OK What Do I NEED To Know

/ OK What Do I NEED To Know #21  
surewhynot: I have three suggestions to appease the other half and keep her happy.

#1 Ask her to go out in the snow now and show you where she wants her flower garden and where the vegetable garden will go. Ask her details like how wide, how many rows of corn, where will the roses go, etc.

#2 Sand and repaint a couple of your inherited implements. Do a REALLY NICE job. Buy new nuts, bolts, couple of new decals, etc. Show them to her. She will look hard and that is when you jump in and say "guess how much they were" Now she's looking really hard at you. This is when you answer $22.37 Remind her how smart and handy you are and that you refurbished all this stuff for the cost of a couple cans of paint. Hint: take actual costs and divide by 4

#3 Do NOT, under any conditions, let her have your TBN password. You do not need her to be reading any of our posts on how to help you spend more money
 
/ OK What Do I NEED To Know
  • Thread Starter
#22  
Thanks for the advice on painting the toys that came with the place when we bought it. She would appreciate the repair and beautification of the old implements. I could even paint them Kubota Orange to match:) As far as any new toys for my new L3240-well she already calls me a "Bottomless Pit of Wants and Needs" Can't blame her..I am:D
 
/ OK What Do I NEED To Know #23  
OK.... I'll take a shot at what you will want to make sure you have for your new tool

steering wheel spinner... or 3 in case one doesn't stay where you put it:eek:
toothbar
front and rear work lights
weighted tires or rear weight, or both... to counter your loaded FEL weight.
maybe a hydraulic top link?
do you have enough rear spools?


These are my big bang for the buck items... must haves for me....
 
/ OK What Do I NEED To Know #24  
texasjohn said:
OK.... I'll take a shot at what you will want to make sure you have for your new tool

steering wheel spinner... or 3 in case one doesn't stay where you put it:eek:
toothbar
front and rear work lights
weighted tires or rear weight, or both... to counter your loaded FEL weight.
maybe a hydraulic top link?
do you have enough rear spools?


These are my big bang for the buck items... must haves for me....

TexasJohn I am going to disagree with you about one of the reasons for one of your must have items. I know a lot of people like to have wheel weights or rear weights to counter FEL loads. I have never liked that idea. I kind of like knowing that if I pick up something with the FEL that overtaxes the tractor the back end starts lifting off of the ground. It is an immediate awareness that maybe I did not need to pick up something that heavy. That is strictly an opinion of course I am aware that a Lot of people agree with what you said.
 
/ OK What Do I NEED To Know #25  
gemini5362 is just about 180 degrees off of my opinion on weights to counter the FEL load. My experience is that inadequate weight is dangerous. Makes it much easier to flip the tractor over. Makes you lose traction and makes the load on the front axle higher.

Some have differing opinions, but I feel strongly that all FEL equiped tractors (except for dedicated mowing machines) need to have filled rear tires and have 3pt ballast.

The way to tell if you are picking up something too heavy is to have the relief valve activate. That is a built in safety device that re-directs hydraulic flow away from the FEL and back to the tank. The relief is engineered to do just that and for that reason. If you pick up something and the tail end lifts - you are in very dire danger. And not just at that time, every time you use the FEL. Just because the tire didn't lift, doesn't mean it isn't about to lift or worse flip you over when you hit a bump or turn the wheel. Dangerous, very dangerous. Extremely dangerous. Dynamic loads are higher than static loads, so hitting a rock while turning on an un-ballasted tractor can flip it quick, where a ballasted tractor isn't impacted.

Always, filled rear tires and a 3pt implement or dedicated 3pt weight on all FEL tractors. Always. I like to see wheel fill, wheel weights and 3pt ballast all total to equal to 100-150% of the FEL lift capacity

Others will chime in with other opinions, so it's up to you to determine which opinion is most helpful. After all, WE are all proud of our opinions.
 
/ OK What Do I NEED To Know #26  
I generally keep my 500# box blade/scraper on the 3PH for FEL balance. Even with weighted rears and the extra weight I will still get some "bounce" at times. Jay
 
/ OK What Do I NEED To Know
  • Thread Starter
#27  
When I spoke to the dealer he suggested I put the 3pt blade on the back for weight and leave it there. I will check into the counter weights for the rear of the tractor...hmmm only another few hundred....but safety before savings..:D
 
/ OK What Do I NEED To Know #28  
Per Kubota Front Loader Operator's Manual, LA514, LA724, LA854: "For tractor stability and operator safety, rear ballast should be added to the rear of the tractor in the form of 3-point counter weight and rear wheel ballast. The amount of rear ballast will depend on the application."

