pto alignment

[gator]

Try this,
Take the shear pin (bolt) out of the PTO shaft at the spreader gearbox. Remove and collapse the PTO shaft and install on tractor. Extend shaft and slip back onto gear box shaft. Reach inside spreader and turn agitator or turn distributor disk to align shear pin hole, install pin and tighten, you're done in less than a minute.

 

[5030]

Here's the skinny on a PTO shaft:

If your PTO shaft is hydraulically controlled like the newer (2002) L-series Kubota's, you can't turn the shaft more than 1/4 turn. Same goes for large John Deere Ag tractors like the 4440. It's easier to muscle the pto shaft of the implement or jog the output shaft on the tractor to somewhat match up. then the 1/4 turn will allow you to mate the couplings. I use the jog method on our large Deere's. Most of the implements that we use like our 15' mower/conditioner would take Charles Atlas to turn the PTO shaft. On smaller stuff where you can turn the implement's PTO shaft more easily, it's quicker to muscle the shaft and apply the 1/4 turn for final alignment. Just a word of safety, I know of a few farmers that have gotten their coats, shirt sleeves, hair or fingers tied up in a PTO shaft. They ALL lost, the PTO shaft won. I'm careful, I still have all my fingers, for now. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Daryl
Forage Services, L.P.

 

[Trev]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( <font color="blue"> However, yesterday I struggled with it for 45 min., bent over in an awkward postion, engaging the pto, trying again, looking at it again, swearing, etc </font>

The solution I found was to install a PTO overrun clutch. While it is not nessasary on newer tractors, it prevents wear to the PTO breaks ( if your tractor has them ), and makes hooking the PTO up a snap.
)</font>

Ed, I have a confession to make. I actually bought an overrun clutch last fall after we all discussed it in some thread. Then I found my PTO shafts needed to be shortened, and then it got to be fall and time to think about snow plows more than PTO stuff.. and.. well.. I never did get around to learning how to shorten a PTO shaft! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

I'll learn it this summer!

 

[Egon]

Trev:
Hacksaw or recipricating saw or cut off saw or hot saw and it's all done.

Egon

 

[tractorhal]

Trev. When you shorten shaft cut equal amounts off each shaft. i.e. if it needs to be 3'' shorter cut 1.5'' off each shaft.

 

[thcri]

Wally,

I have never had luck removing a PTO at the implement end. It just seems like they are rusted there or banged up and not to moveable. If a person holds the PTO shaft verticle you can move the implement by turning it clockwise once the shaft is in a verticle position.

murph

 

[memenzel]

On a JD 955, there is a pto brake and whether the engine is running or stopped, the brake is engaged. With the engine off, you can move the pto engagement lever half way between on and off. This will disengage the brake and not engage the clutch. Then you wil be able to turn the pto shaft freely. Please only try this with the engine shut off and key removed so the lever cannot accidentally engage and start the pto turning. When running a pto implement, when disengaging if you do this slowly, you can feel where the clutch disengages and before the brake engages, that is the spot you are looking for. There is no detent or locking position at that point. When I had my 955, and didn't want the implement to stop quickly, I would move to that position and let coast to a stop, then move the lever to the off position. Hope this helps
Thanks

Mike

 

[joecdeere]

With my spreader, I just give the slinger disc a little turn with one hand and it will turn the back feed the shaft until it will line up. Same thing with my bush-hog, with my tiller however, I join the bar through the universal method. And again guys, please never, never, never, be between your tractor and ANY implement with the tractor running, even when hooking up, be to the side.It's just not the place to be when Murphy's Law happens ! Besides, we'd miss ya here!

 

[normde2001]

"if it needs to be 3'' shorter cut 1.5'' off each shaft."

Are you sure about that? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[Anonymous Poster]

You need to cut 3" off each part - if your pto already was pretty much all scrunched up already.

--->Paul

 

[Egon]

With PTO shaft apart but attached at the implement and tractor its not hard to determine the proper lenght by marking it in the fully raised and fully lowerd position.

Egon

 

[HayDR]

When cutting the PTO shaft there must be 6" min. of overlap in the tubes when they are extended or the HP capacity of the PTO will be reduced. Often Tiller MFG use a larger PTO size than would be normally needed because in some applications the MFG knows that the 6" rule will be violated so the use larger rated PTO's to compensate for this situation. Not all MFG do this so it good to contact your local dealer and get the proper advice for cutting the PTO for your situation.

 

[Justaplain]

Yep, I found that mid PTO. I had one on a cub for 8 years and never turned it on, so I never looked for it on the 35 /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif bcs

 

[tdenny]

Justaplain,

Glad to hear you have a mid-PTO - now you can probably select it and the rear PTO shaft will spin very easily. This works very well on a JD 955/855/755/655. I always do this with the engine OFF. No reason not to shut her down while working back there.

 

[5030]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Trev:
Hacksaw or recipricating saw or cut off saw or hot saw and it's all done.

Egon

)</font>

I'll go along with everything but the hot saw . Tractor PTO output shafts are all tempered to overcome shock and shear loads imposed by the implement attached to it. Using a "hot saw" or "gas axe" will change the metallurgical structure of the shaft and might cause premature failure. We heat treat in our shop and some types of "normalizing" can be done at temperatures as low as 350 degrees farenheit. changing the "temper" of a metal part takes a higher temperature, but lower than what an oxy-acetelyne cutting torch produces. Remember, when you use a cutting torch you are actually melting the steel and blowing it away with the oxygen.

Daryl
Forage Services, L.P.

 

[chrisjbell]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have to agree with Chris. Once in a while you will have to struggle. For instance: You will get where you can easily put an implement on or off in minutes. Then one day, without warning, you will have to struggle for about thirty minutes, accompanied by sweat, swearing, skinned knuckles, greasy shirt, ant bites, high blood pressure, a lost pin, and maybe a broken two x four. )</font>

Yup, that happens a lot. But it is always nice when you hit one of those times that you position the tractor just right and the implement seems to just attach itself /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif...