NX6010 suction side hydro leak

[Overtaxed]

OK, here's a video of it working "pretty well". Almost no bubbles, everything smooth. I realize it's a lot hotter today, but Eric, this is how my machine works in 10-20 degree weather now. None of the noise you are hearing.

20190817 1524491 - YouTube

 

[justman777]

OK, here's a video of it working "pretty well". Almost no bubbles, everything smooth. I realize it's a lot hotter today, but Eric, this is how my machine works in 10-20 degree weather now. None of the noise you are hearing.

20190817 1524491 - YouTube

Overtaxed, can you confirm the "wind tunnel" or "fluid spraying" noise wasn't audible in the fill port right after you had your filter housing changed?

I'm beginning to think your initial problem may have been the filter housing or an air leak in the filter housing, but now you have a new problem...similar to mine.

Does anyone else get the "wind tunnel" or "fluid spraying" noise at their fill port?

 

[justman777]

Had some folks ask about the size of tubing and clamps I used to replace the black poly tubing between the filter head and pump.

Got the clamps off Amazon. They were expensive, but they work much better than the worm gear clamps I was using. Do a search for "HPS (SSTC-41-46) 41mm - 46mm Stainless Steel T-Bolt Clamp for 1-1/4" and 1-3/8" Hose". Note the size of the clamp is based on the ID of the hose, not the OD. This is the right size clamp.

The tubing is 1.75 OD and 1.25 ID reinforced braided tubing purchased from the orange home store. They only sell them in 24 inch lengths, of which you'll use about 6 inches of it.

I had to use a heat gun on both ends of the poly tubing to get them over the ends of the metal tubing. It helped that the metal tubing was coated in hydro oil

 

[YLee Kioti]

Had some folks ask about the size of tubing and clamps I used to replace the black poly tubing between the filter head and pump.

Got the clamps off Amazon. They were expensive, but they work much better than the worm gear clamps I was using. Do a search for "HPS (SSTC-41-46) 41mm - 46mm Stainless Steel T-Bolt Clamp for 1-1/4" and 1-3/8" Hose". Note the size of the clamp is based on the ID of the hose, not the OD. This is the right size clamp.

The tubing is 1.75 OD and 1.25 ID reinforced braided tubing purchased from the orange home store. They only sell them in 24 inch lengths, of which you'll use about 6 inches of it.

I had to use a heat gun on both ends of the poly tubing to get them over the ends of the metal tubing. It helped that the metal tubing was coated in hydro oil

Thank you for the BoM.
Still have 200 hours left on this hyd. fluid. So when its time to replace fluid also will replace with the BoM you provided.
many thanks.

heat gun, yeah good thinking. That, as well as the quality clamps pretty much eliminates air entering via the mechanical connections.

Unless dealer changes game plan for me. lol....

 

[Overtaxed]

Overtaxed, can you confirm the "wind tunnel" or "fluid spraying" noise wasn't audible in the fill port right after you had your filter housing changed?

I'm beginning to think your initial problem may have been the filter housing or an air leak in the filter housing, but now you have a new problem...similar to mine.

Does anyone else get the "wind tunnel" or "fluid spraying" noise at their fill port?

I can't confirm it, but I'm pretty sure it was not. I wasn't looking for this after the filter housing was changed, but, if I had to guess, I think "no". That fluid spraying noise seems to be directly correlated with the bubbles. The more bubbles in the line, the more "fluid spray noise". Which all makes sense because, if you think about it, there really shouldn't be a noise. It's a fluid to fluid connection, it doesn't drain in from the top (does it?).

I'd be real curious to see some video/hear someone's that's working correctly. Is it really working correctly, or is it just not that bad yet? Do they all have this issue and it just degrades over time? And if not, what's the difference between my (and others) machines and the ones that work? There has to be something different.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

OK, here's a video of it working "pretty well". Almost no bubbles, everything smooth. I realize it's a lot hotter today, but Eric, this is how my machine works in 10-20 degree weather now. None of the noise you are hearing.