Calcium Chloride filled R4's add about 450 lbs per tire, AG's about 295 lbs per tire.
 
/ OK What Do I NEED To Know #29  
Surewhynot:

A blade is heavy and puts the weight farther back on the rig which does help balance, but it will also affect your manuverability. My rotary cutter hanging off the back really can put the weight back there, but it limits my movements. For me my 500# box blade is a multi-use attachment that I use even during the minter to breakup the ice on my driveway and push snow that my FEL can not access. In the Spring I attach my 550# tiller. I leave the tiller on until I need to change attachments. Both the tiller and box blade ride relatively close to the tractor and only overhang (widthwise) a couple of inches so they do not get in the way of manuvering. I am just giving you more "reasons" to acquire those attachments ;). Jay
 
/ OK What Do I NEED To Know #30  
john_bud said:
gemini5362 is just about 180 degrees off of my opinion on weights to counter the FEL load. My experience is that inadequate weight is dangerous. Makes it much easier to flip the tractor over. Makes you lose traction and makes the load on the front axle higher.

Some have differing opinions, but I feel strongly that all FEL equiped tractors (except for dedicated mowing machines) need to have filled rear tires and have 3pt ballast.

The way to tell if you are picking up something too heavy is to have the relief valve activate. That is a built in safety device that re-directs hydraulic flow away from the FEL and back to the tank. The relief is engineered to do just that and for that reason. If you pick up something and the tail end lifts - you are in very dire danger. And not just at that time, every time you use the FEL. Just because the tire didn't lift, doesn't mean it isn't about to lift or worse flip you over when you hit a bump or turn the wheel. Dangerous, very dangerous. Extremely dangerous. Dynamic loads are higher than static loads, so hitting a rock while turning on an un-ballasted tractor can flip it quick, where a ballasted tractor isn't impacted.

Always, filled rear tires and a 3pt implement or dedicated 3pt weight on all FEL tractors. Always. I like to see wheel fill, wheel weights and 3pt ballast all total to equal to 100-150% of the FEL lift capacity

Others will chime in with other opinions, so it's up to you to determine which opinion is most helpful. After all, WE are all proud of our opinions.

OK, I'm an "OTHER" chiming in. It is with great trepidation and feelings of angst that I break out of a long established pattern of virtually always agreeing with gemini (sorry Thomas) and essentially agree with John.

You can not safely accomplish all that much with an FEL on a modern powerful CUT because the little tykes are so abundantly endowed in the hydraulic department and are so small (short and light) unless you use added weight.

Loads that are well within the capability of the tractor and its FEL to safely handle with regards to hydraulics and steel structure as well as axles, bearings, and all associated load bearing stuff will in fact virtually always cause an unweighted CUT to have the rear wheels go airborne. If the rear wheels do not go airborne they may still get so light that the least little surface irregularity will cause them to bounce up leaving you unstable and unable to steer properly. Trying to tractor while doing a reverse wheelie is NOT RECOMMENDED.

MY Kubota's instruction manual goes into liquid tire fill in detail and then mentions except the cab model which may NOT use liquid fill (that is yet another small romance novel.) I have the maximum number of (Kubota supplied) cast iron wheel weights Kubota recommends (3 on each side.) This helps with traction and for doing FEL work. Still the little Kubota Grand L4610HSTC has much more FEL capability (Both strength of structure of the tractor, attachment points, FEL itself and bucket, and the hydraulics than can be safely used with only the wheel weights.

I can do much more work, safely, with some rear ballast. I can use my brush hog or my box blade as ballast to good effect. The brush hog limits maneuverability, especially in tight quarters so th;e box blade is the current counterweight of choice. I have a carryall that I have not used yet which will be tried out as an easily attached/detached counterweight with a weight secured to it. The weight will be a drum of rocks or barrel of water. Alternatively, I may build a 3PH counterweight as others have chronicled on this site.

My tractor is NOT too strong for its own good. It suffers the curse of all good CUT's, it is a lot of capability in a small package and being small it is short (low leverage to counterbalance FEL loads) and not extremely heavy ( a good thing part of the time) so at times its weight and balance needs to be intentionally and with cautious forethought, adjusted. Adding a counterweight farther back (than the tires) gets the balance job done with significantly less total weight added for the effect achieved (leverage.)

