Pipe saddle

[Osu98]

Thank you in advance for any help with this.

I'm building some pipe fence and decided to use 4.5" pipe for the corners instead of running the 2 3/8" up and over for support. I figured it was about the same $$ and a lot safer than building fence 10' off the ground. If I'm thinking crazy please let me know.

What I'm looking for is a jig to saddle the 2 3/8" pipe to 4.5". I really thought it would be easy to find one but so far no luck. I have free handed it before but a pattern jig would be a lot easier.

 

[tmajor]

Not quite knowing the situation, the 1st thought that came to my mind, was a short piece of angle iron (saddle). It wouldn't have to contour the pipe radius.

 

[Budweiser John]

Google metal geek.com I believe you may find. Some pipe templates.

 

[Gary Fowler]

You could just hand cut/grind one to fit, then make a templet of the results from a piece of shoebox cardboard or if you have it available, gasket material. Might take less time than searching the internet for something.

4.5" pipe isn't very common, where did you get that from or is it just standard wall 4" that would be about 4.5" OD.

 

[triptester]

Instead of saddling the 2 3/8" O.D. pipe to the 4" by fish mouthing you could just drill a hole in the 4" with a hole-saw an insert the smaller pipe .

 

[EddieWalker]

Instead of saddling the 2 3/8" O.D. pipe to the 4" by fish mouthing you could just drill a hole in the 4" with a hole-saw an insert the smaller pipe .

Never thought of that before. This might change all my plans for when I get around to building my fence!!!!!

Who do you think makes the best hole saws for doing this?

 

[Osu98]

You could just hand cut/grind one to fit, then make a templet of the results from a piece of shoebox cardboard or if you have it available, gasket material. Might take less time than searching the internet for something.

4.5" pipe isn't very common, where did you get that from or is it just standard wall 4" that would be about 4.5" OD.

I've been buying it from the railroad yard in Stillwater Ok. I've never actually put a tape on it but they sell it as 4.5" but it could be 4"

 

[Osu98]

Never thought of that before. This might change all my plans for when I get around to building my fence!!!!!

Who do you think makes the best hole saws for doing this?

I'm curious about the saw also. Would have to be a heavy duty one to drill holes in the thick pipe all day

 

[farm boy00]

Going off of the whole saw idea. What if you did the hole with a torch or plasma cutter??

 

[flyerdan]

The Lenox brand hole saw stands up pretty good. I used them to cut copes in 2.375 for the ends of cantilever gates. It was a 1.875" hole saw and I had a modified drill press vice to hold the material. Used the pilot bit for a stop and cut (slowly and carefully) half a circle out of the end to make a perfect weld joint.
If the 4.5" pipe isn't in the ground yet I'd try a similar setup with a hole saw sized for the top rail, once you get everything dialed in for the first one the rest go pretty fast.

 

[Steave]

Never thought of that before. This might change all my plans for when I get around to building my fence!!!!!

Who do you think makes the best hole saws for doing this?

I use Blu-Mold brand. They are a standard bimetal holesaw and gives me the best for my money. Not the most expensive by a long shot but it's the one for getting your money's worth. HD used to carry that brand but not anymore at least not in my area. I order them online.

Lennox is also a inexpensive brand that last a lot of cutting. I put a little cutting oil on as I go. A squirt here and there makes a difference.

Now I'm old school and haven't used one of the carbide teeth hole saws kinda like the ones used in a mill, they now make them for portable drill use so can't comment on them. Now back to the saddle making. When I first read this post I thought the OP was trying to bend a saddle, a term used in electrical conduit, and couldn't think of anything you could use for a pattern or jig. I get it now what he's trying to do.

 

[prichard]

When I first read this post I thought the OP was trying to bend a saddle, a term used in electrical conduit, and couldn't think of anything you could use for a pattern or jig. I get it now what he's trying to do.

I was right there with you...

 

[Steave]

I was right there with you...

It sure would be hard to write down the info for bending a saddle. It would be like telling someone how to tie a shoe over the telephone.

 

[mab53]

This book, is very useful for pipe layout.

Pipe Template Layout by Thomas W. Frankland

Mike

 

[STx]

I have one of these and am VERY happy with it - JD Squared, Inc. - Notchmaster. You'd notch the 2 3/8 to match the 4" pipe.

The regular old Milwaukee bi-metal hole saws work just fine with this. Go slow and use lot's of coolant and they'll last about forever. I've cut about 200 notches with the one I have and am still on the original hole saw.

 

[EddieWalker]

I have one of these and am VERY happy with it - JD Squared, Inc. - Notchmaster. You'd notch the 2 3/8 to match the 4" pipe.

The regular old Milwaukee bi-metal hole saws work just fine with this. Go slow and use lot's of coolant and they'll last about forever. I've cut about 200 notches with the one I have and am still on the original hole saw.

Thank you, this looks like something I need to buy!!!!

 

[the old grind]

Best to avoid 'carbide-tipped' with a hand-held drill. Mill or rigid drill press to maintain alignment lest carbides (tips) fracture at the slightest wobble.

For a big enough job I agree that a 'notcher' could be worth buying, could pay for itself in time/effort saved as well as o/worked cutting tools. (Blu-Mol, Lenox best/$ IMO)

btw, Don't use lube oils for 'cutting' metal. On a molecular level they fight an edge's ability to bite into metal. Actually, a water 'trickle' is better than motor oil for drilling, sawing, esp with steel that work-hardens (bed frame, etc) and demands the most cooling to prevent that 'in the cut'. Rendered pork fat is still king for such uses, is a given for threading/tapping and wont stain 'yellow' metals or alum like 'black oil' (sulphurated, for iron/steel only). Peanut oil works ok too (was mandated in our shop vs 'chemicals') but keep your machine(s) clean or the smell might bother you, as the dregs can turn rancid with age.

 

[STx]

I've been using this for coolant - LUBE-CUT 1751 Heavy Duty Cutting Oil, 2 oz. Aerosol: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific. I like it because it foams when I spray it so it tends to stick pretty well. You're correct that water would be best, a lot of people think of the cutting oil as a lubricant and it isn't, it's meant to keep the work cool so that you don't harden the steel or wear out the bit. I don't have the sort of setup that could use water without causing all sorts of corrosion problems though.

Liberal use of coolant will make even the cheapest bit last a lot longer than you think it should. I used a 3/8" cheap, no-name drill bit to drill 200 holes in 1/4" flat bar in my drill press. By keeping the coolant on it, I was able to do it all with the single bit and it's still cutting. I haven't even had to dress up the cutting edge yet.

 

[BHD]

Instead of saddling the 2 3/8" O.D. pipe to the 4" by fish mouthing you could just drill a hole in the 4" with a hole-saw an insert the smaller pipe .

on some of the steel pipe I have been using for fence posts, to put holes in them that are reasonable neat,
I made a template out of steel that will guide my torch (hole is bigger than the hole wanted by the distance from the oxygen hole to the out side of the cutting tip), and I attached some magnets to the template so it will hole on the pipe with out clamps or have to hold it, one could do the same but larger for the 2 3/8" pipe into the 4" pipe,

got the idea from this site, Plasma Stencil - new plasma circle cutting guide - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

one could modify these guides for th e profile one wants, Shur-Kut

template only not a cutting guide, Total Cut Pipe Guide :: Welding Supplies from Cross Texas Supply (sold many places), I like them as they make finding the opposite side easy for gate bolts, etc,

 

[Western]

You can use a small 1" band of the 4.5" and use the actual pipe band as a guide. just lay the 4.5 over the edge of the 2-3/8 where you want it, mark and cut. Wont be much arch between the 2 anyway.