Planning To Build a Shop/Garage, Insulation Question

[MossRoad]

Extended plate and beam wall system.
http://www.homeinnovation.com/~/med...Guide Extended Plate and Beam Wall System.pdf

 

[BLSXJ]

54" dry wall sheets???? up here they are all 48" wide and 8,10 or 12 feet long.

standard home construction up in Ontario is a plastic vapor barrier on the inside of the wall (between studs and drywall) and a tyvek house wrap type product on the outside.

It was explained to me as the plastic does not allow water vapor to travel through it from either side. but the house wrap allows water vapor to escape the wall cavity, but doesn't let vapor in (think one way valve).

 

[bcantell]

I used standard R19 fiberglass batts. 23" wide so they attach to the "inner" 2x4's and i split the outside with a knife to wrap around the "outer" 2X4's .

I built it with 9' walls and a 12' arched ceiling to accommodate a 10,000 lb lift (for the cars, bikes, etc.)

A 1.5 ton ductless mini split heat pump keeps the temp at 70 year round.

Nice! Smart design.

 

[Joe Malovich]

I'm building a house that's got R40 walls (true not effective) built with two layers of 2.5" reclaimed foamboard on the outside of the sheathing and a 2x4 wall dense packed with cellulose. read up on this: The Perfect Wall | Building Science Corporation for a good explanation of how this system works and it's advantages. Money you spend on insulation is money you don't spend on heating equipment and utilities to a certain extent.

 

[Milo]

How are you attaching siding through 5" of foam? Or are you laying up brick?

 

[Milo]

Extended plate and beam wall system.
http://www.homeinnovation.com/~/med...Guide Extended Plate and Beam Wall System.pdf

That extended plate wall you linked is just what I had in mind thanks!

Just met with a builder at a house he's finishing up. I really like his work so hopefully we can come to terms. I'll run the above past him, he already said he likes to use 2x6 and spray foam with that 7/16" exterior sheathing made by Advantec with taped seams, and 1/2" version for roof. They have used a lot of Hard siding and he still likes it but on this house he's finishing he used a rigid plastic interlocking siding called Celect by Royal which I was impressed with. Says overall cost is similar to Hardi but it eliminates painting and caulking. All the lap boards (ends and long sides) interlock creating a "floating panel" so to speak so it has to be installed exactly correct with the right expansion allowed.
Anyone ever use the stuff?

Royal Building Products

 

[Milo]

Re: Planning To Build a Shop/Garage, Insulation Question. Update

Her's the progress to date, pouring concrete Monday. Decided on ICFs for stem walls. I'm thinking the plastic should go down on the stone first with foam on top, correct?

 

[deezler]

Re: Planning To Build a Shop/Garage, Insulation Question. Update

Her's the progress to date, pouring concrete Monday. Decided on ICFs for stem walls. I'm thinking the plastic should go down on the stone first with foam on top, correct?

If you tape all the seams of the foam boards, technically you don't really even need plastic. But I put my plastic on top of my foam because it was easier to adjust for perfect grade/level going one board at a time (I did not tape the boards). It doesn't really matter. Just need to keep most of the ground water from ever having a chance to come upwards.

 

[Milo]

At this point I don't know what could be done to keep any potential water/moisture from getting up to the slab other than the plastic? We have drain pipe on the outside of the footer and lots of gravel there. Also 5-6" of compacted gravel for the slab to go on. Thinking if any water/moisture did get up through that it'd be better to stop it before it reached the foam.

And since the original topic pertained to insulation in addition to 2" foam board under and around the slab I decided to go with 6" walls then foaming them and the ceiling.

 

[deezler]

Thats exactly what the plastic is for, under the slab: keep the concrete isolated from ground moisture. XPS foam wont care about being damp all the time, though. I guess if I had the choice again, I'd put plastic underneath the foam too. But I was hand excavating the compacted sand under my slab to get each foam board to sit at the perfect grade for an economical slab (4-5" thick) with a pitch towards a center drain. If you plan a dead flat slab, and have a laser level, I'd get that rock perfect, and throw the plastic down first, for sure.

A spray foam ceiling and 2x6 walls full of foam will be a very well insulated building!