Pulling shrubs/small trees

[RobJ]

Also your 4x4 pickup or even a 2wd pickup will probably pull harder if you have the room. Of course not near as fun.

 

[patrick_g]

I pulled about a dozen willows and clumps of willows in the back yard this morning before the haying crew were to arrive. I use a 3/8 chain with the narrow tight fitting hooks. Just 3-5 wraps around and then hook the end. Pull on the bottom turn of chain. Worked well each time but one and that attempt skinned all the bark off the little tree from near the ground to about 5 ft level.

Due to this link and the varioius comments, I tried an experiment. I wrapped the chain and did not hook the end to the chain part doing the pulling. Instead I just looped the end to be hooked around the other chain and hooked it back to itself (a sort of a slip knot.) Worked very well. Thanks to the poster who inspired this trial. I'm not sure I did what they said they did but at any rate, I ended up with an improved method that holds very well even with small diameter willows (with huge root systems.)

Along these same lines of removing shrubs, brush, or small trees: I adjusted the forks of my pallet forks as close as there were notches for adjustment. This left only about an inch or so space between adjacent fork edges. Then I treated the pallet forks like a spade. I was able to dig up several locust trees with ease. They have such large thorns that I don't like to go through the branches to get close enough to the trunk to wrap it properly to pull with chain and some of them were too big to just pull out with my sized tractor (40HP at PTO.)

Pat

 

[davidseaquist]

I like using a steel cable with a loop on each end. Put the cable around the shrub/tree put the loop through the other loop hook the loop onto your tractor and lift with loader or pull with clevis hook. Cable the diameter of 1/4" to 3/8" should work good. David

 

[daTeacha]

I use the cable method on multiflora roses when the ground is soft. I have also used a set of forks similar to manure forks or really long toothbar teeth that I made up and bolted to my bucket to stab under the offending plant and then curl and lift it out.

 

[MicroPilot]

+1

To hooking the chain back onto itself, or even easier is the slip hook.

 

[flyer]

Check out the Woods backhoes: I think the 6500/7500 fits on a subframe kit (#9285) for your 855.

Here's a link to their manuals, Backhoe Sub-Frame Mounting Kits Operator's Manuals.

The BH70-X/80-X include a manual thumb option, not sure if they'd fit on your 855, but you could call Woods and find out.

By the way ... how much do these Woods backhoes go for, along with the sub frame?

 

[MadDogDriver]

By the way ... how much do these Woods backhoes go for, along with the sub frame?

I just called my NH dealer, who is also a Woods dealer. He said Woods does have a "made to order" subframe kit #1016537 for either the Woods BH70-X or BH80-X on a JD 855/955. His price, installed including hose kit, was approx $7000 (BH70-X), $500 more for the 80-X and just under $800 for the manual thumb option. Of course, we're a few miles away from Ithaca, and your prices are probably different.

 

[flyer]

I just called my NH dealer, who is also a Woods dealer. He said Woods does have a "made to order" subframe kit #1016537 for either the Woods BH70-X or BH80-X on a JD 855/955. His price, installed including hose kit, was approx $7000 (BH70-X), $500 more for the 80-X and just under $800 for the manual thumb option. Of course, we're a few miles away from Ithaca, and your prices are probably different.

Thanks MadDog! I'll check it out locally, but that gives me an idea!

 

[CFHartman]

I had a post on the first page that has worked very well for me using the loop and the choker. Today I bought myself a hook like PAexcavator was talking about and tried it. The hook works as my loop and I put three wraqs of chain around the small tree. Then I lifted it with a bucket hook. It was only 1 1/4 dia. I replanted it hoping it will grow. I only broke the bark a little. The hook makes a very good choker and works better.
Charlie

 

[bx23barry]

I use a 3" strap. Less damage, tightens better, easier to haul around.

 

[N80]

For pines, I use the FEL. Wish I had a grapple or root rake but I don't. So, I wait for the ground to be a bit wet. I approach the tree in a very low gear and catch the tree with the bucket edge about 4-5' up. Then I push it over. If the ground is right, the root pops up and out as the tree goes over. (If the ground is not just right the tree will often snap at ground level making it a major pain to get the stump and tap root out.) Once the root has popped up some, I approach the base of the tree with the bucket at an angle so that it hooks under the roots. Then I curl the bucket as I drive forward and the whole thing pops out. This has worked on young pines up to 8" in diameter. For smaller ones, I just dig the bucket in right at the base and pop them up.

This method does not work very well for gums, oaks, maples, etc. Most of the time they will shear off or break leaving all of the roots still in the ground. So I just dig them up. Much more tedious and slow.