20190817 1524491 - YouTube

You see the slipping in my video when I lift my loader and it jerks upward. As my fuild warms up, all issues go away, but start-up in warm and an immediate loader lift show slippage. A consideration for us is that nowhere in Korea or Georgia does it get as cold as my area. As soon as you shared with me that there is a new part, I asked my local-ish Kioti parts guy about the new hydro filter housing and never heard back. I stopped into that dealer last week on my way to Fargo and found out I have a new parts guy and the new guy planned to talk to the mothership about it. I'll follow-up this week as now is the time to work on the tractor rather than fall or winter.

Anyway, thanks for your diligence.

 

[justman777]

I can't confirm it, but I'm pretty sure it was not. I wasn't looking for this after the filter housing was changed, but, if I had to guess, I think "no". That fluid spraying noise seems to be directly correlated with the bubbles. The more bubbles in the line, the more "fluid spray noise". Which all makes sense because, if you think about it, there really shouldn't be a noise. It's a fluid to fluid connection, it doesn't drain in from the top (does it?).

I'd be real curious to see some video/hear someone's that's working correctly. Is it really working correctly, or is it just not that bad yet? Do they all have this issue and it just degrades over time? And if not, what's the difference between my (and others) machines and the ones that work? There has to be something different.

From everything I've seen, it should be a fluid to fluid connection. If you have fluid falling into fluid, you induce turbulence which infuses air into the liquid, like spraying water from a hose into a bucket of water. I thinking if air was NOT being introduced, it'd be a simple hydraulic flow. No wind tunnel noise, no "beer heads", no bubbles, nothing. It should be dead silent, and I shouldn't really see or hear anything other than clear fluid when I look at the hydro fill port.

It'd be really nice if someone who wasn't having this problem could chime in and say what their NX sounded like at the fill port... Hint Hint for all you folks reading this...:anyone:

 

[xcgreene]

Justman777 is exactly correct here and may be pointing to the problem.

Hydraulic fluid return should not be terminating above fluid level in a reservoir. So this spraying noise in the reservoir that has been noted is suspicious, and could be a tel tail. have a read of chapter 6 here CHAPTER 6: Hydraulic reservoirs | Hydraulics & Pneumatics

and more directly/simply, this troubleshoot row from a different manual.




Standard practice to terminate below fluid level. Perhaps there is a blown o-ring or crack of sorts on the return line to the sump that is causing this spraying. If anyone had a sump drawing of this tractor, would tell a lot.

 

[YLee Kioti]

Justman777 is exactly correct here and may be pointing to the problem.

Hydraulic fluid return should not be terminating above fluid level in a reservoir. So this spraying noise in the reservoir that has been noted is suspicious, and could be a tel tail. have a read of chapter 6 here CHAPTER 6: Hydraulic reservoirs | Hydraulics & Pneumatics

and more directly/simply, this troubleshoot row from a different manual.
View attachment 617834



Standard practice to terminate below fluid level. Perhaps there is a blown o-ring or crack of sorts on the return line to the sump that is causing this spraying. If anyone had a sump drawing of this tractor, would tell a lot.

Thanks for the link plus the red lined info.
After reading the page

Tank functions

The main reason the reservoir exists is to store fluid. The accepted rule for sizing a tank is: the tank volume should be two to four times the pump flow in gpm. This is only a general rule. Some circuits may require more volume, while less fluid may be adequate for other circuits. A 25-gpm pump would work well with a 50- to 75-gallon reservoir for most circuits. With this general rule, the returned fluid theoretically will have two to three minutes in the tank before it circulates again. As Figure 6-5 shows, a baffle separates the return line from the pump inlet line, forcing the fluid to take the longest possible path through the reservoir before returning to the pump inlet. This arrangement also mixes the fluid well and provides more time to drop contaminates and de-aerate. In addition, the fluid spends more time in contact with the outer walls of the reservoir to dissipate heat.

So our NX has a 17.9 gpm pump system and the sump should be two to four time larger for reasons stated above. The NX has a 12 gallon or so reservoir. No doubt more then this basic premise goes into fluid mechanics for a machine. Thanks to this info am glad to have used NAPA's synthetic fluid.
But the table does reflect our issues rather well.
Will be sharing this thread to my dealer next month to help accelerate the learning curve.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Does anybody happen to know the new part number of the new, redesigned suction side hydro-filter housing assembly? My dealer hasn't heard back from Parts management after five weeks.