight on this arrangement is the Nylock nut on the bolt. Otherwise, it slops up/down and all around the place. On rough terrain you don't really want any of the attachment to be rock tight. Slop prevents binding, bending & breaking. Nothing has been damaged or worn in all this time. View attachment 584541 The receiver end on the Horst tongue is an ideal match for a bushed drawbar hole.
The bolt I use when pulling the wagon - Grade 8, around 8" long, 1" in diameter, Nylock nut. Just twist the nut onto the bolt enough so you know it can't loosen and drop off. NOTHING is "tight" on this arrangement. It's all loose as a goose.
You say your old pickup bed trailer does not have a ball receiver on the end of the tongue. Well, they make gobs of varying types that either fit the existing hole or with proper bushings - will fit and can be tightened down. There are many "pintle type" receivers that will go on your drawbar and allow attachment of just about any type of tongue receiver.
Google - pintle hook receiver - as a starting point. You will be truly amazed at the variety.
I've towed my big 'ol Horst farm wagon around the property for seven years now. It has a simple bushing on the draw bar end and a grade 8 bolt plus Nylock nut holding it all together. The only thing that's tight on this arrangement is the Nylock nut on the bolt. Otherwise, it slops up/down and all around the place. On rough terrain you don't really want any of the attachment to be rock tight. Slop prevents binding, bending & breaking. Nothing has been damaged or worn in all this time. View attachment 584541 The receiver end on the Horst tongue is an ideal match for a bushed drawbar hole.
The bolt I use when pulling the wagon - Grade 8, around 8" long, 1" in diameter, Nylock nut. Just twist the nut onto the bolt enough so you know it can't loosen and drop off. NOTHING is "tight" on this arrangement. It's all loose as a goose.
WranglerX
Super Member
Just put trailer tongue in place use pin that will fit draw bar.... Little sloppy but will work....
Trying to bush the tongue smaller will be exercise in futility unless you can weld bushing in place... Or drill one hole on either side of center hole (main) for larger pin, a couple of inch offset while towing (on the farm) is not going to hurt anything...
Dale
Trying to bush the tongue smaller will be exercise in futility unless you can weld bushing in place... Or drill one hole on either side of center hole (main) for larger pin, a couple of inch offset while towing (on the farm) is not going to hurt anything...
Dale
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A flanged type bushing that you can just drop in when you need it would work good. One example is a hardened drill bushing with a 1-1/4 od and a 7/8 id.
McMaster-Carr
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LouNY
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If the trailer is a clevis type hitch going over your tractor drawbar you do not want a tight fitting draw pin.
As your tractor goes across rough ground and tips a bit sideways and your trailer tips a bit the other way the looseness in
that pin hole is what allows that otherwise something else will have to bend or twist.
Yes, after many hundreds of hours draw bars will get elongated, thats what welders are made for, :dance1:
As your tractor goes across rough ground and tips a bit sideways and your trailer tips a bit the other way the looseness in
that pin hole is what allows that otherwise something else will have to bend or twist.
Yes, after many hundreds of hours draw bars will get elongated, thats what welders are made for, :dance1:
3Lfarms
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This right here. ^^^
Unless your trailer has some sort of universal to allow for up and down articulation, loose is better. Yes, it will bang around and make some noise, but that is better than breaking the trailer hitch.
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LOL...I had to Google Horst Hitch! I never knew there was a formal name for a clevis style hay wagon hitch but I learned something new today.
Find a pin to fit the "Horst Hitch" on your trailer. Center the trailer hitch over the M7060 drawbar hole. Insert pin through the assembly. I don't think the owners of Horst Header wagons use bushings on their pins.
Yeah, it's a little sloppy but it would take decades to cause any measurable elongation of the drawbar hole.
If you were pulling a chisel plow equipped with a "Horst Hitch" encountering heavy draft loads...it would still take decades to elongate the drawbar hole.
Your trying to make a Swiss watch out of a manure spreader.
