Purchased 3pt quick hitch.

[pmsmechanic]

I like to extend the top hook, grab the implement (Harley Rake) with the top and retract the top, at just the right height, pulling the two bottom attachments points perfectly into place.

I do this all the time with my hydraulic top link on my quick hitch. Sure makes hooking up the rototiller easier. Or anything for that matter.

 

[DieselBound]

My NX's extendable lower links have been great. My B7800's 3pt setup is about as awful as there can be: can not stabilize link arms; not extendable- I have to play Twister to get things hooked up. I had a QH but it didn't hook up to everything (not the box blade, which couldn't be modified- it is QH-like but not). I then went with Pats for a while but found that the ends would kind of twist and bind. I "solved" the B7800 issues, for the most part, by getting QH implements that I need only insert pins (rather than spreading and pushing the link arms on pins. I'd love to have a QH on the NX, but my RC is older and it would have to be extensively modified; other thing is that EricTheOracle has noted that a Cat2 QH ends up smashing the fenders on the NX (unless you're overly careful about raising the 3pt); a Cat1 just seems a little lite. Biggest plus on a QH is that your top link is docked all the time: I have to cable up my hydraulic top link on the NX; on the B7800 it just flops around.

And then there's connecting up PTO shafts... (QHs make this activity a little harder)

If I ever get a welder I'll be attacking my NX's RC so that I can utilize a QH (to spare me of messing with the top link all the time!)

 

[K5lwq]

All great points! I will check clearances carefully in the morning.

No hope getting a adjustable side link locally today so I will have to order one. I have decided to order hydraulic T&T from Fite Rite tomorrow. I am getting both side links made just to provide a little more flexibility. They probably won't get here till spring next year so I definitely am going to order a mechanical version to use till then.

I also am going to check out my other implements tomorrow to what needs changing to use with the QH.

 

[DieselBound]

I envy those with TnT! Perhaps one day I'll add a tilt: hasn't been a pressing need; but, as is often said, you don't know what you're missing until you've had something (it was like stepping up to the big leagues when I got the hydraulic top link for my new NX [having spent years messing with mechanical adjustments on my B7800, which is not real conducive for adding on rear hydraulics]).

 

[TheMan419]

I love love love my QH. I got the HF one. Thought for $100 (minus a 20% coupon and a free flashlight of course!) where can I go wrong. Even if it does not work where can you go wrong. Now I would not trade it for anything. If it does not last long due to HF quality I will put the money into buying a better one.

The top link hook on the thing needs to be re done. However I mainly use a bush hog and a tiller. So I am getting off the tractor to hook up the PTO. So I use the top link adapter.

It took the 30 minute job of hook up the tiller and made it a 5 minute job. Of course now there is less grease on my hands and less swearing, so not sure if that is a win or not.

I would mod the implement to make it work with the QH. If you mod the QH what do you do with the next purchase? If it does not fit the QH you cannot mod the QH to fit or it will not fit the original implement.

I also started to store my brush hog on some furniture dollies. That actually makes hooking up to the QH harder. If you don't hit the implement just right it now rolls away. When it was on the ground things would just kind of bang into place if you were a 1/4 inch off or whatever.

In any event the QH was the best $100 I ever spent. You will love it.

 

[K5lwq]

TheMan419,

This was a impulse purchase. If they didn't have it sitting right where I was standing, I would still be thinking about getting one and still be thinking about the T&T. Now I have to move forward. If the sun will come up, I can see what I got!

My plan is not to modify the hitch other than adding another adjustment to the tractor's 3pt.

Diesel,

I still have to add the remotes to my Kioti so I might not have the room either. It just so happens that I have a three spool valve that I just took off my loader because it blows over the relief when using the first spool and has no check valves. For remotes, I don't think it will bother me as much and I will put piloted load checks on the side links to correct the terrible internal leakage this valve has. Youli might make some good valves, but this ain't one!

I also have some stainless hard line left over from when I did the third function for the grapple. I am hoping that will help me keep the install tight enough to make everything fit.

 

[ovrszd]

My NX's extendable lower links have been great. My B7800's 3pt setup is about as awful as there can be: can not stabilize link arms; not extendable- I have to play Twister to get things hooked up. I had a QH but it didn't hook up to everything (not the box blade, which couldn't be modified- it is QH-like but not). I then went with Pats for a while but found that the ends would kind of twist and bind. I "solved" the B7800 issues, for the most part, by getting QH implements that I need only insert pins (rather than spreading and pushing the link arms on pins. I'd love to have a QH on the NX, but my RC is older and it would have to be extensively modified; other thing is that EricTheOracle has noted that a Cat2 QH ends up smashing the fenders on the NX (unless you're overly careful about raising the 3pt); a Cat1 just seems a little lite. Biggest plus on a QH is that your top link is docked all the time: I have to cable up my hydraulic top link on the NX; on the B7800 it just flops around.

And then there's connecting up PTO shafts... (QHs make this activity a little harder)

If I ever get a welder I'll be attacking my NX's RC so that I can utilize a QH (to spare me of messing with the top link all the time!)

Several years ago someone on here reported buying a pair of extendable lowers arms for a B2910 and putting them on their B7800. Memory says they were $300-ish.

