One Tractor To Do It All?

[2manyrocks]

I'd keep the Ferris mower, but add a tractor. You could mow the bigger part of your land with the tractor, but still use the Ferris for mowing the tighter spaces. That to me would be a win, win.

 

[EddieWalker]

.. I can still average better than 2 acres per hour. On the more-open spaces, it’s easily 3-4 acres per hour. And those torquey little zero-turns at 11 mph feel like a rally car when zigging and zagging around obstacles, pure racing enjoyment.

That's very impressive!!!! With all my obstacles, I'm lucky to mow an acre in an hour. And I'll never get anywhere close to 11 mph while mowing. That's just amazing.

Obviously in your case, the zero turn is the ideal machine for the job.

 

[WinterDeere]

That's very impressive!!!! With all my obstacles, I'm lucky to mow an acre in an hour. And I'll never get anywhere close to 11 mph while mowing. That's just amazing.

The guy who owned this property before me really did a good job of landscaping it in a way that optimized mowing time. I've added a lot more gardens, etc., but have continued to follow his lead when planning their layout.

11 mph is the top speed of my mower, in fact I think it's more like 10.6 mph, or something like that. I'm able to keep those levers full-forward against the hard stops for 150 - 500 feet at a time, before the quick K-turn and then blasting back the other direction, as I stripe off the whole property. I don't bother spinning around each tree anymore, as it only wastes a lot of time and turfs up the grass, instead I just hourglass around them, shaving it close on two sides, but leaving a small un-mowed area fore and aft of the tree. No worries, I change my striping orientation 90 degrees each time I mow, so I'll be shaving those un-mowed patches close the next time, and this causes a lot less inside tire turf damage than rounding the tree.

 

[JRH02]

It sure depends what 'all' means. I can't use the Kubota for what the 410j does and vv. And if I had to mow, I'd move.

 

[dodge man]

I do everything with my tractor but I’m mowing about two acres. I’m going to agree JD is priced high but not more so Kubota. If I were buying new right now I’d probably look at Kioti.

 

[RayIN]

A one tractor solution might be this one, but not for only 6 acres: Log into Facebook
"

Carraro TRX 9400 4wd tractor, 4 cyl Detroit turbodiesel with 500hrs​

$19,850 · In stock"

 

[Runner]

I am on 6 acres, hilly, rough and quite a few trees. I have always divided the property up into "pasture" and "lawn" areas (though I don't have any livestock). 600ft of gravel drive to maintain and move snow off of, lots of wood chipping and loader work. I used a 60" rotary cutter to mow the 4 acre "pasture" areas a couple of times per year and a 72" RFM (rear finish mower) for the 2 acres of lawn around the house.

The original goal was to have a compact tractor to "do it all" so I bought the JD 2520 with the aforementioned rotary cutter and RFM, but it never really worked out that way. I always needed a lawn tractor to "cut in" around the buildings and trees, which wound up taking more time than actually mowing with the tractor.

A year ago, after becoming frustrated with the whole process, I bought a ZTR to mow the 2 acres of lawn and this has worked out well (except for the rough ride).

That being said, if I were in your situation (assuming you actually want to finish-mow all 6 acres) I would use the ZTR for trimming around the house and tight areas and get a CUT with a big RFM to cover the rest of the area. You can make really good time with CUT and RFM in wide-open areas without getting beaten up buy the bumps. I think this also makes sense because you probably need the tractor for other tasks such as drive maintenance.

If you want to cut down on your mowing time, you might consider letting some of the property grow and just cut it a couple of times/year with a rotary cutter. The good thing about buying the tractor and keeping the ZTR is you can keep your options open if you find you like one way better than the other.

Another good reason to keep the ZTR is for a back up mower in case the tractor is down for some reason.

 

[WinterDeere]

I’m surprised to hear some say they go faster in wide open areas on a CUT versus a ZTR. I zoom around my yard at 10.6 mph on my ZTR with no trouble, but I feel like I’m going to break something or be launched clean out of the seat if I ever exceed 4 mph on the CUT on many parts of my lawn.

ZTR’s do jostle you around a bit, but they’re light and build to take that sort of abuse, 2000 hours at a time. Mowing at that speed on a CUT with loaded tires (got loader?) is a much more violent endeavor.

 

[Runner]

I’m surprised to hear some say they go faster in wide open areas on a CUT versus a ZTR.