 

[patrick_g]

This method does not work very well for gums, oaks, maples, etc. Most of the time they will shear off or break leaving all of the roots still in the ground. So I just dig them up. Much more tedious and slow.

Eastern Red Cedar, Juniper really (juniperus virginii or something llike that) can also be removed by shoving on the trunk. Push too low and you just spin your wheels, push too high and the leverage can break the trunk, but if you push at the right height you may partially shove it over and the roots on the near side will be partly exposed. Digging at these vulnerable roots will make it easier to get the tree out.

With my Kubota L4610 (40 HP) I can get trees out up to about 8-10 inches in diameter. Moist soil helps but at some point it makes for less traction so the moisture assist is self limiting.

The cedar has no tap root and does have a relatively shallow root system.

Pat

 

[Varmintmist]

I prefer grab hooks on my chains, I dunno, just grew up that way. Both ends are the same.

Anyhoo... I run the chain around the tree twice and hook it on itself for pulling little ones out. For skidding bigger ones I make a slip loop.

 

[jeff9366]

If pulling out small trees, up to 2", by rolling the bucket, the smaller links of 1/4" chain will grip a small trunk much tighter than the larger links of 3/8" chain.

I keep an 8' length of 1/4" Grade 70 (AKA: transport chain) chain with a 1/4" Grade 70 slip hook on the tractor mostly for small trees.

Grade 70 chain is much stronger than common Grade 43 chain.....I only use 1/4" chain on small trees, so it may be over-capacity, but that is what I have.

I have 5/16" Ken's Bolt On Grab Hooks on the bucket and 1/4" chain locks into the 5/16" grab hook(s) securely.

Grade 70 X 1/4" chain can be somewhat hard to find. I bought mine on eBay. Eight foot length does not weigh much.

If you Google "1/4" Grade 70 chain" several venders that will sell by the foot pop up.

My Tractor Supply Store usually has 1/4" Grade 70 Slip Hooks and 1/4" Grade 70 Grab Hooks in inventory.....but not 1/4" Grade 70 chain. ( ?? )

 

[RPW]

For cedars and if using the tractor I push and also lift. It helps to roll the trees out. Now considering that over the Memorial Day weekend I cleared 38 acres of dense cedars I opted for an easier way. I rented a Deere 550 dozer. Was able to clear the entire property and level the road leading to it and dig a fairly large burn pit. Her in Central Texas my soil runs from deep black gumbo clay to rock. Couldn't have done it any more effiently. We're mulching the trunks/branches and will burn the root balls.

Good luck.

 

[catsron]

A few years back, after going thru the same hassles as you, I bought a 3/8" by 3' wire rope sling with an eye in each end. Then I just choke the sling around the stump and add my chain between the tractor and sling eye and pull. The wire rope bites right into the wood for a firm hold.

 

[jymbee]

Anyone have experience with this "grubber" gizmo? I've seen similar approaches from other companies as well.

Seems totally unnecessary for the larger stuff given you can do the same thing with a chain/rope/cable (they show their larger model here) but for that much smaller brush, it's hard (all but impossible in some cases) to get a chain or cable to grab:

 

[deezler]

^ The Brush grubber is legit. I bought the smallest one thinking I'd just use it with my garden tractor. Now I wish I had bought the bigger model ("extreme" or whatever). The only limits are the size of the jaws (how big a trunk you can grub) and the amount of tractor your pulling device has. Hardwoods with a big taproot can have even a large CUT spinning all 4 wheels.

But it works great. Rarely slips off the trunk of the bush / tree you are trying to pull. Works best in a 2 man team though, where you can have one guy stay on the tractor and one guy do all the fixturing and brush tossing.

 

[bcp]

I've tried the tractor and chain and the chain never fails to slip off and over the darn things, no matter how tight I get it ...

Get a piece of pipe, about 3-5 inches diameter and a foot or so long. Run your chain through the pipe, around the tree, through the pipe. Hook the chain to the tractor end of the pipe. Pull tree out.

Bruce

 

[eastexan]

Get a piece of pipe, about 3-5 inches diameter and a foot or so long. Run your chain through the pipe, around the tree, through the pipe. Hook the chain to the tractor end of the pipe. Pull tree out.

Bruce

I've used that setup a lot. It works very well.
I've never seen a 5" dia. pipe used before, though. It would break and pull through small stuff, I would think. Most of what I pull out is small multi-trunked brush and trees, only up to about 3" dia. I use a 5/16" grade 70 chain and a 2" pipe, and it will pull all my tractor can handle.