Oil & Fuel Oil Filter Cross Reference
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LD1
Epic Contributor
Let me start by saying I hate oil filter crossreferencing.
If I had to guess I'd say that phram probabally has 30 or 40 different oil filters that would work. There is only a handful of different thread sizes and only a handfull of o-ring sizes. If you go to any part store, it doesn't take much to find 3 identical filters that one is maybe a 1/4 inch deeper and one may be a 1/4 inch wider, etc.
That said, two of the best websites for crossing are wix and fram. Fram doesnt list the kubotas but wix does.
Just to show you how messed up it is, kubotas website lists your filter # as HH164-32430, which is the same as my l3400.
Going to wix's site, and look up your tractor, lists a 51311 (which is a NAPA 1311). They list my 3400 as a 51307 (napa 1307)
Going back to fram, cross the wix/napa #'s to fram and the 1311 is a PH7328 and the 1307 is a PH16.
Both the PH16 and PH7328 are full flow spin-ons, with 3/4-16 thread, anti drainback, 12psi relief valve, same diameter. The only diff is the 3/4-16 is 3.69" tall and the PH7328 is 3.09" tall.
The PH8a will also work, but is is 5.14" tall. The ph3600 is the same height as a 8a, just skinnier, and the ph3614 is a shorter version of the 3600.
Allright I am done ranting. Any of the filters I mentioned will work. They all have the same thread, o-ring, relief setting, and drainback valve. I, as I almost always do, opt for the largest filter that will fit. Larger = more volume, and most of the time, more media. I am running the wix equivellent of the PH8a. It is about 2" taller that the std kubota filter, and it touches the plastic side panel, but it doesnt bother me.
If I had to guess I'd say that phram probabally has 30 or 40 different oil filters that would work. There is only a handful of different thread sizes and only a handfull of o-ring sizes. If you go to any part store, it doesn't take much to find 3 identical filters that one is maybe a 1/4 inch deeper and one may be a 1/4 inch wider, etc.
That said, two of the best websites for crossing are wix and fram. Fram doesnt list the kubotas but wix does.
Just to show you how messed up it is, kubotas website lists your filter # as HH164-32430, which is the same as my l3400.
Going to wix's site, and look up your tractor, lists a 51311 (which is a NAPA 1311). They list my 3400 as a 51307 (napa 1307)
Going back to fram, cross the wix/napa #'s to fram and the 1311 is a PH7328 and the 1307 is a PH16.
Both the PH16 and PH7328 are full flow spin-ons, with 3/4-16 thread, anti drainback, 12psi relief valve, same diameter. The only diff is the 3/4-16 is 3.69" tall and the PH7328 is 3.09" tall.
The PH8a will also work, but is is 5.14" tall. The ph3600 is the same height as a 8a, just skinnier, and the ph3614 is a shorter version of the 3600.
Allright I am done ranting. Any of the filters I mentioned will work. They all have the same thread, o-ring, relief setting, and drainback valve. I, as I almost always do, opt for the largest filter that will fit. Larger = more volume, and most of the time, more media. I am running the wix equivellent of the PH8a. It is about 2" taller that the std kubota filter, and it touches the plastic side panel, but it doesnt bother me.
LBrown59
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Why ?
KennyV
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I am also wondering why you would deliberately want to cross to fram?
Fram is better than no filter, but only slightly better than no filter at all. KennyV
Fram is better than no filter, but only slightly better than no filter at all. KennyV
David_Kb7uns
Veteran Member
I tried this once for my BX2230, found the Wix number and then searched for more info on internet and came across a guy that was doing reviews on some filters and the Wix was one of them. Only problem was that these reviews were for motorcyles and he had cut them apart to show the media and the valves of each one. Some of these filters were half air inside, so I went to the dealer and got the Kubota ones end of story. Not worth it to save a few dollars in my book.
David Kb7uns
David Kb7uns
LD1
Epic Contributor
I don't want to start an oil/oil filter battle, but I dont do it to save money.
I choose not to use kubota brand products because I believe there are better products avaliable.
