Old Dump Truck

[JeffandTamara]

I have an opportunity to purchase a 1966 Chevy 1 ton Dump Truck. The truck itself ran a couple of years ago, but has been parked in the barn for the past 2 years. Went to try to start it, but no luck, also no brakes.
Apparently there was gas getting to the carb, cause it was running down the carb, but never fired. I was told the dump hydraulics worked well.

My questions are.(1) I think we could get it running, but not sure what could be damaged by sitting so long. (2) on Older vehicles, can you get parts w/out too much trouble or at a reasonable price? (3) Is non leaded gas a problem with the older engine? (4) Although this seems to be cheap on the front end, I see a lot of work, Anyone with similar experience want to offer some advice..

Thanks for any ideas...

 

[wushaw]

You should not have any problems getting parts for that truck.

I am sure they still make points, carb kits and all that good stuff.

I would fix the brakes first since you know the motor turns over.

 

[ultrarunner]

I have an opportunity to purchase a 1966 Chevy 1 ton Dump Truck. The truck itself ran a couple of years ago, but has been parked in the barn for the past 2 years. Went to try to start it, but no luck, also no brakes.
Apparently there was gas getting to the carb, cause it was running down the carb, but never fired. I was told the dump hydraulics worked well.

My questions are.(1) I think we could get it running, but not sure what could be damaged by sitting so long. (2) on Older vehicles, can you get parts w/out too much trouble or at a reasonable price? (3) Is non leaded gas a problem with the older engine? (4) Although this seems to be cheap on the front end, I see a lot of work, Anyone with similar experience want to offer some advice..

Thanks for any ideas...

My Uncle bought a 62 Chevy 1 ton dump that hadn't been used for several years.

Besides checking all the fluids... and installing a new battery, he had to clean the or burnish the points by passing a clean business card between the contact for half a minute before he could get spark.

If the engine cranks and you have fuel and spark it should try to start. If it doesn't, the next thing to check is compression to see if the valves are stuck in an open position.

He did replace the brake master cylinder and wheel cylinders and have the radiator rodded out.

The dump hydraulics worked great... so he lucked out there.

Let us know what you find out.

 

[machmeter62]

I have an opportunity to purchase a 1966 Chevy 1 ton Dump Truck. The truck itself ran a couple of years ago, but has been parked in the barn for the past 2 years. Went to try to start it, but no luck, also no brakes.
Apparently there was gas getting to the carb, cause it was running down the carb, but never fired. I was told the dump hydraulics worked well.

My questions are.(1) I think we could get it running, but not sure what could be damaged by sitting so long. (2) on Older vehicles, can you get parts w/out too much trouble or at a reasonable price? (3) Is non leaded gas a problem with the older engine? (4) Although this seems to be cheap on the front end, I see a lot of work, Anyone with similar experience want to offer some advice..

Thanks for any ideas...

First of all, what type of engine: (6 cylinder or small block Chevy V-8). If it's the small block; parts are plentiful at discount prices everywhere! The 6 cylinder should be available too.

Fuel may have turned to vanish in the carburetor, use some carb cleaner to try to clean it out. If the engine runs and dies, try some starting fluid too in the carb. Keep trying that to clean the carburetor out. Unless you have electrical problems, you should be able to get it going, and fill the brake reservoir with fluid, and bleed the brakes.

Non leaded fuel should be no problem. Good luck and post your results or further problems.

If it is an electrical problem; check for a spark by grounding one of the spark plugs somewhere on the block. If corrision is in the rotor cap; give it a shot of WD-40, plus some on the points there.

Since it was stored in a barn; the truck may have had rodents as visitors so look for damage on all the electrical wires too!

 

[DieselPower]

1) Sounds like points if it's getting fuel. Take a dollar bill and run it through the points in the distributor a couple of times. Better yet, if you buy it do yourself a huge favor and put a electronic distributor in it. It's a easy drop in swap in a Chevy. Did it in all my 1966 Chevy cars that have 250 straight 6's.

2) Parts shouldn't be a problem. You can actually still get most of them from the GM dealership.

3) Yes, if the head is original and the valve seats have not been done. If it already has hardened valve seats installed then your fine.

4) As long as it's not a basket case of rust then I wouldn't run from it. Install all new brake components and if it still has the non-assist brake master cylinder do yourself a favor and install a vacuum assist master cylinder (dual cylinder not a single like it probably has). Change all the fluids, belts, hoses and so on and have fun using it.

 

[john_bud]

BEFORE you try the other suggestions, pull all the spark plugs out and put 2-3 oz of AFT into each cylinder and let that sit for at least a day. Better if it sits for 2-3. Then burnish the points, spray the carb and all that stuff and try and get it to start. Let it crank over a few times before putting the plugs back in.

The ATF will lubricate the rings and dissolve any goo or even carbon that may be holding them. It will also help increase the compression by sealing the ring to cylinder.

The brakes may be a money pit. It depends on the amount of rust. Both external and internal. Brake lines do rust out from accumulated water as very very few people flush the brakes out. (Me neither...)

Around here, dump trucks and grain trucks of that vintage go for 1000-1500 running.

jb

 

[JeffandTamara]

Thanks for all the posts...Lots of insightful ideas here. The truck is about 60 miles from where I live, so kind of a pain to go back and forth to look at and work on.

