IslandTractor said:I'll try to find some photos of a grapple/tree battle but it is actually easier to describe. For starters there is a lot of variation and unless you are taking out pretty much identially sized trees from the same area you will need to experiment a bit to find the most efficient method. It also depends a lot on what your loader capacity is. I have removed trees with my smaller Kioti CK20 very successfully but it often required different technique and more time than when I use the larger DK40se.
I almost always try to give the tree a little shove to begin with. That helps expose where the roots are and sometimes just knocks the tree over. If the roots are clear then I proceed to stick a tine or two of the grapple underneath and drive forward while lifting/curling the grapple. For softwood trees up to about 5 inches or so that is usually sufficient to rip them out of the ground. Sometimes it takes doing the same thing from a couple of angles and sometimes I'll push on the tree trunk while repositioning to see which way the tree wants to fall and to expose more roots. Same basic procedure with stumps.
It is very easy to pick up a log. Both ways work: either scoop and close the grapple or come down from the top with the grapple open then close and lift. Scooping is easy especially if you can push against a pile or other obstacle that keeps the log from moving. If you don't want the log to move then just come over the top. I've posted a couple photos of coming over the top to pick up a pile of debris.
The last two photos are just digging the grapple under a small tree and lifting it out. I don't recall but I probably used both the motion of the tractor and the lift of the loader to pop it out. Don't underestimate the "wedge" force generated by moving the tractor forward with the grapple under the tree.
bigballer said:thank you for the descriptions and photos, it makes it easier to envision how i would work my projects. i also have a backhoe so i am not sure i would be doing too much tree/stump digging with the grapple but would mostly be moving logs around, piling them up, picking up deadfall, brush, etc.. i mean i have been doing it so far without a grapple but it would make the cleanup go so much faster. i appreciate you posting this..
Redbug said:Hi Island...
I looked at the last pics you posted. Pretty neat. That's a Woods BH I presume? What does it weigh? I am pondering...
Iron Horse said:You welcome to look at the 3 photos of mine in my gallery .
That's how the flail mower leaves the site , one pass and your done . You would never go back to a slasher after owning one . I can mow 6' tall grass and sapplings and leave the paddock looking like that , with no winrows at all . Yes that is a 4in1 bucket , its very handy but i use the hydraulic grapple more . I come across all sorts of junk when im slashing , posts , rubble , car parts etc . I just drop the grapple over it and close the clamp and keep going , when i get to a convienient spot i pile it all up . Even though im expensive , once they have had me they wont have anyone else as i make their scrub look like park land . Where u at bloke ?alchemysa said:Great pics Iron Horse. And it looks so..er... green there!
Just kiddin' mate. Its a flamin' dustbowl here at the moment.
How'd you clear that lantana out so fast and get the ground so clean. Isn't that a 4 in 1 on the tractor?
Iron Horse said:T Where u at bloke ?
The one in the picture is a CABE , made in Italy . It weighs 770kg and is fairly well constructed although theres things that i would change . I went to all the trouble the other day of buying some Digital kitchen scales and grinding every hammer blade to the same weight only to have the unit vibrate . Then i realised that they dont go to that trouble , they simply bolt on the hammers from the parts bin and then balance the whole rotating assembly . The first flail mower i bought lasted 30 minutes . All the components had been powder coated at the factory and then assembled . Before i had a chance to retighten the bolts the paint on the rear roller mating surfaces chaffed away , the bolt fell out and the roller got tangled up with the cutters , a very expensive noise was the result . I sent photos to the factory and told them the paint should have been sanded off and they sent me a new mower no questions asked .GinNB said:Not to hijack a grapple thread but what brand of flail do you use? Best one I've used for heavy scrub is a Maschio. Well built and very large heavy blades (hockey stick or hammer knife versions available). With new blades it does a better job on small trees than a rotary and even the grass and small stuff looks much cleaner than after a big rotary.
jimmysisson said:If you look at JustCountry's photos you'll see what I consider a weakness with the Millonzi: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/attachments/96628d1204080625-purchasing-grapple-one-picture-079.jpg
those hairpin clips that hold the cylinder pivot pins. I don't think they'll last long in brush work. Millonzi is trying to improve the product with greasable pins, compared to the older pivot bolt style. I'll feel better with more secure clips, though. ...Jim
Iron Horse said:I have seen drought like that out west , my heart goes out to you . ... Ive seen the eyes of a farmer who had no choice but to let his 30,000 sheep die in the paddock as he could not afford the 30,000 22 bullets to put them down .
IslandTractor said:I agree they are a potential vulnerability. I had only one pull out once in two and a half years of intense brush work though so it is not a common problem. I temporarily replaced the missing hairpin clip with what I think is called a ring clip (the type that you need to twist or use special pliers to get over the end of the pin and it then sits in the groove all the way around the pin with no loop to get caught). I later replaced the ring type with a new hairpin clip though and have had no other trouble but in thinking about your post I may look for some more of those ring style clips. I think they would be a lot easier than drilling out the pin.