Considering convenience, some folks have their tires filled all the time and that is convenient for them (maybe) but I like the ability to easily and conveniently go light if I choose and liquid fill does not support that contention but counterweights do. I could, if so inclined, remove and replace my bolt on wheel weights with a lot less fuss than emptying and refilling tires with liquid.

Examples of common usage:

I have a bale spear for the FEL. Round bales often weigh over 1000 lbs and must be transported through whatever terrain in whatever weather as my stock MUST BE FED. I can not safely do that with no added weight. Depending on the bale I may lift the rear tires into the air instead of the bale and even if I can lift the bale I may not have reliable steering with the rear wheels sort of just lightly skimming the ground. Running around with 1000 lbs on the spike is trivial with counterweight.

Hauling a couple hundred T-posts out intp the pasture to support a fencing job: Same story.

Moving large rocks with the FEL: Same story.

Moving anything heavy with the FEL mounted pallet forks (rated for 1300 lbs due to being long when the short forks are rated for more by Kubota attesting to the factory approved lift capability)

Why have forks SAFELY capable of 1300 or1500lbs if you can't pick up that much and keep the rear wheels on the ground or on the ground with enough contact pressure to provide safety and steering?

I stipulate that gemini has a larger more powerful tractor in his Montana than my Kubota and can safely carry, with no counterweight, more than I can with no counterweight and maybe enough to satisfy him BUT I assert that his tractor will safely carry significantly more by FEL with added counterweight without exceeding any load restrictions of the maker, common sense, or practicality.

This doesn't make gemini wrong, more likely conservative and possibly just not fully informed. It is his tractor and he can use it any way he wants, even if it is perhaps in a much more limited manner than is still safe or allowed by specifications.

Sorry John but I have to disagree with the liquid fill for tractors that are specifically prohibited from having it such as my Kubota. I know that is heresy in some quarters but before you start gathering kindling for a cleansing fire in which to burn me at the stake, consider there are usually exceptions to rules, especially rules that people make up with limited exposure to contrary information.

Pat
 
/ OK What Do I NEED To Know #31  
For the original poster. I am sure you notice that I am in the minority here and the people that have disagreed with me are all people that are very knowledgeable and have a history of reliable information. I understand all of their posts. If you feel comfortable with that information then by all means act on it. One of the things that Pat mentioned was moving hay around. That is something that has to be done and if you cannot do it without the additional weight then you have to use the weight and do that kind of work.

It has been pointed out on numerous threads that there are lots of reasons why everyone has their tractor. For a lot of people like pat they have it for jobs that have to be performed. You do what you need to do in those cases. For other people like me I have no jobs that have to be done. If I have to pick up something that is heavier than my tractor can handle without weights I find another way to move it. I looked long and hard at tractors when I bought my Montana. One of the things I liked was the size and the weight. I can pick up a small car with my FEL and never make the tractor begin to feel like it has a problem with the back end doing a wheelie to use pats term :)
As Pat pointed out I am probably overly conservative with my tractor and obviously the manufacturer of those tractors feel that is a necessary counterbalance to your FEL. I just personally feel that it is better to not pick up stuff that my tractor cannot handle without help. But that is purely my opinion and it is a minority opinion.
 
/ OK What Do I NEED To Know
  • Thread Starter
#32  
I appreciate all the responses and opinions that I have received. I would like to be as the saying goes...better safe than sorry! Adding a few pounds to the tractor to balance the FEL load (although I anticipate only small loads at that) does seem like a good idea, and a lot cheaper and easier than explaining to the BOSS why my new tractor is laying on it's side! And no, I don't think she will buy..just testing the ROPS :eek:
 
/ OK What Do I NEED To Know #33  
Surewhynot said:
I appreciate all the responses and opinions that I have received. I would like to be as the saying goes...better safe than sorry! Adding a few pounds to the tractor to balance the FEL load (although I anticipate only small loads at that) does seem like a good idea, and a lot cheaper and easier than explaining to the BOSS why my new tractor is laying on it's side! And no, I don't think she will buy..just testing the ROPS :eek:
Good plan.

I dont think you can go wrong with the majority opinion in this thread. Like I said before, the people that disagree with me have a lot of experience and have listed very valid reasons for their opinion.
 
