2001 PT425 Kohler CH25 Oil Leak - Pull The Engine

[2manyrocks]

If it were me, I'd rather buy a new engine if it came to it than have a heart attack shoveling snow.

 

[MossRoad]

If it were me, I'd rather buy a new engine if it came to it than have a heart attack shoveling snow.

I drive the tractor more because it's fun and saves time, but I can still do physically strenuous stuff and I'm thankful for that. I'll be 63 in a few weeks. Maybe things will change with time.

 

[2manyrocks]

Sitting on the couch not doing anything can cause a premature trip to the cemetary. I'm at the point where I have to decide what's good exercise and where to draw the line.

 

[MossRoad]

Sitting on the couch not doing anything can cause a premature trip to the cemetary. I'm at the point where I have to decide what's good exercise and where to draw the line.

I think the key is to stay active. Then small bursts of exertion won't hurt you.

We get so little snowfall anymore, that all I have to do is walk back and forth across the driveway pushing the shovel. When I get to the side, I just pull up the handle while kicking the back of the shovel knock the snow into the yard. Pretty much like going for a walk.

 

[toy]

Maybe best to find out first where the oil leak is and see what it would take to repair it.....


Just saying

Did you have someone to start the pt and watch to see where the oil is coming from before you pulled the engine? Is the leak like a weeping leak or is it spraying. If it is coming out of the tunnel, from the engine or from the pumps, or the oil tank? My 425 pt is a 2003 model and I have had to replace the hose for the quick attach, but I have noticed a few drops of oil on the floor between jobs. I think my hoses are weeping some but not bad enough to replace yet. If I ever see oil coming out of the tube going through the center section with the blue tube I plan on replacing them all at the same time . I will buy new hoses and fittings to connect the new hoses to the old hoses and pull in the new one as I pull out the old one. Last year I had to replace the fuel pump and the oil sensor. The fuel pump started leaking gas through the oil sensor and the gas went into the oil system and filled the oil pan up and it over flowed and pushed out what I first thought was oil but I could smell the gas and the dip stick was full to the top and you could smell the gas. Didn't cost much to fix , changed the engine oil changed oil filter and changed the fuel filter, it runs good now.

 

[MossRoad]

Finally got a few hours to put the engine on a cart, remove all the shrouds, find an incredible amount of oily dirt and debris packed in every crevice/fin possible, clean the heck out of it, figure out how to fire it up and had it run for about 5 minutes....

Found the oil leak!

Saw the drips here...


Looked up and it's coming from a gasket between the block and add-on oil cooler.


Pulled the filter, pulled the cooler.


This gasket is the culprit.

 

[MossRoad]

My engine cart.... hey, it works.

 

[MossRoad]

I have a very similar design Vanguard 35 hp engine in a Vermeer stump cutter and am very interested to hear where the engine oil leak was once you have located it?

The oil filter/oil cooler setup would be the first place I would take a look at, followed by oil pan & crank seals.


View attachment 831692

Winner winner chicken dinner!

 

[m5040]

Nice work.

 

[MossRoad]

Thanks.

Now to order a couple gaskets, clean out the rear tub, identify any badly cracked hoses, put the hydraulic pumps back on, drop the whole assembly back in, hook it all up and see what blows up next!

 

[m5040]

Then stop for lunch

 

[MossRoad]

 

[5030]

I dislike diesel.

Can't stand the smell of it if it gets on my clothes. And, I've never failed to get a gas engine to start in cold weather. The little CH25 Kohler has started as low as -15F with just a shot of starting fluid.

Diesels, on the other hand... I used to work with a lot of them when I worked at the airport back in the 70s and 80s. Gelled fuel was the biggest problem. All required pre-heating. All cost a lot more, etc.

Now it does not get as cold here as it used to, but I need it to start if it does. I don't want to have to treat fuel, pre-heat, etc.

When you think about a machine like the PT425, all it is is an engine spinning pumps. 25HP is 25HP, no matter what makes it. The pumps do not know. I'll lose traction and spin the tires way before the engine bogs down.

In my opinion... hahahahaha, I see no need for a diesel for my own uses.

