Old locktite; remove or reuse?

[SteveV]

The dozen or so bolts holding the front frame to the engine block on the my 1200 (in pieces, see ford/nh owning) have locktite blue on them. The air wrench worked hard getting them out. Should I clean them up or just put them back in with some fresh blue? SteveV

 

[Bird]

Steve, I think you'd be OK to just put them back in with a little fresh loctite. I've even heard some say that the old dried loctite that's still on them helps to make them hold. So . . ., I really don't know what's best and hope someone can tell us, but for me personally, I clean them on the wire wheel on my bench grinder before putting them back. As for the air wrench working hard to get them out; that doesn't tell me much without knowing make and model of air wrench. There are half inch impact wrenchs with a maximum of less than 250 ft./lbs. and some with as much as 600 ft./lbs. (quite a range).

Bird

 

[Thomas]

Steve,
I would think by cleaning the threads you will find out the bolts will start easier,also the old locktite won't gum up the threads.


Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[Thomas]

Bird,
Whats the differents between the blue and red locktite?
My understanding is one stronger than the other after it dries.
I've always use red locktite and found its hard to loosen the bolts.

I guess you will be out tilling today. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[Bird]

Sorry, Thomas, it's been too long ago since I checked into the differences. I think one dries hard and brittle while the other retains some elasticity. And I don't think I've ever used a red one. I've used the blue, but I think all I have right now is white.

Bird

 

[DFB]

There are two that I'm familiar with and use.

The 271-Red Loctite a high strength compound for heavy duty applications. "Extra effort or special tools are required for removal".

The 242-Blue Loctite is a medium strength all purpose compound for easy disassembly with hand tools.

There is a Green Loctite too. Supposed to be used on preassembled fasteners.

DFB

 

[Thomas]

DFB,
I use the red locktite on just about everything,but now your saying there a green also Bird mention a white locktite. /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif
Kinda wonder whats the heat valve for the blue,green,white locktite..120 to 180 degrees??


Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[DFB]

Thomas,

The red is tough stuff for sure. They even recommend using heat to break it loose./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif I usually only use it on fasteners like engine mounting bolts and shock studs. Use the blue on just about everything else.
Check out the web links. Loctite has special high temp formulas.
Permanent Strength
Removable Strength
Retaining compounds

DFB

 

[Bird]

<font color=blue>They even recommend using heat to break it loose</font color=blue>

That's precisely what I have to do to get a lot of air tools apart. I got in a Snap-On air hammer (or chisel to some folks) today that's a real clean looking tool except for the massive claw marks on it where the owner tried his best (unsuccessfully) with two pipe wrenches to get it apart himself./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif And the manuals don't tell you that heat is necessary; you only learn that by talking to service reps./w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif And of course the same is true for the other brands as well as Snap-On. I just returned a Chicago Pneumatic ratchet on which the owner destroyed an $11 part with his pipe wrench or channel locks getting it apart. I guess the manuals don't tell you to use heat because then they'd have to tell you that you better remove some heat sensitive parts before you apply that heat or you may have an even bigger mess./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

Bird

 

[HR_Mutt]

The blue is commonly referred to as "service removable" in the machine assembly trade. The fastener may be removed without heat or risk of damage to threads. The red, green, and amber are higher strength. One of them (amber?) will make up .015" in hole diameter difference. This is useful installing bushings and it DOES hold after curing. It will tell on the back of each bottle the strength of that number/color. It is important to start with clean dry surfaces! I agree with the wire brushing if you are reusing a bolt, i also carefully run a tap into the hole and then blow out the residue. Paint thinner works to clean up threads nicely.

 

[Thomas]

HR_Mutt,
Thanks for the info,and I guess I'll stick w/the red locktite.

By chance would you know of the heat ranges?

Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[HR_Mutt]

Thomas
All I have at home is the removable and it does not list heat range. There is a post from DFB above with links to loctite. Unfortunately I cannot open the .pdf files. If it were me, I would try it and check in 24 hours, you'll know if it is locked. The loctite site did mention a high temp version for up to 450 degrees! Hope I am not the one who has to pull that one apart. Best Regards.
HR_Mutt

 

[caddison]

Steve,

Your best bet is to clean up the threads and re-apply a little blue loctite. The blue is commonly used for bolts. We used a lot of green and red loctite in the machine shop. Green was used when installing valve seats and dry sleeves as well as drive in type oil plugs. You'll find the assembly will be much easier with clean threads. The fresh loctite will also aid as a lubricating agent until it sets up.

 

[DFB]

Thomas,

Just so there is no confusion, the green threadlocker I first mentioned is the 290 Wicking Grade. The TDS describes it as being fluorescent green in color. Its used to hold threaded type fasteners in place after positioning / adjustment. At the web site it says it's particularly suitable for for applications such as carburetor screws.

DFB

 

[Thomas]

DFB,
I'm finally getting the just of the different locktite now./w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

-4 degrees and chilling breeze for the first of March.
How does that old saying...in like a loin out like a lamb. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[Bird]

<font color=blue>in like a loin out like a lamb</font color=blue>

In like a what?/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif 32 degrees and a frog stranglin' gulley washer here this morning./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif

Bird

 

[SteveV]

Thanks for the responses on this issue; I think this and the locktite (Permatex) website have lead me to remove all the old before reassembling for the simple reason that the cure is only reversible (or destroyed) by heat. Which leads me to the method that'll probably be used to clean the bolts: heat. One thing I haven't figured out yet is if there is ryme or reason to the thread; is it wrong to jump in the middle or at the top?? Does this really bother anyone? Sometimes another post comes in while writing a reply and it just gets screwed up. SteveV

 

[Thomas]

SteveV,
Just jump right in when ever you feel like and express your thoughts. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Beware of thoses gentlmen out west..yikes.. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[ERNIEB]

SteveV, If I understand you correctly, I usually reply to a particular post. At the top, in the middle, where ever. My Post will always show up at the bottom, but I think most click the box "Email all replies to my real email address". That way the person I am responding to will get an email.
If I'm just offering my 2 cents, or a general comment, I reply to the person who started the thread, or the last person's post.
The time will usually show that posts were done at or near the same time. Unless like me they type a sentence, go get a cup of coffee, type a little more, go to the bathroom, and by this time AOL has dropped me off line, and so on. I don't think anyone gets too worked up about any of this.

Ernie
"I dont like being hemmed up, I think we should march out onto that prairie" David Crockett