Pillowblock Bearing question

   / Pillowblock Bearing question #1  

woodlandfarms

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Jul 31, 2006
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Los Angeles / SW Washington
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PowerTrac 1850, Kubota RTV x900
I am working on this whacky idea. It is on paper only at the moment....

Here is the question. Can a pillowblock bearing be put on its side and operate safely. the idea I have involves a shaft that is rotating horizontally with some (100lbs) of weight on it, then tilts vertically, onto its side...

Any thoughts?
 
   / Pillowblock Bearing question #2  
I'd find out from the manufacturer. Some pillow blocks are designed for significant thrust loads, some aren't. Any decent bearing should have specs available. 100 lbs. isn't a real lot, depending on the size of the bearing. Building your own Tilt-A-Whirl?
 
   / Pillowblock Bearing question #3  
Depends on the speed of rotation as well. If that 100 lbs was rotating at 3000 rpm and then the assembly was tilted quikly- there would be lots of gyroscopic force involved and significantly more bearing stress.

For 100 lbs, I am thinking that you need at least a 1'' shaft/bearing if its going to do over 100 rpms.
 
   / Pillowblock Bearing question #4  
I'd say yes, but it'd depend on the length of the shaft you have the 100lbs on, the size of the shaft, the rpm of the shaft, and how fast you want to elevate it. Also, most pillowblocks allow the bearing to pivot in the block, so if you want to rotate the block and have the shaft follow the block then you'll need two pillowblocks on the shaft and rotate the plate they're mounted to. Do you just want to use the amount of play that's available in the block? I mean by mounting the block solid and tilting the shaft (and bearing) a bit? Even if you use two blocks and rotate the plate from horizontal to vertical, the entire 100lbs on the shaft with be suspended on the 4 set screws (two per block), so you have to take that into account if the shaft is belt/chain-driven as well as the side loads on the pillowblock bearings. If it's not belt or chain driven, then the vertical load on the set screws will be shared with however the shaft is mounted on the motor. In other words, it's not just the sideloads on the pillowblock bearings you have to worry about. Care to share more details of what you're trying to do?
 
   / Pillowblock Bearing question
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I have a PT, so think of it as a Bobcat type of tractor....

I am mulling over making my own stump grinder. One that has a few tricks up its sleeve. My tractor is all hydraulic. I am planning on a 300 to 500 rpm motor direct driving the grinder head.

The tricks would be that the head could be rotated (manually, by removing bolts) in 3 different directions. Forward, like a normal chipper, sideways like this chipper Stump Grinders/Stump Cutters, and horizontaly with the motor on top. This would serve as a brush cutter, small stump grinder.

The disc would be around 24" of 1/2" steel and cutting teeth. I really guessed on the weight issue.

Initially my design was to have this wheel attached and supported only by the motor, but the more I studied other designs it began to look to me like that it would be a lot of stress on the motor...

Again, I am about 3 months away from even thinking of trying this project...
 
   / Pillowblock Bearing question #6  
Pillow blocks come in several designs and how much laterial load they can support will depend upon the design and how the shaft is retained on the bearing.

Many pillow block bearing housings take std ball bearings with a spherical OD. Also common is the shaft is locked to the shaft with a rotating collar held in place by a set screw.

For a stump grinder there will be applied side loads so you need a design that can handle larger loads than just the weight.

Bearing capacity will depend upon bearing size and design. Some BB's are designed to handle higher side loads and the typ BB (see pics). I'm also thinking it is going to take better support than a twist lock collar with a set screw to handle the side loads.
 

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   / Pillowblock Bearing question #7  
.

They won't last very long. There will be a lot of shock loading.

You need angular roller brgs as in the disk brake rotors in a car.

.
 
   / Pillowblock Bearing question
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Cool.. Now I see what you are talking about.

Of course today I saw a dead grinder. Motor was conked but the hydraulics solid. May be a $400 purchase and just rig it to the PT...

But, keep the ideas coming. I am not the only one hunting on craigslist.
 
   / Pillowblock Bearing question #9  
Just buy a brush hog gearbox and utilize the output shaft to mount your blade, input to the hydro motor, and support from flange.
 
   / Pillowblock Bearing question
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Highbeam said:
Just buy a brush hog gearbox and utilize the output shaft to mount your blade, input to the hydro motor, and support from flange.


OK. This is an excellent idea I have been mulling over. My only question is why do I need the gearbox? Isn't it just an added expense when I can get a hydraulic motor to go at any speed I want?

I hope this does not come off strongly, not my intent. I am just trying to take in your idea (or actual result?) and fold it into my plan.

Gearboxes I have seen are fairly expensive. Any sources you might recommend?
 
   / Pillowblock Bearing question #11  
Woodlandfarms:

Some random (as will become obvious) thoughts about your project.

There may not be a hydraulic motor that will tolerate the radial loads and turn fast enough for your needs. Char Lynn and others make 5.0 cu in/rev and larger motors with tapered roller bearings that will tolerate 5,000# or so of radial load, typically at a point about 1" from the motor face. But that translates into about 5,000 in# of torque perpendicular to the shaft. A 40", for example, diameter disk on the shaft will place 5,000 in# on the shaft if a 250# load is placed on one edge of the disk. That could easily occur if the disk were dropped on a stump such that the edge of the disk supported the weight of the entire mechanism.

And even if these motors would tolerate the side load (to say nothing of the shock loads), I don't think there are any smaller than about 5 cu in/rev. For example, 10 gpm of hydraulic flow will only turn 5 cu in/rev motor about 500 rpm.

Most brush cutters turn about 1,000 rpm, so you would need 20gpm of flow to get the motor to 1,000 rpm (which is probably about its maximum rated speed).

The direct drive brush cutters I have seen use a specially built spindle housing that holds the spindle with tapered roller bearings, and the hydraulic motor bolts onto the housing with its shaft connected to the spindle with a solid coupling.

If you need a motor less than 5 gpm to get the rpm's you need, none of those motors that I am aware of tolerate more that a few hundred inch pounds of torque perpendicular to the shaft. Therefore, you would certainly need to have a spindle housing and spindle made to use such a motor.

I did something similar and used a Bush Hog Squealer 40 hp gearbox with a roughly 2:1 ratio, a 4.9 cu in Char Lynn tapered roller bearing motor, and a Prince 11 gpm pto pump. The motor turns the gearbox input shaft at about the same 540 rpm as the PTO did, and the output shaft turns the same roughly 1,000 rpm as it did when directly driven from the pto. And the gearbox output shaft is equipped to tolerate the shock and side loads inherent in brush cutting.

Most of the brush cutter gearboxes use a standard Society of Agricultural engineers tapered spline output shaft (there are two or three different standard sizes) and hubs to fit those shafts are available so that you can weld your disk to the hub. The gearbox solves your shaft load problem and your rpm problem for between $150-$200.
 
   / Pillowblock Bearing question
  • Thread Starter
#12  
All great info... THank you very much. I might have found a much cheaper solution to my troubles... Someone has a dead grinder (a walk behind 2 wheeled ugly but it works except the engine) stump grinder.

I may just pick this up, cut off the engine portion and slap in a hydraulic motor

OH, The PT I have is 18GPM at 3000PSI...

Carl
 
   / Pillowblock Bearing question #13  
you can figure steel weight by knowing that one inch by 1ft by 1ft is 40 lbs
 

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