Not Even Close....

/ Not Even Close.... #1  

Indian MC

Silver Member
Joined
May 30, 2016
Messages
148
Location
Southeast, NH
Tractor
Kubota B2601
I'm attempting to change out the oil in my B2601
Pretty much F*cked.
There is nothing even close to this photo while looking about under the Tractor.
I see two flush Bolts.. Are they the ones? Hex Keys? I have over 6K worth of tools and nothing that will fit this.
 

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/ Not Even Close.... #2  
I'm attempting to change out the oil in my B2601
Pretty much F*cked.
There is nothing even close to this photo while looking about under the Tractor.
I see two flush Bolts.. Are they the ones? Hex Keys? I have over 6K worth of tools and nothing that will fit this.
Can you post a picture of that part of the tractor showing these flush bolts that you are talking about?

Aaron Z
 
/ Not Even Close.... #3  
Maybe search Youtube for a few videos? Gotta be a few on there showing your model Kubota, I would think.
 
/ Not Even Close.... #4  
The oil drain plugs are hard to miss, since they are on the two sumps of the oil pan (with shaft in between). Post a picture if unsure and someone here can confirm. Be gentle tightening them back up -- you can strip the pan threads very easily.
 
/ Not Even Close.... #5  
Mine is just like s219 says. Two sumps - one protruding bolt( drain plug ) on each sump.

View attachment 601239 . This will give you another diagram of what you are looking for. It's a page from my owners manual.
 
/ Not Even Close.... #6  
I'm going to ask a stupid question. Are you aware that these are metric nuts and bolts?

Joe
 
/ Not Even Close.... #7  
Did you buy the machine used? If so, that might be why... but why they would use something other than a hex cap bolt would be beyond me. Though, I've seen weirder things in my lifetime. I never ask why any more....

The only thing I can think of, they used Torx Plus headed bolts... most people don't have the tools for them -- they are specialty. The sizes are rather odd compared to regular torx. I typically find these on pickup truck beds that auto manufacturers use.

Why they put them in your tractor is beyond me. Maybe someone was stealing their oil!?
 
/ Not Even Close.... #8  
Should look like this. And yes the manual is not accurate about location and number of drain points at all!!

I just found out there apparently is another one on the clutch bellhousing that contains oil also that I have been missing all along? I always thought it was just to drain moisture if you ever got into water the way it was described. I had no idea there was oil there.

Anyway here are the three I know for sure. The one by the mid PTO snub and the two at the bottoms of the sumps. They should be bolts and look just like the ones that bolt the casings together. But when you look close you can see the difference in that they have sealing type washers unlike the washers used elsewhere.
 

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/ Not Even Close....
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Okay, I'm all set.
I just drained the oil. " Photo "
First off, I'd like to apologize.
I'm feeling like a Troll right now.
Thank you " Everyone " for trying to help me out.
I've been cooking and drinking since last night, multi tasking with the Tractor, weekends are way to short trying to fit everything in.
To much JD right now. LOL.
I asked my wife to come out to the garage and showed her a photo in the manual of what to look for.
She immediately said WTF? Where are you?
The bottom of the engine is over here.... I was fumbling about underneath the middle of tractor.
Just say NO to booze when working on your Kubota.

Here's a photo of the Oil Drain... I only have 47 hours on the Tractor. Man, this looks like Mud. It looked pretty clean on the stick though.
Is this normal for the first Oil Change?

I'm going to run it for just a few hours and swap out the oil and filter again..
 

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/ Not Even Close.... #12  
Used diesel oil is going to look real bad compared to oil from a gas motor;it's o.k. just replace on normal schedule.
 
/ Not Even Close....
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Used diesel oil is going to look real bad compared to oil from a gas motor;it's o.k. just replace on normal schedule.

****, it is Jet Black.
On the Stick it was only slightly colored tan.
BTW, I only have 47 hours on the Tractor, but, she's coming up on three years since I took delivery.
I'm guessing age of the oil might be playing a factor here as well.
 
/ Not Even Close.... #14  
This is why I laugh when I see all the people using shop vacs so they don't have to drain the trans/hydro fluid. At 50 hours mine looked clear on the stick, but was black like old motor oil when I drained it. Doesn't get nearly as bad looking now when I change at close to 200 hours.
 
/ Not Even Close.... #15  
What guy designed this and what was he thinking?View attachment 601287

You know what's funny.....even though that is what is in my manual for this tractor, this model tractor does not have this, LOL. It has a normal single sump engine oil pan.

But many other tractor makes have an oil pan like this. Some are even worse with just a pipe running between them.
 
/ Not Even Close.... #17  
****, it is Jet Black.
On the Stick it was only slightly colored tan.
BTW, I only have 47 hours on the Tractor, but, she's coming up on three years since I took delivery.
I'm guessing age of the oil might be playing a factor here as well.

Like nybirdman stated, that diesel will blacken oil in just a few hours... Jet black in no time. Just change it on the correct schedule.
 
/ Not Even Close....
  • Thread Starter
#18  
I'm just concerned that even though I only have 47 hours on the Machine, this August will be three years since I took delivery.
The word is that you should dump your oil every 12 months regardless of Mileage.
I'll play it safe and change it again at around five hours.
Maybe just to give it a flush as I'm going with Synthetic 10w30 Mobil 1.

Concerning the Hydraulic & Trans fluid?
How much fluid am I going to lose by changing out only the filters?
I really don't want to play the unscrew the old and screw in the new one as fast as you can while it's blowing out.
I'm 61 years old and not as fast a youngster.
I have a Gallon of fluid on hand.
Will one Gallon cover me if I replace the two filters and let what comes out drain into the catch pan?

Thanks again,
 
/ Not Even Close....
  • Thread Starter
#19  
/ Not Even Close.... #20  
I'm just concerned that even though I only have 47 hours on the Machine, this August will be three years since I took delivery.
The word is that you should dump your oil every 12 months regardless of Mileage.
I'll play it safe and change it again at around five hours.
Maybe just to give it a flush as I'm going with Synthetic 10w30 Mobil 1.

Concerning the Hydraulic & Trans fluid?
How much fluid am I going to lose by changing out only the filters?
I really don't want to play the unscrew the old and screw in the new one as fast as you can while it's blowing out.
I'm 61 years old and not as fast a youngster.
I have a Gallon of fluid on hand.
Will one Gallon cover me if I replace the two filters and let what comes out drain into the catch pan?

Thanks again,

"Probably"!!
1. Oil (high viscosity) doesn't flow as fast as it looks like it does. (Made up numbers, but: We are use to seeing a 1/2" stream of water at (say) 5 gal/min when a 1/2" stream of oil might flow at (say) 2 quarts/min).
2. (I've heard) Some people put a shop vac on the oil fill tube (duct tape?) to draw a vacuum when they swap the oil filter and hardly lose a drop.

Remember: "My free advice is worth every penny!!" :2cents: Good luck.
 

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