Oil cooler hose issue on the TC

[sherpa]

I was wondering what the latest information was on the oil cooler hose issue.
I had my first one to split yesterday.
The TC33D is 7 years old.
The price of the 5 inch L shaped formed hose is $15 each.
I had read that there was a kit available to replace these hoses?
I did buy 2 new hoses to get my tractor running again.
The new hose seems to be a little tougher than the one I removed.
That may be because of the age of the original hose?
If I would have had more time I believe I could have come up with a better and less expensive repair.

I thought about using a piece of curved conduit and 2 short straight heavy hose.
I had some heavy heater hose in 5/8 inch.
How much pressure is on this hose?
I read where someone made a big loop to avoid using the L hose?
Has anyone fixed the problem another way?
sherpa

 

[jinman]

I can't offer authoritative advice on replacing the hoses, but the hose has to take full HST charge pump pressure. I'd guess that to be as high as 200-250 psi. The flow is from the reservoir to the charge pump. From the charge pump the fluid exits and goes directly to the cooler. After exiting the cooler, the fluid then goes to the HST filter and on to the transmission. That way, the HST filter cleans fluid directly before it goes to the transmission. Any rigid hydraulic line or even flexible hydraulic line with the right fittings should handle much more pressure that you'd ever experience. However, I wouldn't think that automotive style heater hose would be a good choice.

 

[pedalstomper78]

ON my DX33 (Just a red TC33) I bought it used and someone did the "loop" like what you're talking about. Typically, filters don't see the 250 psi or so. A hose like this is lower pressure, but for $30, I'm actually thinking of going to buy the L hoses. It's not that much money and the looped hoses clutter up the front battery area a fair bit.

 

[sherpa]

I got my new hoses on today.
I guess $30 every 7-8 years is not too bad.
I agree, I would rather have the hose than the loops.
sherpa

 

[Halftrack]

I had one of the elbow hoses split and went to an auto parts store and bought 2 replacements for about 10 bucks. We compared to two and very similar construction- single weave reinforcement, basically heater hose. I eventually did the upgraded metal lines which eliminate the elbows and replace them with a straight hose on both sides of the oil cooler. The parts # are 87304506 and 87304509, which match the previous part # for the elbowed tubes, so they are an upgraded replacement part. MEESICKS lists them at a cost of about 89 bucks total. I was worried that another split would put me out of business or inflict damage elsewhere, costing more bucks. When I bought my TC 33D used, a regional service rep suggested the upgrade. Good Luck, halftrack...

 

[5picker]

As Halftrack mentioned the permanent solution is to upgrade to the replacement metal line kit which eliminates the curved rubber hoses and connects the metal lines with straight rubber hoses.
Not that the straight hoses are rated for any higher pressure but I believe the engineering thought behind this was if you can slide the two metal lines as close together as possible before joining with the straight rubber hose (keeping the hose clamps as close together as possible) there is less chance of the hose swelling and bursting compared to with the rubber elbows.

Sherpa, since you already bought original equipment replacement elbow hoses, I know some of the guys around here (myself included before I upgraded) took plastic zip ties (wire ties) and installed them one by one tightly next to each other around and covering the length of rubber hose. The thought being, the pressure then couldn't swell the hose and burst. Several are still running them this way with no further problems.

 

[Bassdogs]

Same issue with my 33D but found good [I think] alternative when the local NH dealer wanted $29 each for the OEM "L" connecters. After searching Napa, a couple auto parts stores, a farm equip service shop, and finally a commercial truck Tire facility. They had a 5/8" hose designed as a hydraulic return line. It was rubber with a metal spring imbedded in the rubber and the exterior was wrapped by some type of nylon material. It was remarkably flexible and I was able to easily bend a 6" piece to replace the OEM "L" hose. The spring effectively prevented the hose from crimping when I made the tight bend. The hose is designed as a return line for truck hydraulic systems so it should easily handle the task on the 33D.

I would suspect you could find this type hose at any commercial truck repair/service facility. Just ask for a 5/8 id hydraulic return hose.