NH 240TL loader Diverter valve

[6sunset6]

First question Does this belong here or in NH . I decided here because it may be useful for other machines.
Brand new machine. Ordered a diverter valve so I could have a choice up front. Dealer said this was a great valve. FASSE. Not cheap but none of them are. Well turns out the kit was for a JD but they though it would work with a little work. HA Turns out the 240TL design moved the loader arms in and packed all the hydraulic tubes right in front of the space where the QD would go. I fooled around for 3 days trying to find a spot mid mount. A lot of plumbing to get it to work. Then I saw a post on here with a different valve that looked a little better. Meant returning what I got and getting a pile of other stuff. Price was getting close. Then I remember a NH kit that was front mounted for a much bigger machine so I fooled around with that for a while. That is starting to look really good. Plumbing is simple. The only disconnect if the loader comes off is a cable connector, no hydraulics.
The factory and the dealer said they would both work with me. The factory has not gotten back yet I think I will go lean on the dealer. I only need some fittings and 4 hoses, a longer cable from the factory and a bracket ,thats me.
My bigest concern is the stress on the QD sticking out the front of the valve block. They may want a bulkhead bracket.

 

[kennyd]

Looks good, The post definatly belongs here IMHO.

 

[IslandTractor]

Looks like you have this diverter thing almost solved. There is an alternative which is to run a grapple from a rear remote. I did that with my grapple on my first tractor and found it perfectly satisfactory. I have a diverter valve now and it also works fine but I honestly don't find it to be any more convenient than using the rear remotes. If you already have a set of rear remotes you can hook up a grapple in minutes and save quite a chunk of change.

 

[6sunset6]

I have 2 rear remotes on my new machine but they are spoke for. One on the 3 point top and the other on the blower chute , Front for plow angle.
I an moving along. Dealer is supplying new fittings , I think. Factory is supplying extention cable . I modified the existing bracket and have the valve mounted.

 

[6sunset6]

Sent a list of parts to the dealer with prices I get them for. He said can you get them and I will reimburse you. I said can you make the hoses while I wait, vanilla ends. He said sure. So far so good.
The factory is supposed to send me an extention cable. Has weather proof connectors on each end.

 

[RickB]

Didn't have to lean on Ray too hard, did you?

 

[6sunset6]

Wow everybody knows everybody, Scary. Those guys at PPT have been really great.

 

[6sunset6]

Ordered Hyd fittings today. As always one part is on backorder. I could patch around it but that annoys me. Plus patches use NPT parts.
So I worked on the voltage and ground connections. Removed the right hand cowl cover easy 2 bolts in front and 2 that tied the right and left together.
Metric, Do not work over a grating. Ground was easy there is an unused pem nut in the frame right there. Metric add to the list 1 8mm bolt.
then I was scatching my head looking for a voltage connection. I even have the wiring schematic in the operators manual. I was still scratching when I looked at the parts kit that came with the valve. Magic 4 -5 different options for hooking up. I chose a wire spice and an in line fuse block. 10 amp fuse, mounted it down stream from a 15 amp fuse. I thought had no voltage when the ifnition key was off. should have checked it with a meter. All done all back together ,buttons work great (don't have extention cables to the valve yet) but the switches have power when the key is off. NUTS.
The valve was moving a little on top of the weld bead so I put a rubber pad under it. Done. The front guard rests on the valve when it's tilted foward . I could move the valve towards the middle but then it would be harder to reach the QD. They go where the red plugs are in the front of the valve.

 

[6sunset6]

This odd I posted this a couple of hours ago it never showed up Try again
Fasse valve install is finished. I like it. There is some possibility of damage up front. I will see how it goes. Can do a cover if required. The electrical did not come out right I will try again
I cannot attach a power point file which is where I did edit notes. I converted it to a .pdf and it cuts off the top where the notes are.
Point is tap feed for the diverter valve needs to shutoff with the ignition switch. Relay 3 third from the left second wire back from the front orange is the feed to the aux rear work lites. Relay powers that line when the key is on. Put the tap on it.

 

[horse7]

Did you price adding a remote vs. adding a hydraulic diverter like the Fasse? (don't know if you priced another remote, or if you could even add one to that particular tractor). I am curious if the Fasse is substantially cheaper than another remote-- 3rd one pushs 900 (installed) for me.

I have 2 remotes now and considering paying for a 3rd remote from NH (same dealer even!) or monkeying around and maybe or maybe not saving money by going with something like Fasse, or just using a mechanical solution that takes longer to get the job done. I'm inclined to go with the NH 3rd only because of time limitations, I'm pretty short of time for the next 18 months, and would rather spend the time moving forward than spending 20-30 hours saving a few hundred bucks.

 

[6sunset6]

The TC 34DA only takes 2 remote pairs. The TC35DA and up I assume takes 3. The Fasse diverter valve kit I bought was $600 and the Dealer made up $45 in parts and 4 hoses. Fasse had to send an extention cable.
I really like the selector button on the joy stick. Don't know if I answered your question.

 

[6sunset6]

Another missing reply Sent it gone somewhere.
The TC34DA only takes 2 remotes I got them when I bought the tractor $1500 for both. The Fasse diverter was $600 and a fair amount of figuiring out. But it came out all right and I really like the buttons on the joystick. There are two, one momentery and one toggle. I have an angle plow and a thumb on my bucket.
whoops well I said the same thing a little different.

 

[6sunset6]

I hate when I do this. I wrote this whole thing last night and forgot to submit.
So here it is again.
Yeoooow Was plowing snow , using toggle on the joystick to hold the diverter valve on for angle on the plow. All of a sudden the plow and everything else was 8 feet in the air. The LED on the joy stick was studdering. Seems like curl took over from angle and maybe I jerked back on the joystick. Got everything down , LED still studdering which let curl work but not the plow angle. Got it back to the barn , wiggled all the connectors and it seemed to go away. I have a couple of butt splices in the 12v supply. Ground return is a crimped on ring on a stud. Have to check that crimp as well. Think I will solder them and then wait and see.

 

[RickB]

From my viewpoint, adding a third rear remote to your TN/A is not a big deal. I have added maybe a half dozen additional valves to TN's over the years; I think all have been installed on-site regardless of whether the tractor was cabbed or open station. The sump return is simply a short external tube that is specific to the number of valve slices in the stack. It is to the right of your toplink storage bracket.

 

[6sunset6]

Ref two post back Studdering led. ( and sudden lack of control of diverter valve. Finally got to look at it after a while I found it. Ground. The point I used for ground looked like a good place , but it looks like it is a plate that is not tied down well somewhere else.
Does anyone know where the main chasis ground points are on a TC 34DA ?
Probably the same for 10 different models. Schematic shows 2 main ground lugs . I could probably find them but it is easier to ask when I am in for lunch.

 

[6sunset6]

Never mind Found the battery ground on the frame. Found another bolt on the frame. Ran jumber from Frame to my intermiitant stud. Fixed. Wonder why it ever worked at all.