At least regarding my post, I didn't say I could go faster, just that I could make really good time without getting beaten up by bumps. My tractor does ride much better than the ZTR.

 

[Notforhire]

Looking at the original post I see that the ZTR he has is a Ferris, w/suspension and suspension seat.
His mower rides much different than one with a rigid frame. You don't get beaten by the bumps.
My "lawn" is reclaimed pasture and I have back issues .

Mowing with my L47 is much harder on my back than using a Ferris ZTR.
I haven't priced a MMM attachment lately, but I suspect it would cost more than his current Ferris would bring, if he sold it.
The JD 5055e I had didn't ride too bad while bush hogging, but it had MUCH larger wheels and a longer wheelbase.

I would recommend keeping the Ferris and getting a tractor/loader for everything else. It works for me.

 

[WinterDeere]

I'll admit my ZTR bobs and weaves enough that I've learned to treat it like swimming, don't get on that ride within 20 minutes of eating, or you'll get a cramp. It is quite a core muscle exercise.

But I work long hours sitting at a desk all day and night, so getting out and exercising those core muscles for 90 minutes every 4th day is just what the doctor ordered, for me.

I would guess that if I had the self-control to drive my ZTR as slow as my CUT can reasonably do across a lawn (i.e. 4 mph), it'd be a much smoother ride. But I'm a g-force junkie, and just can't help but punching those levers full-forward coming out of each turn. It satisfies my inner child.

I'm probably also being unfair to the CUT, saying it can't do much more than 4 mph. That is indeed the speed I've noticed it starting to buck pretty badly offroad, but that's as it's typically configured with loader and rear ballast. If I removed that equipment to mow, given it's all weight extended out past the wheelbase, then I'm sure it could go a bit faster.

 

[Notforhire]

I'll admit my ZTR bobs and weaves enough that I've learned to treat it like swimming, don't get on that ride within 20 minutes of eating, or you'll get a cramp. It is quite a core muscle exercise.

But I work long hours sitting at a desk all day and night, so getting out and exercising those core muscles for 90 minutes every 4th day is just what the doctor ordered, for me.

I would guess that if I had the self-control to drive my ZTR as slow as my CUT can reasonably do across a lawn (i.e. 4 mph), it'd be a much smoother ride. But I'm a g-force junkie, and just can't help but punching those levers full-forward coming out of each turn. It satisfies my inner child.

I'm probably also being unfair to the CUT, saying it can't do much more than 4 mph. That is indeed the speed I've noticed it starting to buck pretty badly offroad, but that's as it's typically configured with loader and rear ballast. If I removed that equipment to mow, given it's all weight extended out past the wheelbase, then I'm sure it could go a bit faster.

Instead of a small cut how about a full size utility tractor with a rear mounted mower and a 60 inch or better Z with a suspension?
Bigger wheels make a big difference.

 

[WinterDeere]

Type and loading, as well. If you have only one machine, as the OP is aiming, then it’s going to have heavier 6-ply tires running closer to max pressure, and likely liquid ballast and/or wheel weights. That makes for an awful rough ride, compared to a CUT or UT with dedicated 4-ply turf tires, lower air pressure, and no liquid ballast.

 

[CoyPatton]

You might be surprised to find out that the orange premium you will pay is as big or bigger than the green one. Its been about 20 years since I needed a new compact tractor (something to be said for the dependability of the green ones), but back then a John Deere, with an American-made engine, was a little less than a comparable Kubota.

I think John Deere is offshoring all of the engines on their compacts now though. My 20 year old JD will likely last longer that I will, without any serious trouble. If I had to buy today, I’d take a good look at TYM or Kioti. Those might actually save you some money for comparable performance. I’m glad I bought mine back when the getting was good before the Tier IV days.

What subcompact or compact tractor did you buy 20 years ago from JD that had s US made engine.
The fact is that with the 600,700, 800, 900, 1000 & 1200 series subcompact and compact tractors—JD big entry into this market going back into the late 70’s and early 80’s were all built to JD specs by Yanmar of Japan including the engines. When JD stopped that partnership, they built the tractors that replaced these around Yanmar engines. To this time the 10, 20 & 30 series tractors still use Yanmar engines. I’m not sure about the 40 & 50 series tractors.

 

[BubbaSam]

I think John Deere is offshoring all of the engines on their compacts now though. My 20 year old JD will likely last longer that I will, without any serious trouble. If I had to buy today, I’d take a good look at TYM or Kioti. Those might actually save you some money for comparable performance. I’m glad I bought mine back when the getting was good before the Tier IV days.

