Older CK25Hst stop solenoid.

   / Older CK25Hst stop solenoid. #21  
I don't think pictures would show much, so I did a sketch instead. It's pretty simple. I did run the new wire inside a piece of wiring loom, and ziptied it in place to the existing wiring bundle. There is no need to cut the original wiring, just strip a piece of insulation and solder the new wire to it. It's been working great, except when I forget to push the button before trying to start.....

Sam



View attachment 3881783
This works when it's the "initial pull in" that isn't working correctly, if it is the "hold in" circuit that needs to be energized as long as the tractor is running.
 
   / Older CK25Hst stop solenoid.
  • Thread Starter
#22  
That's correct, this fixes a non-pull in. In my case the hold in circuit was still working fine, it just didn't pull in. If it's the hold in that doesn't work, you'd have to use a toggle switch to the other wire. flip the switch on to run, then flip it off to disengage the hold in.
 
   / Older CK25Hst stop solenoid. #23  
Looks straightforward so I'll give it a go once I've purchased the push button switch.
Thanks again, Sam
 
   / Older CK25Hst stop solenoid.
  • Thread Starter
#24  
You are more than welcome. I hope it works for you.
 
   / Older CK25Hst stop solenoid. #25  
Many systems tie the pull coil to the start circuit. Engaging the starter activates the pull coil. When the starter is released the hold coil takes over. You might consider that rather than adding a button.
Harry might have nailed it. You are correct, most cases there are two positive wires, one pull, and one hold. Therefore there is possibly two fuses and two relays. However, the pull power could be coming right from the starter solenoid. That solenoid will have one wire that activates it, and possibly a second wire that "goes downstream". On gas engines, they have their specific purpose, but on a diesel, the downstream wire could very be your pull wire.
 

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