Newly Rebuilt Tractor Overheating

/ Newly Rebuilt Tractor Overheating #21  
something similar. a few months ago my work ute would spew the coolant out violently out of the blue, no reason. top it off again and it was OK for a few days/week then do it again, pressure test etc all OK. long story short it was the coolant (radiator) cap on the engine was faulty. replace it and no more problems. have you the right cap/new one on it?
 
/ Newly Rebuilt Tractor Overheating #22  
Did you see my mention of questioning how the hoses are routed at the water pump? I dont think using the stock hoses it would be that easy that a guy could get them wrong but I guarantee it could be with a different set of hoses just saying stuff happens we need to think outside the box sometimes.
 
/ Newly Rebuilt Tractor Overheating
  • Thread Starter
#24  
OK yesterday I removed the new radiator, all hoses. Water pump is brand new and is not leaking and is turning so I don't know what could possibly be wrong with it, so I ruled that out. I back flushed the block from the connection at the head. I flowed water through the radiator and as quick as I put it in at the top it came out the bottom, so no radiator problem. I ran rags through all 3 hoses and could find not blockage or anything hanging up. I then put the torque wrench back on the head bolts and was able to turn each bolt 1/2 to 3/4 turn before it clicked off at 135lbs, which is 5lbs over what the manual calls for. I had torqued the heads with the sequence specified when I rebuilt the motor and did it in 3 steps like it instructed. I was surprised it turned that much. After putting everything back together I went out and mowed putting it in 4th gear 2nd in the automatic range and ran it up hill to put a hard load on it. I'm mowing with a Rhino 72" mower. Even under this heavy load the tractor would pick up speed going up hill, which it never did before and it never got past 175 degrees. The good news is it only spit about 1/2 inch of overflow into my over flow tank. 1st time it hasn't overflowed since the rebuild. I could only mow for 20 minutes but I pushed it hard for those 20 and it never overheated or pushed any fluid out, like it did before. I can only assume that It was leaking hot gas into the water jacket previously due to the head not being totally seated? I don't know what else could explain the change. I didn't find anything wrong. I'll know better in two weeks when I take it out to mow for an hour, in the heat of the day. I appreciate everyone's help and I'm hoping my overheating days are behind me. I wish I could get the factory head gasket that I originally tore off the motor, it was solid metal, not the metal/fiber the new ones are. I've never had a problem with heads blowing by a gasket but now I have so I'll remember to heat up and then re-tighten before going out and really starting to use the new motor.
 
/ Newly Rebuilt Tractor Overheating #25  
I know you've had a hard time with that tractor.I hope that you've got her fixed so, now all you have to do is operate it instead of operate on it..:D.. I wish you the best !! :thumbsup:
 
/ Newly Rebuilt Tractor Overheating #26  
I dont remember, did you check the block and head for trueness?
 
/ Newly Rebuilt Tractor Overheating #27  
Back in Reply #13 would have found that. Instead of the Cap releasing the Pressure and Coolant which was probly the cause for it to run hot. The Gauge would have shown pressure over 13psi. or whatever your Radiator Cap is rated. ;)
 
/ Newly Rebuilt Tractor Overheating #28  
Glad its getting better not worse! :thumbsup:

I am not a fan at all of the aftermarket chinese head gaskets but its what we have to work with. That amount of movement in the bolts is a lot its basically the difference between loose and tight. Now lets hope it didn't wash out the gasket.
 
/ Newly Rebuilt Tractor Overheating #29  
If it was mine I'd be checking the pressure in the Radiator and make sure it not building up. I wouldn't hold the Nation that the manufactured a Head Gasket in to be at fault. Warped Head /Cracked block or not Torgued properly surely will cause a prob. I don't recall ever having a problem with a Head Gasket that was the proper one for the Eng.
 
/ Newly Rebuilt Tractor Overheating #30  
Somebody must love wally world stuff then. :D j/k
 
/ Newly Rebuilt Tractor Overheating #31  
My Brother and Nephew works for Wally World. Personally hate the place.Only if I have to go there.It's a Fat Lady's Paradice!!I've seen Some???:shocked:Hahaaaaaa!!!!!!
 
/ Newly Rebuilt Tractor Overheating
  • Thread Starter
#32  
Head was planed when I had valve job done, perfectly flat. I checked the block with straight edge, before assembling and could not see any daylight with flashlight behind the straight edge so I assumed it was flat. The new head gaskets are very iffy compared to the stock solid metal gasket that comes from the factory. I never had overheating problems before installation of the new head gasket. I did the replacement of head gasket twice and it appears both times that was what was causing the overheat. I torqued the bolts per manual and actually cleaned the bolts off and used 5 micron nickel anti seize on them to make sure I had no binding up giving a false reading. That should have resulted in a tighter installation than if they were dry. I was thinking of over tightening but don't know how much is too much so I stayed with 135 ft lbs. I'm just hoping that the gasket holds now or I'm going to try to contact someone in Japan and see if I can get an original gasket from somewhere if I get back to overheating.
 
/ Newly Rebuilt Tractor Overheating #33  
I've never used anti seize on head bolts.Only a small amount of oil
 
/ Newly Rebuilt Tractor Overheating #34  
The Head Gasket did not come from fredrick's rite next door? Or Hoye?
 
/ Newly Rebuilt Tractor Overheating #35  
I am curious about your block is flat statement because these have wet sleeves and should sit about .005-.006" above the deck. Were they level with each other?

edit: Using a (.002") feeler gage under a good straight edge and pull on it is the best way. I guess light is a measure though whatever works? The liners need to be level w/each other and above deck or they wont crush properly on the fire rings is why I question that.

On blind holes like these moly lube,anti sieze or motor oil all are ok anything is better than dry you have to remember whatever is on the bolts can get in the oil though. (moly can plug a good oil filter and anti-sieze has bits of copper or aluminum so use sparingly) I wonder about a JD gasket? I guess a person could go look at one and compare it couldn't hurt. I know if I have my head off again I wont use a chinese gasket again if I can help it.
 
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/ Newly Rebuilt Tractor Overheating #36  
The new head gaskets are very iffy compared to the stock solid metal gasket that comes from the factory. I never had overheating problems before installation of the new head gasket.

To be clear- I didn't read all the way through but it does not sound like you are having an overheating issue... just a leaking head gasket issue. All of the temps I saw posted were well below overheating.

I highly doubt that the head gasket is the problem. For one- that is a VERY popular head gasket and this is the first time I can recall anyone having any problems with it. They have been made of the same material for as long as I can remember (at least a decade). The material is not inferior to the original Yanmar gaskets. In fact, I have several original Yanmar gaskets that are still in original Yanmar bags that are made of that same exact fiber material- not metal. You have another problem somewhere.

I didn't read all the way through but are you sure your torque wrench is calibrated correctly?
 
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/ Newly Rebuilt Tractor Overheating #37  
Aaron may have hit on something in that last sentence!

Sure your torque wrench actually put 130lbs on it? maybe it was still a little low and what you think is "overtorqueing" actually puts it in spec?
 
/ Newly Rebuilt Tractor Overheating #38  
1/2-3/4 turn on re-torque at any spec even close is imho the cause of insufficient clamping if clamping is the issue which from the info given sounds like it is. That could be torque wrench, binding threads, stretching bolts (doubtful), incorrect sequence, maybe some other things I am not thinking about...oh not enough protrusion above deck on liners...(still a clamp problem) my .002

He said it has improved after re-torque so maybe its all good now lets hope so. :thumbsup:
 

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