I have a 2015 Kioti CK30 HST I bought new with a FEL and BH. Since then I have added with many additional pieces "addon" equipment. We have a small 13 acre farm that has had a LOT of work, and then some. Without a doubt I would call my tractor "My Best Friend". The only thing I don't use is my 3pt articulating blade, other than seasonal accessories like my 3pt tiller. I have had GREAT success with this tractor and would recommend the Kioti brand and the CK line. It's big enough, but not to big.

As far as the ORANGE lines, as someone mentioned, it has been said if you want a comfy tractor then buy a Kubota. If you want a workhorse, then buy a Kioti.

 

[TugHillDog]

Sounds like you are on the right track in terms of getting a tractor. A little food for thought in terms of zero turn vs tractor mounted belly mower....

I have roughly 4 acres of old, terraced farm land on top of an older clay ridge for a yard. While it does have trees they are very minimal. Unfortunately though, absolutely none of it is flat, smooth or level.

I mowed that yard for approximately 5 years with a 60" belly mower slung under a bx2360 before I finally got fed up and purchased a 60" zero turn. It may (likely is) different with a larger tractor but I got tired of being beaten up mowing the yard. Switching to a zero turn for mowing eliminated that frustration and cut my total mowing time in half at least. I'm able to maintain a good cut quality at a much faster rate with the zero turn.

It may be personal preference, but the other thing I found with having a belly mower on a tractor is that I really disliked leaving it mounted whenever I did any non-mowing work with the tractor.... which resulted in a 30 minute fight getting the mower off the tractor before doing dirt/brush moving work.

I would like to chime in here as well: using a tractor to mow is great for all the advantages listed, but it WILL increase mowing time. And to the point of this reply: a belly mower is a pain - both to get on/off (for reasons of being in the way) and also a sharp pain to clean. I would heartily endorse a 3pt finish mower instead.

 

[Gord Baker]

I would like some input on whether I am making a smart choice or not. I think one tractor to do my chores would be better than my current set up of mowing with a zero turn and snowplowing with an ATV. Basically, downsize from 2 machines to 1.

I mow 6 acres with a 61" zero turn mower (Ferris IS2100z with suspension and suspension seat).

I plow with an ATV with 54" snowplow (Suzuki King Quad 500).

Both do the job, but would a tractor be better suited?

I would get a compact tractor with a cab (heat and air conditioning) and a 72" belly mower. Being exposed to the elements is not exactly fun. My allergies are bad during mowing season and getting cold and wet during the plowing season is getting old quick.

The mowing area is not smooth, so mowing wide open throttle on the zero turn is not an option. So, the benefit of the zero turn being faster is not really a reality.

My acreage is wide open. No trees to maneuver. I even am considering a large 3 point attachment mower 10 ft wide or so, but I know that requires a larger tractor. I do not have the space to store (indoors) a large utility style, high HP farm tractor. Plus, I do not want such a heavy tractor to tear up the yard.

My driveway is 450 ft of gravel, so maintenance is periodically required. I have no way to perform the maintenance now and either have to borrow or rent equipment to do it. Or pay a contractor. It seems like a front end loader and box blade combination would be great to have.

I think the Kubota LX line of tractors might be a good fit for my needs. I am open to other brands/models. I do not believe in paying the John Deere green premium, so John Deere is not an option.

Has anyone went from multiple, job specific machines to a tractor that can do it all? Any regrets?

Thanks!

Choose your Kubota carefully and get the options you Need. 10' wide mower is not one of them. 6' at most. Keep your ATV and Zero turn until you are sure you don't need either.

 

[WinterDeere]

I’m not sure about the 40 & 50 series tractors.

IIRC, my 750 and 855 both had Yanmar 3-cyl diesel engines.

Never owned an x40.

 

[wolc123]

What subcompact or compact tractor did you buy 20 years ago from JD that had s US made engine.
The fact is that with the 600,700, 800, 900, 1000 & 1200 series subcompact and compact tractors—JD big entry into this market going back into the late 70’s and early 80’s were all built to JD specs by Yanmar of Japan including the engines. When JD stopped that partnership, they built the tractors that replaced these around Yanmar engines. To this time the 10, 20 & 30 series tractors still use Yanmar engines. I’m not sure about the 40 & 50 series tractors.

2005, 4120 with American made JD Powertech engine.

 

[airbiscuit]

I want your planter!