PT425 towing mode??

[Modrob]

My PT425 was borrowed, taken out in the woods, and some bad gas was put in it…long story short, I need to get it back home where I can dig into the non-start problem now. So…
I need to “tow” it—drag it up on a trailer. My manual says on way page that a “bypass hose” is to be hooked up between two fittings on the pump. (My wife as second owner has no such hose) And that a “tow valve” on the pump should be turned out two turns.
The book pictured valve doesn’t look like mine, as mine has the two fittings on the right side (as opposed to top side in book.) There is what looks a large hex nut on the same side back behind the two fittings.
Now, in this same book, under the “Service Instructions” it says to tow: “open tow valve on pump, move park brake handle to release, and move unit slowly…”

So…how can I move this safely? I had to drag it about ten feet today to get it back up on level ground, but all four tires slid easily on the wet, slick ground…

 

[2manyrocks]

By the time you do all that, could you drain out all of the gas, replace the fuel filter, clean the carb, and see if it will run on its own? I got some bad gas in my Terramite with the CH20 engine this year. That's what I did instead of trying to move it without power.

 

[m5040]

I would call Terry at Power Trac with your S/N. Other than that, most trams have a fitting or bolt in the center portion that looks "different". You back that off and it will bypass. I always want to try mine before an emergency and then mark it in red paint. Maybe someday.

 

[MossRoad]

I don't know what year yours is, mines a 2001 model year. Here's a link to a thread where I had to two mine, among other things. It shows where my bypass hose connects on my style pump. Your's may be different.

Dead battery, broken exhaust stud, tow ports, gas tanks, welding, carbs.... YIKES!

My 2001 model year PT425 battery died. The metal battery hold down strap wore through the case and that was that. As many of you know, on this iteration of PT425 layout, the muffler has to be removed to get the battery out. Four nuts on four studs.... three came off... one stud snapped very...

www.tractorbynet.com

As others said, best to call Terry at 1-800-THE-YARD tomorrow with serial number and get some advice.

 

[Modrob]

By the time you do all that, could you drain out all of the gas, replace the fuel filter, clean the carb, and see if it will run on its own? I got some bad gas in my Terramite with the CH20 engine this year. That's what I did instead of trying to move it without power.

Yes I did that already…I thought I did a pretty good job of thoroughly cleaning the carb, jets and such…but I think with the big change in colder temps have zapped the battery and there isn’t enough juice to get it to fire correctly. (This unit has always been temperamental in starting in cold weather)

 

[Modrob]

Went today and bought a new battery and had a bypass hose made up. Also called PowerTrac/Tazewell and talked with Andrew in shop. (He gave me some info but to be sure he said he’d have someone call me back in the morning and detail it better)
Loaded up tools and battery in our TW200 TrailWagon to head to the disabled 425, and blam! Shifter cable lets go! (I guess a good thing as minutes later a terrible gut cramp started, and that usual quick RUN to the toilet!)
Maybe better luck tomorrow…

 

[2manyrocks]

It might also be handy to have a portable jump starter pack with you in case you have to crank it a lot to try to get it running. AVAPOW Car Jump Starter, 4000A Peak Battery Jump Starter , 2023 Upgraded Powerful Portable Battery Booster Power Pack, 12V Auto Jump Box with LED Light, USB Quick Charge 3.0 Yellow - Walmart.com

If it won't start, an electric winch would be handy to get it on a trailer or at the very least, a come-a-long.

 

[Modrob]

It might also be handy to have a portable jump starter pack with you in case you have to crank it a lot to try to get it running. AVAPOW Car Jump Starter, 4000A Peak Battery Jump Starter , 2023 Upgraded Powerful Portable Battery Booster Power Pack, 12V Auto Jump Box with LED Light, USB Quick Charge 3.0 Yellow - Walmart.com

If it won't start, an electric winch would be handy to get it on a trailer or at the very least, a come-a-long.

That crossed my mind, and I wondered what might be a good unit. Thanks for the recommendation. I have a 12v winch sitting in a shed…hmmm…but I have an old-fashioned chain hoist that would probably be less hassle. Hoping I don’t need it…

 

[Modrob]

Andrew called me back this morning, and said after reviewing my serial number, my pump should have the tow valve on the underside of the pump, and a couple of turns on that should let me move it, if need be.
Later this morning I’ll first try the new battery and see if that does the trick. (And at some point today, get back to finding a method to solder on the cable end to the new shifter cable for the TrailWagon—various attempts last night ended poorly, so with some YouTube help maybe I’ll get lucky today)

 

[ponytug]

Andrew called me back this morning, and said after reviewing my serial number, my pump should have the tow valve on the underside of the pump, and a couple of turns on that should let me move it, if need be.
Later this morning I’ll first try the new battery and see if that does the trick. (And at some point today, get back to finding a method to solder on the cable end to the new shifter cable for the TrailWagon—various attempts last night ended poorly, so with some YouTube help maybe I’ll get lucky today)

Re the shifter cable: I never found solder to be a great repair, mainly because I could never get good adhesion to the cable (wrong flux?). I had better luck with crimping the old end on, or fabricating a replacement end. Then again, what seemed to work best for me was buying a new cable, so perhaps I'm not the best person to weigh in on this.