 

[ovrszd]

All great points! I will check clearances carefully in the morning.

No hope getting a adjustable side link locally today so I will have to order one. I have decided to order hydraulic T&T from Fite Rite tomorrow. I am getting both side links made just to provide a little more flexibility. They probably won't get here till spring next year so I definitely am going to order a mechanical version to use till then.

I also am going to check out my other implements tomorrow to what needs changing to use with the QH.

When I added hydraulic right side link I moved the mechanical adjustable link to the left side. This increased the range of motion.

 

[K5lwq]

Still no luck on the finish mower. The adapter for the top link was longer than the one that was on the mower. Just for testing purpose I swapped them out. It will hook up but because the top hook is lower, when I raise the 3pt it just rolls out of the hook.

It will hook to the disk with no issue.

I still need to try my grader blade.

The shredder will work which surprised me as both it and finish mower are BushHog brand. I still have to get bushings for it and the other implements but here is a picture with it raised.

 

[bcp]

I don't see any flex in your arrangement.

Try this.

Bruce

 

[K5lwq]

Bcp,

The shredder pictured has slots instead of holes in that top bracket(number 3 in your diagram). The slot is about 2 to 3 inches long that allows for movement. I hope that is enough.:confused3:

 

[Fallon]

1,700lbs flail mower that offsets about a foot & a half to the right from what is in the photos. I often hang it all the way out & mow through woody brush that's pushing wrist size. My 1,300lbs Gannon box blade may put more load on things, but its generally straight on. My loader wont even lift the flail on a pallet. My cheap HF QH has held up to this just fine. I'm not sure I could really abuse a CAT 1 QH any harder. At 5,000lbs my L4060 havs as much traction as a 60hp L6060, which is a CAT2 machine.

My 2nd "quality" OEM valve on the other hand let's the sidelink leak down in under an hour. It takes a few hours, but it will say just the same without anything on the QH. Need to take it back to the dealer to try for a 3rd. Still have a couple years on the warranty though.

 

[TractorGuy]

Looks like your hitch came with the extended hook.

Here is the top link adapter you need for mowers. They have a longer one for a couple of bucks extra if you need it. I no longer remove my hook which forces the adatper to remain in the upward position. When not in use I just flop the adapter forward and leave it on.

 

[K5lwq]

Looks like your hitch came with the extended hook.

Here is the top link adapter you need for mowers. They have a longer one for a couple of bucks extra if you need it. I no longer remove my hook which forces the adatper to remain in the upward position. When not in use I just flop the adapter forward and leave it on.

View attachment 578267

JD,

I did not hook it up that way. Now I feel like a big old dummy! :laughing:

I kept thinking I should use the hook. I finally came up with a way that is working but I am going to try this now!

Here is what I did.

 

[K5lwq]

Yes, I think I like this better! The first way worked, but this will always stay attached and appears to have plenty of movement. Thank you JD!

 

[Wagtail]

Still no luck on the finish mower. The adapter for the top link was longer than the one that was on the mower. Just for testing purpose I swapped them out. It will hook up but because the top hook is lower, when I raise the 3pt it just rolls out of the hook.

It will hook to the disk with no issue.

I still need to try my grader blade.

The shredder will work which surprised me as both it and finish mower are BushHog brand. I still have to get bushings for it and the other implements but here is a picture with it raised.

I realise that you've solved your problem but here's how I got around the problem. I've got two implements that require a top link 'extender' (my ballast roller and the landscape rake) so I employed an 'equestrian' fix... a curb chain. In my case I used a chain for a fence-gate which goes from the top of the adaptor, under the QH hook, and onto the other side of the adaptor. It prevents (curbs) the adaptor from coming out of the hook when raising.

 

[ovrszd]

The pic Bruce posted is the correct method.

When using a QH the triangulated hitch points on the attaxhment should be fixed. This prevents accidental unhitching. The flexibilty for movement should be in the attachment bracing.

By modifying the top hook with free swinging brackets the whole purpose of the QH is defeated.

 

[WranglerX]

The pic Bruce posted is the correct method.

When using a QH the triangulated hitch points on the attaxhment should be fixed. This prevents accidental unhitching. The flexibilty for movement should be in the attachment bracing.

By modifying the top hook with free swinging brackets the whole purpose of the QH is defeated.

Bingo...

Just add a PATS linkage (or something similar) in place of center hook to maintain QH integrity if you need to "lock in" top hook...

Dale

 

[K5lwq]

Thanks everyone for your help!

Just ordered the T&T from FitRite. I did go ahead and ordered two hydraulic side links. By the time they arrive I probably will have forgotten I ordered them. It will be like Christmas again! :thumbsup:

 

[TractorGuy]

I don't see any flex in your arrangement.

Try this.


View attachment 578259


Bruce

The pic Bruce posted is the correct method.

When using a QH the triangulated hitch points on the attaxhment should be fixed. This prevents accidental unhitching. The flexibilty for movement should be in the attachment bracing.

By modifying the top hook with free swinging brackets the whole purpose of the QH is defeated.

I may have to give this a try. Should work on my finish mower.

My brush cutter has the slots for the top pin to float in instead of the pivoting arrangement.