RichZ
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I find my brush hog is a good counterweight. Never lift something heavy without a counterweight.
Newbie terror, need experienced advice
- Thread starter Deepdrop
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K5lwq
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I would agree he has exceeded the limits of his current configuration but in no way has he reached the full capacity of his tractor. That is set with the pressure relief valve on the loader valve.
To maximize lift capacity one must have enough rear ballast to keep the rear tires firmly planted on the ground.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
The advantage of the bush hog is that they are long and stick out past the lift arms of the 3pt a good long distance. This gives extra leverage or "prying downward force".
The disadvantage of the bush hog is they stick way out there and in tight quarters and making turns, they bang into things. Example working up next to a building and you turn away sharply from that building, you need to be aware of the bush hog coming around and smacking into the building. The advantage of the bush hog or box blade as ballast, is that it is something you already own, and is a useful tool already on the tractor. And the advantage of a heavy ballast box is that it is tightly coupled to the tractor and you don't have to worry about it banging into something you didn't want to destroy.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
I agree with you, he is not exceeding his lift capacity of the loader, he just needs to have the proper ballast on the 3pt to operate the tractor safely. Of course he would not want to pick up these loads on a sideways slope of course. You still have to have common sense.
To those who responded to my post on this thread: The OP stated he had a CUT with loaded rear tires and what I assume to be a FEL with a grapple. He basically indicated that he did not have a 3PH attachment for use as a counterbalance. His questions were in regard to his current configuration. "How dangerous is this? Am I in imminent danger when this happens?".
My response was to his 'current configuration'...thus if his rear wheels are light or off the ground, he has exceeded limitations. And, Yes! That is dangerous.
Sure. He could buy/build/whatever something to use as a 3PH counterbalance, but none of that is relative to his "current configuration".
To Deepdrop: Buying addition attachments only makes sense if you have a long term use that can justify such a purchase. Buying a backhoe, just for counterbalance, without a long term need for one, is IMHO just not a good investment. The same goes for a box blade. While it may work well for a long gravel drive, will it work for your 'hills' on your property? Maybe renting something to be used short term that will do the job would make more sense than any outright purchase.
When I bought my CUT used, nearly 20 years ago, it came with a BrushHog. I have used it, but not at all in the last 3 years, and I do not see any current or future need, so that attachment will soon be up for sale.
My response was to his 'current configuration'...thus if his rear wheels are light or off the ground, he has exceeded limitations. And, Yes! That is dangerous.
Sure. He could buy/build/whatever something to use as a 3PH counterbalance, but none of that is relative to his "current configuration".
To Deepdrop: Buying addition attachments only makes sense if you have a long term use that can justify such a purchase. Buying a backhoe, just for counterbalance, without a long term need for one, is IMHO just not a good investment. The same goes for a box blade. While it may work well for a long gravel drive, will it work for your 'hills' on your property? Maybe renting something to be used short term that will do the job would make more sense than any outright purchase.
When I bought my CUT used, nearly 20 years ago, it came with a BrushHog. I have used it, but not at all in the last 3 years, and I do not see any current or future need, so that attachment will soon be up for sale.
Jim Nelson
Platinum Member
I think that the most important thing that we all have failed to mention is that time in the seat is the one and only way to learn about your tractor. You need to listen to the fundamental safety advise, but in the end, time in the seat is the only way to really learn what you are dealing with. You need to start slow and cautiously and work your way up to those rocks, trees,or ruts that are the reason for your purchase. They will wait for you to learn.
Big Barn
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Agreed! Hence also my advice on loaded direction of travel when working on slopes.
Diggin It
Super Star Member
Which fits in with post 46 above yours. Experience on YOUR particular machine and property. We can all relate what we've learned on our machines and property, but the OP and anyone reading will have to try the different suggestions on their own place.
airbiscuit
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If all the OP wants to do is gather wood and rocks, then a ballast box is in order - even better if it has PVC Pipe holes for carrying long handle tools, chain, an chainsaw sleeve and a receiver hitch. If he has any dirt work to do, or an additional aid for snow removal, then a Box Blade would useful beyond just weight.
K5lwq
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I agreed with your advice except I would not recommend a bigger tractor when he still has not utilized the one he has to it's potential. Certainly did not mean any disrespect.
