Oil & Fuel oil dripping out blow tube

   / oil dripping out blow tube #11  
You cannot determine the real condition of your engine without a detail look-see. My 1300D I bought a few months ago began belch white smoke. I took compression ($30 Harbor Freight diesel gauge kit) and it read 400 and 425. Should have been more than 500 psi. Rule of thumb take compression ratio (23 to 1 in my engine) multiply that (23) by 2 and take that product (46) and multiply by 14.5. Answer is approx max compression of excellent engine at sea level.

I removed the head and saw that someone had been in the engine (scrape marks where they pried the head off before. Found out that the engine had new cylinder liners (in almost diameter new specs) new after market pistons and bearings. Problem was that rings had too little expansion tension--probably had run hot after overhaul or improper ring seating. Bought two new OEM genuine Yanmar pistons with Yanmar rings(pistons had rings on them from Yanmar) from Jimmy Parker of Parker Equipment and put the engine back together with another new set of bearings. Took the head over to auto machine shop and had valve job done and the head face skimmed, and I replaced the valve seals.

Put it all back together adjusted the valves, bled the fuel system and had it running in 4-5 hours. Runs great. When I have 20 hours or so on it I will check compression, however no white smoke now.

It does not matter if you take all the injectors out to check compression as you are going to turn the engine over with the compression released pulled out any way. I found it was easy to loosen both ejectors hold down nuts a turn or so and let the engine compression loosen the ejectors as I turned the engine over with the stater (leave compression release in). I of course loosened the fuel lines to the ejectors first.

My 1300D shined like a new penny with new paint and tires when I bought it. But that does not mean anything other than what you see is what you have--good paint. What you do not see is what you have also--in my case a less than perfect previous overhaul.

In addition to the above I have replaced the front axle seals, O-rings and king pin bushings, rebuilt the brakes, flushed and replaced all fluids, replaced some rubber hydraulic lines, replaced the battery with a real battery, repaired some of the shade tree electrical wiring, replaced front wheel drive propeller shaft U-joints (this was a real effort-as Yanmar's are not available in 19mm size) and a couple of other small things.

Now the tractor is in reasonable condition and I will replace the rear axle seals next spring. But what the heck, I enjoy doing all this.
 
   / oil dripping out blow tube #12  
You cannot determine the real condition of your engine without a detail look-see. My 1300D I bought a few months ago began belch white smoke. I took compression ($30 Harbor Freight diesel gauge kit) and it read 400 and 425. Should have been more than 500 psi. Rule of thumb take compression ratio (23 to 1 in my engine) multiply that (23) by 2 and take that product (46) and multiply by 14.5. Answer is approx max compression of excellent engine at sea level.

I removed the head and saw that someone had been in the engine (scrape marks where they pried the head off before. Found out that the engine had new cylinder liners (in almost diameter new specs) new after market pistons and bearings. Problem was that rings had too little expansion tension--probably had run hot after overhaul or improper ring seating. Bought two new OEM genuine Yanmar pistons with Yanmar rings(pistons had rings on them from Yanmar) from Jimmy Parker of Parker Equipment and put the engine back together with another new set of bearings. Took the head over to auto machine shop and had valve job done and the head face skimmed, and I replaced the valve seals.

Put it all back together adjusted the valves, bled the fuel system and had it running in 4-5 hours. Runs great. When I have 20 hours or so on it I will check compression, however no white smoke now.

It does not matter if you take all the injectors out to check compression as you are going to turn the engine over with the compression released pulled out any way. I found it was easy to loosen both ejectors hold down nuts a turn or so and let the engine compression loosen the ejectors as I turned the engine over with the stater (leave compression release in). I of course loosened the fuel lines to the ejectors first.

My 1300D shined like a new penny with new paint and tires when I bought it. But that does not mean anything other than what you see is what you have--good paint. What you do not see is what you have also--in my case a less than perfect previous overhaul.

In addition to the above I have replaced the front axle seals, O-rings and king pin bushings, rebuilt the brakes, flushed and replaced all fluids, replaced some rubber hydraulic lines, replaced the battery with a real battery, repaired some of the shade tree electrical wiring, replaced front wheel drive propeller shaft U-joints (this was a real effort-as Yanmar's are not available in 19mm size) and a couple of other small things.

Now the tractor is in reasonable condition and I will replace the rear axle seals next spring. But what the heck, I enjoy doing all this.
 
   / oil dripping out blow tube #13  
in auto shop and diesel college they told us to pull all plugs to get true reading , been doing it that way for 22 years on gas motors , i tried one plug at a time on a hard to reach van and got different readings .
yes by way tractor looks , I'd say hours is right as paint on all in good shape , no paint chips on bolts to motor , clean .no repaint , tires are as new , just dry rot from 1983 year .