While I would not use the PH line of Fram filters, their XG and TG line are close to the top. As well as Purolators, Napa Golds, and WIX. Iuse all of these, it just depends on where I go for supplies. Try to stay away from the Fram PH line, as well as pennzoil, STP, and supertech brand. If I remember they are near the bottom.
When it comes to hydraulics, Donaldson and Hasting top my list. But I still use the Kubota Hyd filter because I cant find a cross to either, plus the kubota has a magnet around the rim.
RickB
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What is your opinion of Fleetguard filters?
You do know that you can remove the magnet from a Kubota hydraulic filter and stick it on a Wix?
LD1
Epic Contributor
If I remember correctly the fleetguards were somewhere in the middle. I have read a lot of reviews on filters where guys cut them appart and measure the sq in of filter media, type of media wether paper or synthetic, type of drainback valve, etc etc.
I am sure there are filters that cross with the kubota hydraulic, but I was unable to come up with one. and the way the magnet sits right inside the o-ring, it is like it is made for it. I am pretty sure that kubota doesn't make their own filters, that they have them made for them by some other company. If anyone has any inside information on why makes filters for kubota, that would be interesting to know.
I am sure there are filters that cross with the kubota hydraulic, but I was unable to come up with one. and the way the magnet sits right inside the o-ring, it is like it is made for it. I am pretty sure that kubota doesn't make their own filters, that they have them made for them by some other company. If anyone has any inside information on why makes filters for kubota, that would be interesting to know.
SARG
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From all that I have read the Fram ranks very close to the bottom because of the cardboard materials they started using on the ends to hold the filter materials in place. Something about the "glue" used breaking down and the paper filter element collapsing.
I also read that the Purolator Pure One variety is rated as one of the best because it uses three different materials within the element. I opted to use the Pure One on all my vehicles & tractor and found the easiest source is on Amazon.com
I also read that the Purolator Pure One variety is rated as one of the best because it uses three different materials within the element. I opted to use the Pure One on all my vehicles & tractor and found the easiest source is on Amazon.com
Buckeyeman
Silver Member
Wix and Purolator Prue One are two of the best filters out there. They are easier to come by then say OEM if you live far away from a dealer. Baldwin and Fleetguard are also two good filters but are harder to come by. Fram are junk IMO.
LD1
Epic Contributor
Engine Oil Filter Study
This is a good site to read for about everything you want to know on oilfilters.
It is a little outdated so some things may have changed, for example there is no mention of the fram XG filters, which I think came out sometime after his review.
If you take note, many filters are basically the same as a purolator. Such as the motocraft, powerflo, and proline.
Wix is pretty much the same as the napa and napa golds.
And fram makes the filters for pennzoil and quakerstate. And the only difference between the PH and DG is a nitrile vs silicon drainback valve. But the same crappy paper filter with cardboard ends.
And MOPAR brand filters are made by various sources, including fram, wix, and purolator. So when you buy a $$$ mopar filter, you may just be getting a junk fram. How do we know that kubota is any different??
There are good filters out there and bad filters out there. The only way to know what you are getting is to take them appart. Which I always do after an oil change, so I have seen the insides of several filters. And while the fram PH and DG filters are junk, the XG's are near the best that I have seen.
They have metal end caps and synthetic fiber filter media with metal mesh screen and a good drainback valve. But to each his own.
This is a good site to read for about everything you want to know on oilfilters.
It is a little outdated so some things may have changed, for example there is no mention of the fram XG filters, which I think came out sometime after his review.
If you take note, many filters are basically the same as a purolator. Such as the motocraft, powerflo, and proline.
Wix is pretty much the same as the napa and napa golds.
And fram makes the filters for pennzoil and quakerstate. And the only difference between the PH and DG is a nitrile vs silicon drainback valve. But the same crappy paper filter with cardboard ends.
And MOPAR brand filters are made by various sources, including fram, wix, and purolator. So when you buy a $$$ mopar filter, you may just be getting a junk fram. How do we know that kubota is any different??
There are good filters out there and bad filters out there. The only way to know what you are getting is to take them appart. Which I always do after an oil change, so I have seen the insides of several filters. And while the fram PH and DG filters are junk, the XG's are near the best that I have seen.