It is a striaght 6 cyl. When the owner and I arrived, the battery was flat dead as expected. Tried to pull start with a tractor. No luck, never even fired, but doesn't suprise me since battery was complete gone.

As pointed out, brakes might be the money pit. I'm sure it should be gone through. I haven't committed yet, so I am still evaluating options. Asking price was $800, but that was when it was thought to be in good running shape. Now I don't know what the financial cost might end up.

So far:
Battery $60
Brakes $150
Routine Maintenance $100
Insurance $500
Tags and Taxes $70
Plus lots of other things I have left out

Seems to be adding up pretty quickly....

 

[DieselPower]

But don't forget the cool factor. When you get it done you will have a "COOL" old truck. Not a modern tin can on wheels.

 

[wushaw]

That old truck will be cheaper to get running and keep running than any new one.

 

[HappyCPE]

That's just what I was thinking. The truck is old enough so that stuff is easy to repair by yourself without a master's in engineering, but you can still get parts for it. Put a coat of paint on it and you've got a parade rig!

I learned to drive on a '63 Carryall so I can almost see the truck you're talking about. Funny how we remember our first ride like that.

 

[ToadHill]

At that age you should investigate antique insurance for it. They have a limit on miles per year but if you only use it once in a while it should work for you.

 

[machmeter62]

I have an opportunity to purchase a 1966 Chevy 1 ton Dump Truck. The truck itself ran a couple of years ago, but has been parked in the barn for the past 2 years. Went to try to start it, but no luck, also no brakes.
Apparently there was gas getting to the carb, cause it was running down the carb, but never fired. I was told the dump hydraulics worked well.

My questions are.(1) I think we could get it running, but not sure what could be damaged by sitting so long. (2) on Older vehicles, can you get parts w/out too much trouble or at a reasonable price? (3) Is non leaded gas a problem with the older engine? (4) Although this seems to be cheap on the front end, I see a lot of work, Anyone with similar experience want to offer some advice..

Thanks for any ideas...

If it isn't a rust bucket, beat up interior/exterior, dump box in reasonable shape, and working, tires should be in reasonable shape stored in a barn, unless dry-rotted. If the purchase price is good; you can afford to put a few bucks into it, and still have a good truck, and be money ahead? One ton dumps are popular and easy to sell. I think it's his responsibility to get it running; unless he wants to sell it "dirt cheap!?" Did he quote a firm price, or a "WAG?" As mentioned by another; it could be a classic, and parade ready with a little TLC?

I purchased a '78 Ford F-350 dump truck with a hydraulic lift in good shape with a Cleveland 351 cu. in. V-8 engine for $3500 with a 10.000 GVW; I did replace all the tires however. My purchase was made in '88. I would check the GVW rating posted on the door post. I think Chev's of that vintage were 9,000#?

Depending upon your mechanical skills; my top offer without seeing it, would be $1500< as a tow-away? Good luck!

I restored mine over the years, and everytime I go to a material yard or quarry it draws a crowd, and is only 30 yrs old?

 

[ctjstr]

I had a not too different deal fall into my lap about 6 months ago, and I'm now the proud owner of a '63 GMC dump truck. The initial cost was zero..gift. I've got about 4-500 in it total so far, not including operating costs and insurance.

The hydraulics on the box didn't work, so I tied the box to a tree branch and drove forward to raise the box up. Blocked it up and added a ton on hydraulic oil to the cylinder. Works fine ever since. Had to replace the master cylinder, which is a dual cylinder thing, used for both the clutch and brakes. Also had to replace the slave cylinder on the clutch. Plugs, wires and a carb and its a real hot rod now.

Biggest headache is the thing does not have a two speed rear end, so top speed in high gear is about 50 mph and you can **** near watch the gas guage go down. I probably get 5 mpg or so, on a good day.

But, as mentioned before, the thing puts me way high on the "cool meter", so its worth having.

I found it was less headache to just insure it for liability year round. Costs me about 300 for the year. I could have insured it on a call in basis, but after a few trips in a year, the costs would even out, and knowing me, I'd forget to call.

So far, all the stuff had been easy to find and relatively in-expensive. I wouldn't hesitate to do it again.

Have fun with the new toy.

 

[machmeter62]

I believe the one ton trucks of that vintage probably had the same gear ratio as the 70's generation with 4:10 to 1. Mine averages 10 miles per gallon with a four speed manual gear box.

I also have a '78 Chevrolet one ton dually, but not a dump truck; with the last year of the 400 cubic inch small bloc V-8, four barrel carb, three speed auto transmission, and it came standard with the 4:10 gears too. It also gets the same 10 MPG on fuel. I have a tachometer in it, and it turns 3000 RPM +/- at 55 MPH.

 

[JESSE1]

Check out my "Old Iron" thread on page 4. There's a lot of satisfaction in getting a veteran vehicle running. They're generally easy to work on but that doesn't mean low cost. You should have a pretty easy time finding parts for a Chevy. The biggest problem driving an older truck is people tend to swerve when they go by you. They either don't know what it is or they used to drive one and haven't seen one in a long time.