Newbie needs advice

[artp]

I tried to use my new box blade to smooth out a small area (80 X 200ft) in the back of my property that was rather rough and uneven so I could more easily use my new finish mower to maintain the property. I first set the rippers at maximum depth thinking that I needed to get down that deep. After working the ground for a while I noticed that although the rippers easily cut the sod, the sod got clogged in the box blade. I raised the box blade and that helped, but I still had large clods of sod all over the field-not the result I was looking for. I continued to work the ground for a couple of hours, but did not like the results. I had never used a box blade before. Was this the wrong implement to use? I have a small 4 ft tiller that I could use, but my CK30 has a 5ft wheel width so I am not sure that would do the trick. I also have a small disk that Dad used with the old Farmall Cub, but again it is only about 4ft wide so I don't know if that would work. Can you guys give me some advice here?

 

[JoelD]

If no rocks, then tiller sounds more like it based on what you've got at hand.

Maybe a york rake to rake out the sod clumps.

Me, I would runs back and forth with the box blade, criss crossing.

But I don't have the problem of grass, my affliction is rocks.

Wish I had your problem.

Once all tilled you could level out with box blade.

Joel

 

[quedogf94]

Make sure you cut your grass right before you use the box blade, it won't eliminate the problem, but it will greatly reduce it.

 

[artp]

Thanks, JoelD. I will give the tiller a try tonight. Like to get this done before the next rain.

 

[artp]

Thanks, quedogf94. I mowed about a week ago.

 

[Cyberroc]

It sounds like your sod has a really good root bed.

Back in my landscape days, when we were not going to harvest the sod prior to leveling we would box(pull up)-rake-box(level)-rake. It sounds like you have it broken up already, if you don't mind getting a rake, that might be your best bet.

You could always try the tiller, however if I remember correctly our tiller would not completely shred the sod and we would sometimes find dimples in the lawn later on. We always figured it was from decomp or settling of the sod clumps.

Good luck, let us know what you do and how it comes out!

 

[artp]

Cyberroc, dimples would be the least of my concerns. If my little tiller can break up the sod clumps, then hopefully the box blade would be able to finish the job. I was just wondering if I should have used a different implement to start with since the sod had a good root bed. I was just wanting to get a smoother surface for cutting with my finish mower.

 

[Cyberroc]

Softball sized dimples.

If you just want to get closer to level and since you already have the tiller, just start there and you should know quickly if it will do what you need.

I was going for what we were held to when rescaping someone's yard, which may be a little more than most will need.

Good Luck!
.
.

 

[Highbeam]

I have experience with your problem and I was able to beat it. If you want to level the ground you need to make the sod disappear, anything else and you will be fighting that sod like a big wad of carpet. You could scrape it up and load it into a remote low spot on your land which would steal the good topsoil and the green manure. I would not do this unless I was desperate.

The proper solution is to till the sod into the ground. You can till with a disc or you can till with a tiller. I've rented tillers and find them excellent at making sod disappear. It does not matter that your tiller is narrower than your machine unless you are trying to till right up beside a fence. Tilling is quite rewarding and pleasant on an HST machine. This activity demands a beverage.

So till the area once in each direction, rough grade with box scraper, till the area again, run through with subsoiler if desired, till again, then fine grade with box. The area will settle some and be soft so if this is to be grass then this would be the time to roll it.

The old grass and sod is still there but it is finely diced and mixed with soil. Larger areas will be better with a disc but the same principle of tilling the sod into the ground.

 

[artp]

Thanks, Highbeam. We just had a nice rain. As soon as the ground is fit I am getting out the tiller and see what I can do. BTW what beverage do you recommend? This is Bud country, but I should probably wait until I finish tilling.

 

[Highbeam]

Which beverage is quite a difficult question to answer. I am quite opposed to glass containers while working outside. So I use cans. I have a little time capsule going at my rural property where I started out with plain bud and then moved on to MGD. When working in the woods one of my favorite things to do is place the empty cans on a stub of branch against a tree trunk nice and high. Slip the stub into the can. Well the can weathers but remains identifiable and shiny for quite some time.