For that matter, my first tractor was an IH2500b tractor loader. 8000# machine. 50PTO hp. Cab. Dedicated loader on the front and 3pt hitch on the rear. It was hydrostatic and had a gas engine.

Did I mention I dislike diesel?

Diesels are much more efficient and longer lasting as well and as far as fuel gelling in cold weather, a shot of Power Service silver label cures that issue no sweat. One thing to keep in mind is a diesel will be purring along, long after that gas motor is completely shot.

 

[MossRoad]

Diesels are much more efficient and longer lasting as well and as far as fuel gelling in cold weather, a shot of Power Service silver label cures that issue no sweat. One thing to keep in mind is a diesel will be purring along, long after that gas motor is completely shot.

And much more expensive, and too large to fit in the unit...

 

[boatmoter]

My 2001 PT425 developed an oil leak. About 1/2 a quart every 20 minutes. Can't seem to locate it, other than a pool of oil under the engine. So time to pull the engine, put it on a stand, clean it up, and run it to locate the leak.

Trying to avoid disconnecting hydraulic hoses.

Pulled the gas tank and fuel pump all on the bracket. Just 4 bolts and a hose clamp.
View attachment 831626

Pulled the muffler. 4 nuts. Didn't break the exhaust studs this time.
View attachment 831627

Pulled the battery.
View attachment 831628

Unmounted the hydroback assembly.
Disconnected the wiring harness and positive battery cable from the starter.

Disconnected the tram pump from the mount on the front.
View attachment 831629

Disconnected the PTO pumps from the engine on the rear.
View attachment 831630

Removed the 4 bolts that hold the engine mount to the bottom of the tub.
View attachment 831631

Started lifting the engine and found one (1) hydraulic hose that goes through the engine mount. Grr.
View attachment 831632

Pulled the right rear tire, cleaned the fitting, bagged it and pulled the hose.
View attachment 831633

Pulled the engine.
View attachment 831634 View attachment 831635

Took about an hour and a half. Overall, not too bad.
I'm going to get a cap/plug kit and pull the hoses off the pumps, reassemble everything after locating and repairing the oil leak, and put it all back in as one unit. That will be much easier.

I repaired an oil leak on a friends Xmark o-turn with a Kohler 26hp. it was the crank seal. another person replaced it twice, still leaked. I inspected it and kept cleaning and looking at the seal when it was seeping. it was leaking around the outside of the seal, I got a new one and put a light dab of silicone around it and installed, problem solved,fortunatly they also had a big forklift so we raised it up in the air & I removed the pto clutch then the seal. then put it back together

 

[MossRoad]

Got the oil cooler back on with the new gasket. Started putting engine shrouds back on.

Pulled the tram pump out of the engine tub. Marked all the hoses and pump ports with color-coded zip ties. Will mount that on the engine once the shrouds are all on.

Went to remove the PTO pumps from the tub. I'm out of fittings and caps of the correct size. So I ordered a second set of caps and plugs. Will arrive Wednesday.

Used some down time to clean out the tub. May paint it after the other pump is out. Lots of surface rust in there, although the leaking oil did a good job of slowing it!

 

[2manyrocks]

Getting new paint to stick might be a challenge.

 

[arto98607]

I repaired an oil leak on a friends Xmark o-turn with a Kohler 26hp. it was the crank seal. another person replaced it twice, still leaked. I inspected it and kept cleaning and looking at the seal when it was seeping. it was leaking around the outside of the seal, I got a new one and put a light dab of silicone around it and installed, problem solved,fortunatly they also had a big forklift so we raised it up in the air & I removed the pto clutch then the seal. then put it back together

Silicone works and many of us have used it on oil seals just like you did.

There is very good alternative which I am using often:

Locktite 515 Anerobic Gasket Maker

 

[ponytug]

Getting new paint to stick might be a challenge.

I think that Superclean degreaser is amazing at getting oil off. Of course it has lye in it, so eye and skin protection is a must.

Amazon.com

https://www.superclean.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/2016-SuperClean-Degreaser-SDS-v2.0.pdf

I like POR15 metal prep for bare metal preparation.

All the best,

Peter

 

[MossRoad]

Getting new paint to stick might be a challenge.

I'll power wash it, then wipe it down with something to get any oil off. Doesn't have to be pretty.