They have metal end caps and synthetic fiber filter media with metal mesh screen and a good drainback valve. But to each his own.
The Fred
Veteran Member
I have a few oil filters torn apart on the bench, all replacements for the famously overpriced Kubota HH164-32340.
When I get time this weekend I will post pictures and compare them letting all of us see the inner gutZ.
Although I know little about the actual filter media I can comment on the build quality and measure the bypass valve setting and canister thickness.
Fred
When I get time this weekend I will post pictures and compare them letting all of us see the inner gutZ.
Although I know little about the actual filter media I can comment on the build quality and measure the bypass valve setting and canister thickness.
Fred
buickanddeere
Super Member
Given the amount of counterfeit filters, antifreeze, lubricants and fasteners out there. The average consumer seems unaware that low grade items can be packaged with a high end label and box.
Even the military, nuclear , marine and aviation industries have been hit with fake low grade high priced parts. Anybody ever consider that the local parts store just unloads product off the truck and doesn't check the source or run quality audits?
For the little bitty difference in price and on occasion is even cheaper. I'll go to the dealer for parts .
Even the military, nuclear , marine and aviation industries have been hit with fake low grade high priced parts. Anybody ever consider that the local parts store just unloads product off the truck and doesn't check the source or run quality audits?
For the little bitty difference in price and on occasion is even cheaper. I'll go to the dealer for parts .
LD1
Epic Contributor
Most times the price difference isn't little bitty. And most times for equal or less money, a better product can be had aftermarket.
The Fred
Veteran Member
Buying some oil filters right now.
Price lowest to highest is $2.65-$10.80
Now I most likely won't be doing a side by side compare on the hydro filters at 45 bux a shot!
Fred
Price lowest to highest is $2.65-$10.80
Now I most likely won't be doing a side by side compare on the hydro filters at 45 bux a shot!
Fred
buickanddeere
Super Member
On the overall operating costs of the machine . You can't even find the $20 difference a year saved from thousands of $$$.
I would rather have the peace of mind the oil and filters are less likely to be low quality fakes.
The Fred
Veteran Member
Mr. Buick.....there are other reasons I choose the aftermarket line of filters. Here's one and I don't want this thread locked from dealer bashing. I have a Cub Cadet (Mitsu diesel) and everytime I go to the dealer and buy a filter they charge me full tilt 18 bux (oil filter). Funny thing it comes in a plain white box and is spray painted black and the dealer installs there own sticker over the top. Now I called him on this a few years back because these used to come in a Mitsubishi box and had all the OE markings on it (fits a Subaru Justy by the way) and when I tore one apart it was a CHEAP CHEAP 2 dollar filter he reboxed. I even stripped the paint off to reveal the mighty name on it. I went back and showed him, he ASSURED me these are factory filters, I called his BS and never went back. Not that it matters but same dealer is doing this across the board with his filters, still to this day.
Fred
LD1
Epic Contributor
Plain and simple: I don't like paying more for only a name. I don't mind paying for quality though. Paying for the name however is exaxtally what you are doing 90% of the time you buy OEM. Because OEM doesn't make oil, filters, bearings, belts, etc.
If I need a belt, I get gates or Goodyear. Why pay more for OEM that may be rebranded lesser quality? Same with about everything else.
Just like the driveshaf center bearing I am soon to replace on my long wheel base dodge. I can get a timken unit for half of OEM cost, and lord knows who was the low bidder that made it for them.
Don't get me wrong. There is pleanty of aftermarket junk too. But there is also lots of aftermarket parts that far exceed OEM for similar or less money. So why would you spend more for lesser quality?
If I need a belt, I get gates or Goodyear. Why pay more for OEM that may be rebranded lesser quality? Same with about everything else.
Just like the driveshaf center bearing I am soon to replace on my long wheel base dodge. I can get a timken unit for half of OEM cost, and lord knows who was the low bidder that made it for them.
Don't get me wrong. There is pleanty of aftermarket junk too. But there is also lots of aftermarket parts that far exceed OEM for similar or less money. So why would you spend more for lesser quality?