Had a drag car for years. I never took out all the plugs to do a comp. check. If you want to take all injectors out. It belongs to you. Do as you please. In you'er 1 st post you asked how to do a comp. test..Now you say, you went to diesel college. Did they not show you how to take compression on a diesel ?? If you think hrs are ok .Then I guess all is ok.You say , Previous owner won't call you back. :rolleyes:
 
   / oil dripping out blow tube
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Had a drag car for years. I never took out all the plugs to do a comp. check. If you want to take all injectors out. It belongs to you. Do as you please. In you'er 1 st post you asked how to do a comp. test..Now you say, you went to diesel college. Did they not show you how to take compression on a diesel ?? If you think hrs are ok .Then I guess all is ok.You say , Previous owner won't call you back. :rolleyes:

they start out on gas and moved to diesel , this was in 1980 year .
they teach ed more on the fuel system on diesel part of coarse , stating most other tasks was same as gas engine's .then transmissions and drive train lesson's .they never showed how to check diesel compression .

good info on how to loosen the injectors by backing off the nuts and turning over , i may find the bad cylinder by it not popping the injector .
the motor has no sign of bolts removed at all , no paint missing on bolts just oil plug .
i looked on eBay for compression tester , will any of the ones with all kinds adapters work , or just buy the one from Holt's for $59 ,only to collect dust .
i work on lots of motors ,gas ones , this my first on owning a diesel .
may make a adapter for my gas tester to work ,i have a small lathe .
what should be the reading ,how much pressure in lbs should there be ?
 

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   / oil dripping out blow tube #16  
i looked on eBay for compression tester , will any of the ones with all kinds adapters work , or just buy the one from Holt's for $59 ,only to collect dust .
i work on lots of motors ,gas ones , this my first on owning a diesel .
may make a adapter for my gas tester to work ,i have a small lathe .
what should be the reading ,how much pressure in lbs should there be ?

A compression tester for a gas engine does not have a high enough pressure reading for a diesel.
 
   / oil dripping out blow tube
  • Thread Starter
#17  
A compression tester for a gas engine does not have a high enough pressure reading for a diesel.

yea i caught that on compression release , just didn't say nothing to offend anybody , i appreciate all help on this .
so how much should i expect on compression range .
i thought of checking each cylinder starting each on combustion tdc and check first pressure reading when it returns again to combustion tdc .
how about air testing each cylinder at say 60 psi and listening for air blowing in crank case when tdc of compression stroke ?
you can see down the oil return holes from head down into block .
i just don't want the water in oil issue .
I've done this on gas motor's to check for valves not sealing and bubbles in radiator .i check it on tdc of firing stroke , just have to lock motor from turning with the air applied .
haven't torn into it other than removing valve cover and putting a piece of metal to block some the oil from spraying into the blow tube , it slowed it down some .yes the spiral packing of wire rope is there .
i chipped the paint for first time on bolts .

thanks --and if something comes to mind , i will surly be grateful .
 
   / oil dripping out blow tube #18  
SORRY guys for my "stupid explanation of pulling compression release out to check compression"--IT WAS, now that you mentioned it. I don't know what I was thinking about when I wrote that last night. I am traveling away from my South Carolina home (in Merrie Ole England) and I guess I had a case of brain drag from drinking too much Newcastle Brown Ale last night--which I am drinking some now at 9:30 PM UK time.

I checked my compression with both ejectors removed. However, if you want to do it one at a time You can remove the valve cover and disconnect the compression release rod clip from the arm pushing down the intake valve of the cylinder you are checking, and then pull the compression release out affecting only the other cylinder to have the engine spin over quicker/easier. Or do it without pulling the compression release at all. Whatever. I think is easier to just take them both out.

There are a few Yanmars over here. I am going over to outskirts of London tomorrow to see the old London water works where the largest 3 cylinder steam engine ever built in England. I don't remeber the exact specs but seems like it is 50-60 feet tall, pumped 19 million gallons per day 24 hours a day from mid-1920 until late 70's or so.
 
   / oil dripping out blow tube #19  
my yanmar 20 hp has 446 hours
started dripping a quart every 2 hrs or less out blow tube off valve cover
what is up with it ???
it's a 83 year model 4 wheel drive
i bought it used with 435 hours and it looks new

What is the model number for your Yanmar? That will help people a little.
 
   / oil dripping out blow tube #20  
... I took compression ($30 Harbor Freight diesel gauge kit) and it read 400 and 425. Should have been more than 500 psi.

Rule of thumb take compression ratio (23 to 1 in my engine) multiply that (23) by 2 and take that product (46) and multiply by 14.5. Answer is approx max compression of excellent engine at sea level.

1) The HF kit has the correct adapters for Yanmar? Great! That's good to know.

2) What is the 2x for?
 
 
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