Seriously...you are way overthinking this!
Find a pin to fit the "Horst Hitch" on your trailer. Center the trailer hitch over the M7060 drawbar hole. Insert pin through the assembly. I don't think the owners of Horst Header wagons use bushings on their pins.
Yeah, it's a little sloppy but it would take decades to cause any measurable elongation of the drawbar hole.
If you were pulling a chisel plow equipped with a "Horst Hitch" encountering heavy draft loads...it would still take decades to elongate the drawbar hole.
Your trying to make a Swiss watch out of a manure spreader.
Seriously...you are way overthinking this!
oosik
Epic Contributor
mcfarmall is spot on. The ONLY reason I have bushed my drawbar/Horst hitch is to cut down on the forward/back surges as I transport a heavy load. It can be rather unnerving. Otherwise - I could live to the age of Methuselah, drag heavy loads with my farm wagon every day and not expect any elongation of the hole in the drawbar or Horst hitch. The steel thickness is just too great for this to happen. And, if after decades of use it elongates slightly - so what. It will still be an exceeding strong hitch system.
Fellas,
Thanks for all of the information. I may be way overthinking this. I'm pretty **** about my equipment, especially something I've put this kind of money down on. To add, Purdue put out a great article on hitch safety which really opened my mind (see below). I should have also mentioned that my farm is really hilly on the front side and I'll be cutting wood in these areas. I plan on using the trailer to hold firewood going up and down these hills. Thanks again for the info.
https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ppp/ppp-94.pdf
Thanks for all of the information. I may be way overthinking this. I'm pretty **** about my equipment, especially something I've put this kind of money down on. To add, Purdue put out a great article on hitch safety which really opened my mind (see below). I should have also mentioned that my farm is really hilly on the front side and I'll be cutting wood in these areas. I plan on using the trailer to hold firewood going up and down these hills. Thanks again for the info.
https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ppp/ppp-94.pdf
ruffdog
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That was a good read. Through my life I have seen many of those funky farm drawbar connections. The pictures of failures were interesting.
LouNY
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Interesting article from Purdue.
I do wonder about some small bits of it.
They seemed to me to be stressing the absolute shear strength and while that is important,
years ago (a great many) one of the concerns about the high grade pins especially in the
3/4 inch and one inch which where the most common was the grade 8's had a higher strength
but they gave no warning of impending failure while a 5 would bend and let you know it was time for a new pin
when an 8 failed it broke with no previous warning.
Back in the 60's making draw pins was part of ag shop, for a while hex shaped hardened steel was popular
till we started seeing shear failures and then it was back to mild steel round stock.
That said for most of the tractors and equipment used and discussed here it may not be much of a factor.
One other thing the use of clips spring or cotter key to secure draw pins is an interesting subject.
If drawing thru tall grasses weeds and stubble it will remove them quite often, twisted #9 wire will not be
removed by it, often just running the wire in and making a long U with will be more secure then a clip. :2cents:
I do wonder about some small bits of it.
They seemed to me to be stressing the absolute shear strength and while that is important,
years ago (a great many) one of the concerns about the high grade pins especially in the
3/4 inch and one inch which where the most common was the grade 8's had a higher strength
but they gave no warning of impending failure while a 5 would bend and let you know it was time for a new pin
when an 8 failed it broke with no previous warning.
Back in the 60's making draw pins was part of ag shop, for a while hex shaped hardened steel was popular
till we started seeing shear failures and then it was back to mild steel round stock.
That said for most of the tractors and equipment used and discussed here it may not be much of a factor.
One other thing the use of clips spring or cotter key to secure draw pins is an interesting subject.
If drawing thru tall grasses weeds and stubble it will remove them quite often, twisted #9 wire will not be
removed by it, often just running the wire in and making a long U with will be more secure then a clip. :2cents:
mcfarmall
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Inode, please post pictures of your final solution to the original problem when you get everything settled. Would be interesting for all.