As far as getting your tractor running, I would be tempted to borrow a battery or two from other vehicles, and some jumper cables to make an extended battery pack. If you get the 425 running, getting the batteries back will be easy. One thing that I would consider doing is that I would check for spark before going much farther. When you do try to start it, if you have trouble getting it to catch, I would try some carburetor cleaner down the carburetor while cranking. Most engines will at least fire on carburetor cleaner.

FWIW: In my limited experience with bad gas is that it takes longer than I expected to get fresh gas into the carburetor. My few encounters with bad fuel have given me a great desire to never repeat the experience, so I go out of my way to buy fuel from better retailers, not store it for long, and treat every gallon that comes on the property with stabilizer.

All the best,

Peter

 

[2manyrocks]

Carb cleaner is not a bad idea to give it the extra margin of help to get re-started. You might have a gummed up carb anyway.

When I had trouble with my Terramite, I also replaced the spark plugs to be sure they weren't the source of the problem and were clean. And now that I think about it, I also replaced the fuel pump and poured some fresh gas in the carb. It started right back up.

 

[MossRoad]

Yes, pull the air cleaner, turn off the throttle and choke, give it a small shot of carb cleaner or starting fluid, give it a crank and it should at least pop if there's a spark.

 

[Modrob]

Thanks again guys for the support…
Yesterday—failure again.
New battery, didn’t make much difference in the cranking. Spark plugs didn’t look bad but I cleaned them up anyway. And, spraying a liberal amount of starting fluid hasn’t given it much help at all either. I cranked a little longer than usual, and it seemed like it wanted to try, but again nothing. At this point I’m still concerned that I don’t have enough cranking “speed” to get it to fire—many past times have shown that when I’d put the big battery charger boost on it, that would do the trick. (I don’t know if there’s anything to my theory it needs a certain level of spin/crank to get the electronics to function properly) I don’t have a portable booster (yet) but I could trailer my genset and haul it out there with my big charger and try that…but I did get my big trailer unloaded yesterday and it’s ready to go and try to pull the tractor onto it and get it home where it’s a little more “comfortable” to work on…whew!
I did check on the pump for the tow valve Andrew told me about yesterday, and I believe I found it—on the bottom of the pump, and at the front edge…
We shall see what today brings…

 

[Modrob]

Re the shifter cable: I never found solder to be a great repair, mainly because I could never get good adhesion to the cable (wrong flux?). I had better luck with crimping the old end on, or fabricating a replacement end. Then again, what seemed to work best for me was buying a new cable, so perhaps I'm not the best person to weigh in on this.

As far as getting your tractor running, I would be tempted to borrow a battery or two from other vehicles, and some jumper cables to make an extended battery pack. If you get the 425 running, getting the batteries back will be easy. One thing that I would consider doing is that I would check for spark before going much farther. When you do try to start it, if you have trouble getting it to catch, I would try some carburetor cleaner down the carburetor while cranking. Most engines will at least fire on carburetor cleaner.

FWIW: In my limited experience with bad gas is that it takes longer than I expected to get fresh gas into the carburetor. My few encounters with bad fuel have given me a great desire to never repeat the experience, so I go out of my way to buy fuel from better retailers, not store it for long, and treat every gallon that comes on the property with stabilizer.

All the best,

Peter

That shifter cable—arrrrggggg!! I have wasted so much time trying to make that work. I’ve tried solder, and low temp alum rod, which has made ugly messes and about the time I’d have it fairly close in shaping, the cable would pull out! (I hate there is nowhere close to get one and usually have to order online—I hate the waiting LOL)

 

[MossRoad]

I found that when I hooked up my bypass hoses, I could roll the unit pretty easily by hand.

I did take a ratcheting strap and slip it under the bucket and hooked the other end to the canopy, put the FEL in float, and ratcheted the bucket up off the ground a few inches. Otherwise it would have dragged/dug in when trying to roll it.

Once I did that, I was able to push it the 50ish feet to the garage very easily.

So you should know if you have your bypass valve open correctly or not. It should roll very easily.

Just don't open it on a hill without the wheels chocked.

 

[m5040]

That shifter cable—arrrrggggg!! I have wasted so much time trying to make that work. I’ve tried solder, and low temp alum rod, which has made ugly messes and about the time I’d have it fairly close in shaping, the cable would pull out! (I hate there is nowhere close to get one and usually have to order online—I hate the waiting LOL)

I don't really understand what your trying to do here, a pic might help. Did you ever try the cable clamps? Like a miniature heavy duty muffler clamp. You could either collapse the eyelet onto the cable, or clamp it along side. Just a thought.

 

[scotts562]

Have you checked the fuel line between the tank and the gas filter?

 

[2manyrocks]

Which engine do you have in your PT425? I understand there were using Robin engines at one point before switching to Kohler V twins.

 

[Modrob]

Have you checked the fuel line between the tank and the gas filter?

Yes. First ran it straight, then new hose and filter.

 

[Modrob]

Which engine do you have in your PT425? I understand there were using Robin engines at one point before switching to Kohler V twins.

Kohler v-twin