I'm also quite fond of that sweet iced tea in cans like nestea. Ice cold of course.

Tilling is so so easy and slow that you could probably lubricate your brain with one or two but you might want to wait until the end. It is always nice to walk over your tilled ground and smell the dirt.

 

[joe48]

DITTO WHAT HIGHBEAM SAYS. You may not have to till as many times or you may have to till more ,it all depends on how well the sod breaks up, the finer the better. If you have or can borrow a york rake with gauge wheels for final grading , you can have it smoothed out like a golf course.

I have experience with your problem and I was able to beat it. If you want to level the ground you need to make the sod disappear, anything else and you will be fighting that sod like a big wad of carpet. You could scrape it up and load it into a remote low spot on your land which would steal the good topsoil and the green manure. I would not do this unless I was desperate.

The proper solution is to till the sod into the ground. You can till with a disc or you can till with a tiller. I've rented tillers and find them excellent at making sod disappear. It does not matter that your tiller is narrower than your machine unless you are trying to till right up beside a fence. Tilling is quite rewarding and pleasant on an HST machine. This activity demands a beverage.

So till the area once in each direction, rough grade with box scraper, till the area again, run through with subsoiler if desired, till again, then fine grade with box. The area will settle some and be soft so if this is to be grass then this would be the time to roll it.

The old grass and sod is still there but it is finely diced and mixed with soil. Larger areas will be better with a disc but the same principle of tilling the sod into the ground.

 

[artp]

I tried using my old Ford 105 tiller, but the half shaft on the PTO hook up is too short so I would need to get a longer shaft. I do not know how much that might cost. Since the old tiller is much narrower than my tractor tire width, I will be leaving tracts as I till-no desirable. I am considering purchasing a new 5ft tiller. Cost? I have seen different brands here on TBN, but I would like input from some users on which brands might be best for my use. Is gear drive better than chain drive? I am only working on an acre of pasture now-nothing with heavy debris or rock. I may be putting in a small garden in the future-wife like home grown veggies. I posted this on another forum separately-do not know if that is better. Just would like some input for more experienced guys on this topic. Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[joe48]

artp,
Just search for tillers etc , there are a dozen threads at least.
That said my personal choice after research here and in the field talking to folks, was a KING KUTTER gear drive tiller.
They are gear drive, heavier (keeps it in hard rocky ground better)than most chain drives, slip clutch on most, relatively cheap for what you get. And available at all TSC stores at very good prices,especially if you catch a sale.
Do your maintenance and they'll take a beating(make sure to fill gearbox with 80w-90 good gear oil, gently tighten,the gear case cover bolts as they will leak if you don't.)
I have tilled heavy clay, brush, very stoney ground,(wear ear protection always,noisy!!) , old sod, and concrete waste dumped by the ready mix trucks. not a problem, well one bent bottom 3pt pin, not sure how that happened. I run a 48" behind a Kioti CK20HST, no problem, stalled tractor a couple times in very heavy clay, just slow down the HST.
Git r done, Joe

 

[artp]

Thanks everyone for your input. After looking around I decided on a 5ft Kioti tiller from my dealer last week and put it to work right away. After several passes I have the area worked up really well. We had several small showers so as soon as the ground dries out I will probably make one more pass with the tiller and then finish up with a few passes with the box blade. I plan to do the rest of the "rough" pasture later this summer-1st mower really close, 2nd use the rippers on the box blade to open the sod, 3rd several passes with the tiller and finally smooth everything out with the box blade.

 

[Egon]

Consider making a drag about 10 feet wide and as heavy as the materials you have at hand. Drag this over the area in multiple directions. Due to its length it will help smooth things much better than a box blade.

Leaving the tilled sod lay and dry out and then till again will also help reduce the amount of sod clumps left.

The main object is to do the job properly so its as smooth as possible before planting. This may take patience and time but pay off way later when mowing a silky smooth lawn. Your back will thank you!