/ OK What Do I NEED To Know #34  
About laying a tractor on its side... When you have a load on the FEL and the rear wheels may be a bit light on the ground AND THEN you turn the wheels all the way to lock the "geometry" changes and your lateral stability is reduced to th;e point that it is quite easy to initiate a roll over.

ALWAYS have one hand actually on the joystick when you have a load on the FEL. You can usually save yourself from a rollover if you IMMEDIATELY and COMPLETELY lower the FEL to the ground.

There you have it from the horses mouth when gemini explains that his Montana is beefy enough to please him WITHOUT counterbalance weights and he doesn't mind
finding another way to move something that violates his condition of use methodology. Me too. I feel like I am operating within the maker's recommendations but have personally chosen to work further toward the limits of the recognized safe and prudent envelope.

It did take a while to learn the limits of my abilities and in the process was extremely lucky to never have a roll over incident. I have had the tractor on every combination of two wheels that there is and avoid most of them successfully now at my current experience level (about 900 hours on this Kubota.)

And just for the record..I don't think I disagree with gemini in that what he does is fine, safe, and works. We operate our equipment differently and for different reasons but are both within the envelope of safe and prudent use (well, in my case more so recently.)

Pat
 
/ OK What Do I NEED To Know
  • Thread Starter
#35  
OK, I will go with a ballast box full of sand, weight when I need it and sand when I need in when clearing snow off my icy 1/4 mile driveway. Thanks everyone for the suggestions. Five days until Christmas morning...just look for the frozen nut on a new tractor picking up and moving everything not frozen to the ground:D Oh and I had the dealer put in a heater for those cold winter starts, good idea or waste of money?
 
/ OK What Do I NEED To Know #36  
Patrick G,

I didn't know that Kubota does not want fill on the cab tractors. As our weather is just about perfect year round, all my equipment puts me out in the healthy open air. No need for a cab here. ;).

I do wonder why they state that.


Gemini5362, Don't worry about me, you go right ahead with your unfilled ways. I'm pretty sure YOU are experienced enough to stay shiny side up. Still, it happens with shocking suddenness. Nearly everyone says afterwords, "Next thing I knew I was lying on the ground!". I'm much too abrupt to be lacking in rear weight.

Surewhynot - the plan with a 3pt box of sand is a good one. You can probably make it out of wood and have a sliding partition to allow the sand to dribble out and leave a traction trail on the drive.
 
/ OK What Do I NEED To Know #37  
Surewhynot, wow, didn't know that I'd start such an interesting :D discussion when I mentioned weight! I've carefully read all posts below re that subject and could not agree more with all of them, taken as a sum, thus, I find no need to add anything.

There are many ways to get extra weight on your rear.... and there are many threads where proud TBNers discuss this weighty subject, and their lbs/$ inventions. Before you pay lots for rear weights, take a look all thru TBN and see if some of the ideas don't fit your needs.

Hmm... I've got a 5030 HSTC = cab AND fluid in the tires.... I've read the manual and didn't see anything about not filling the tires.....I'll look again next time I get the manual out, but I think I would have noticed because I studied the manual real hard when I first got the tractor.
 
/ OK What Do I NEED To Know #39  
john_bud said:
Patrick G,

Gemini5362, Don't worry about me, you go right ahead with your unfilled ways. I'm pretty sure YOU are experienced enough to stay shiny side up. Still, it happens with shocking suddenness. Nearly everyone says afterwords, "Next thing I knew I was lying on the ground!". I'm much too abrupt to be lacking in rear weight.

Thanks for your nice comments but it can happen to me as fast as anyone else. If the truth were known I am a big chicken. If I start going over a rock I have been known to stop and evaluate whether to keep on going or go the other way and not go over the top of the rock. If I have a load on I almost always go the other way and maneuver around the rock. It takes me a little bit longer but I dont want my poor insurance carrier to have to pay out any money. I know how much that would hurt their feelings :) But your comments are very valid and food for thought
 
/ OK What Do I NEED To Know #40  
texasjohn said:
Hmm... I've got a 5030 HSTC = cab AND fluid in the tires.... I've read the manual and didn't see anything about not filling the tires.....I'll look again next time I get the manual out, but I think I would have noticed because I studied the manual real hard when I first got the tractor.

Txjohn, the only reference I found in the manual prohibiting filling the tires is when a backhoe is on.
 
 
Top