Of chains and of tires

[jagyzf]

Do you really need chains on a paved driveway? If you keep it clean and don't let ice build up on it I would think you would be fine.

I have never found the need and wouldn't want to damage the driveway. Stone or gravel drives I have used chains and they do make a huge difference on those types. You can always get a set and only put them on if needed.

You didn't say if your drive was flat or not, that could make a difference. Also what is your average snow fall and is it usually heavy wet snow or lighter stuff.

As far as only putting them on the front. Then you could have the front end doing most of the work. IMO that would be more than the front could take, but that is my opinion. Even with a 2wd tractor I haven't had issues with keeping it straight unless the front is on ice, or becomes light from pushing and it starts to lift. Which then chains won't help anyway.

 

[WinterDeere]

Do you really need chains on a paved driveway? If you keep it clean and don't let ice build up on it I would think you would be fine.

I have never found the need and wouldn't want to damage the driveway. Stone or gravel drives I have used chains and they do make a huge difference on those types. You can always get a set and only put them on if needed.

I do usually keep it clean (unless we're away). I was planning to do as you suggest, get a set, and only use them if/when needed. On my garden tractor, I found myself using chains as much in the muddy spring time as I would for snow in the winter, but this machine has 4wd, so maybe less of an issue.

You didn't say if your drive was flat or not, that could make a difference. Also what is your average snow fall and is it usually heavy wet snow or lighter stuff.

The 300 feet from the house to the street is flat, but the 150 feet from the barn to the house is a hill. We're right in the mid-Atlantic, where snow can be all types, even in the same storm. Typical winter lows in the 20's with highs in the 30's, with a few days closer to 0*F most years, so we get a whole mix of different types of snow.

As far as only putting them on the front. Then you could have the front end doing most of the work. IMO that would be more than the front could take, but that is my opinion. Even with a 2wd tractor I haven't had issues with keeping it straight unless the front is on ice, or becomes light from pushing and it starts to lift. Which then chains won't help anyway.

Cool. Thanks!

 

[CJONE]

On a CUT I would put them on the back first then the front. As of yesterday I now have 2 link V bar ladders on all 4 corners. Big loaders we always put them on the front because the back was off the ground alot and was useless to have chains on the rear tires. CJ Just a thought on the rear blade, if you are good with the loader I would not waste the $$$ if you don't already have one. I am going to go with a snow box and a rear PTO blower.

 

[Jay4200]

Just got power back... actually! Lost a few big trees in the storm. Will be a busy weekend cleaning up.

My tractor was made in the 80's, but I'd be surprised that's the sole determination on how it will handle front vs. rear chains.

My bucket control does not stay in float. You basically have to hold it hard forward to keep the bucket floating. I assumed that's how the 855 hydraulic valve was designed to work, but maybe not? The loader I used before this machine could be set to float, and would stay in float until you pulled the lever back.

My bucket won't stay in float either. I suspect there is something stuck in the valve, but I'll probably never fix it. I run a 6' 3pt blower on my Kubota L4200 - I use 2-link V-bar chains on the front wheels. I blow off 1000' of gravel drive w/ a fairly substantial hill. I have 2-link std ladder chains for the rear too - they are heavy and a PITA to mount, so I figured I'd hold off putting them on until I had a traction problem with just the front chains, but I've never needed them.

JayC

 

[WinterDeere]

Cool. Thanks for the info!

I'm also looking at maybe doing a rear blower, so I can keep the loader on the front and use the two in tandem. I've never tried plowing with the bucket, but I've always been told don't bother trying. I'm told I'll scrape up my nice asphalt, wear out my bucket, and just get frustrated trying to push with it.

Recently looking at a Woodmaxx rear blower.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/261970-woodmaxx-pto-snow-blower.html

 

[RoyJackson]

but I've always been told don't bother trying. I'm told I'll scrape up my nice asphalt, wear out my bucket, and just get frustrated trying to push with it.

Main thing is to keep the bucket slightly rolled back so the cutting edge isn't scraping the asphalt as you're moving forward.

If you're concerned about marking the drive, make sure you get skidshoes...especially if you end up with the rear blade, or plow with the convex side of the blade (so make sure the blade you buy will rotate 180 degrees when mounted on the 3PH).
And, if you do go for tire chains, make your turns as gradual as possible.

 

[WinterDeere]

Thanks, Roy. Not super concerned with scratches, but would be concerned about lifting asphalt, particularly at the three stress cracks I have running across the drive.

 

[CJONE]

Cool. Thanks for the info!

I'm also looking at maybe doing a rear blower, so I can keep the loader on the front and use the two in tandem. I've never tried plowing with the bucket, but I've always been told don't bother trying. I'm told I'll scrape up my nice asphalt, wear out my bucket, and just get frustrated trying to push with it.

Recently looking at a Woodmaxx rear blower.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/261970-woodmaxx-pto-snow-blower.html

Plowed with a bucket for years, like Roy said keep your bucket rolled back until you either build up a base or get the feel for not tearing up the asphalt. Cold or frozen blacktop is very very hard to tear up. CJ