Pole barn posts

[JJT]

A concrete footer is definetely the way to go. Think about the load sitting on a few 6x6 posts without a footing.... My first choice for backfilling the posts would be crushed stone, then dirt. I agree - avoid concrete as a backfill material.

 

[SteveBenson]

I used 24" inch holes 4" deep and belled the holes out to about 30" on the bottom and added a couple of bags of cement. I put a piece of aluminum flashing under the 6x6 PT post to prevent any reaction with the cement. I backfilled w/ native soil but would have used stone dust if I had known about this back then.

BTW, stone dust was originally a by-product as said, but I guess the demand is so high now they manufacture it specifically to meet demand.

 

[pajoube]

Great information, thank you. Just now starting to research the pole barn issue and these threads have been great.
PJ

 

[pajoube]

Your note says 6x6 PT posts, do you not use the 20 to 30 foot poles for pole barns?
PJ

 

[SteveBenson]

My barn was only 34x48x10. I only needed 16' poles. What kind of barn are you building w/ 20 to 30 foot poles?

 

[JJT]

Sounds like a "telephone" pole barn...

 

[budman72]

My thought is that crushed (lime)stone is almost the same as concrete. Wouldn't it cause the same problems? Limestone is what we get here (Northern KY)

Bud

 

[Carl_NH]

I built a number of pole barns for commercial use in the late 70s for Agway. We used telephone poles for a 16' side wall sunk 4' into the ground and most times these were graded or filled sites. The process was stand up the pole, put a bag of sakrete in the hole (about 4-6") around the base then backfill with porus materials (stone dust, gravel etc) for drainage. If the posts are completely set in concrete they can't breath and will rot. With a base or collar of concrete this does a few things.

1. Pole barns have great torsional strength from wind shear, and sideways stress by the ground surrounding the pole.

2. The concrete/sakrete collar helps hold the thing in place while backfilling as well expands the surface area of the base of the pole to prevent twisting from wind or other forces.

One key is to have the corner poles (with braces) set the first day then set the intermediate poles with a guide line, then attach 2x6 PT top and bottom to hold the works in place.

As to a sloping area with the pole barn run corrugated drain lines outside the perimeter and under the bldg then out the other side.

Most contractors will build a good pole barn, but from what I have found out, the the pole barn is as expensive as stick build construction.

I have attached a back side photo of my 24x36 barn (stick built) with a 2nd floor, - no interior posts, - used 18" floor trusses, 12/12 pitch etc. Has two doors one you see on this wall then the other in the opposite gable end - allows you to drive in one side and out the other end.

Carl

 

[RobS]

Georgeous building Carl. It's a shame to call that a barn, I think the term "carriage house" is more fitting /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[pajoube]

Figuring 4 feet in the ground and then high enough for RV storage as well as tractor. When looking at others building pole barns, it seemed they would always have longer poles than needed and then would trim the tops for level.
PJ