Newbie 3 point question

PaulInMi · Dec 22, 2000

I took my 3pt mower off my new tractor today for the first time, in Michigan it wont see any use for another 4-5 months.
What am I supposed to do w/the lift arms? Am i supposed to tie them or something when there is no implement attached, or does everybody just let them swing. They seems to rub against the tires.
Thanks in advance. Happy Holidays.
PaulInMi

Anonymous Poster · Dec 22, 2000

Do not let the lift arms swing it will tear up the tires

get a bungy and hook it between the arms to hold them together this keeps the arms from chewing up the tires.

Bird · Dec 22, 2000

Paul, when you have an implement on the 3-point, doesn't it have some type of restraint to keep them from swinging too far to one side, i.e., turnbuckles, flat bar, chain, or something similar. It doesn't hurt for them to swing some, but you sure don't want to let them swing into the tires.
The bungee cord idea will work just fine.

Bird

Thomas · Dec 22, 2000

Paul,
Most dealer have a {geeze what do you call that item} same setup as you would hook up your mower to your 3pt,but it instead tow bar etc...they don't cost much and may serve as a also bumper.

Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

PaulInMi · Dec 22, 2000

Bird- It does have a sort of stabilizer on it, but I,m not sure if thats what is supposed to keep it from swinging...maybe I could post a picture.

Thanks for the speedy responses.

How about the top-link? Leave it on or take it off?

Edited by PaulInMi on 12/22/00 06:54 PM.

tsha · Dec 22, 2000

I don't know what kind of tractor you have, but on my B2150 the parts book shows a bunge hooked to little hoops on the inside of both lift arms. This keeps tension on the turnbuckles while there is no impliment on the back, plus when it is time to hook something up all you have to do is spread the arms apart. If you are working by yourself that might be tricky.

tsha · Dec 22, 2000

Tie the top link up or if you won't have an impliment back there for a while take it off to keep it out of the way. Also, when you are backing up to hook something up tie the top link up so you don't tear things up.

Bird · Dec 22, 2000

Paul, I always leave my top link on (just for convenience; you can take it off if you're not going to have any implement on the 3-point). On my B7100, I kept that top link pointed up and out of the way with a bungee cord. Now the B2710 has a clip to snap it into to hold it in the same position. I guess when I get the hydraulic top link, I'll have to go back to the bungee cord because it'll be too big in diameter to fit that clip, I think.

Bird

JackIL · Dec 23, 2000

Paul, Since you have the loader mounted and apparantly will leave it on over the winter to move snow, you will need some kind of rear ballast box or implement such as a heavy rear blade for overall tractor stability. Even if your rear tires have liquid or cast ballast installed, that won't reduce the load on the front axles when the loader is attached. Most manufacturers recommend an implement or box on the 3 point to reduce the front axle load and make steering easier when using a loader.

PaulInMi · Dec 23, 2000

jackIL
Thanks for the tip, when my new box blade gets delivered I,m gonna put that on for rear ballast. I guess I just wanted to take it off to see how it came off.
Happy Holidays.

rock · Dec 27, 2000

I too am a 3 point newbie. I just took the whole 3 point assembly off so I wouldn't damage it or anything I might hit while backing up. This winter I am using my BX2200 & loader to clear snow. Perhaps a rear counter weight would be a good idea.

1) Can someone point me at a 3 point counterweight "kit".
2) Perhaps I should just get a 3 point platform for general utility "moving and hauling stuff" and just weight it down when using the loader?
3) Perhaps I should just get a rear mounted scaper blade or plow for "finish work"?

Suggestions... recommendations...

Thanks!

Thomas · Dec 27, 2000

rock,
If you are considering rear counter weight than maybe a rear blade could be the best of both worlds for your needs.

I guess as you know I'm a strong believer in tire chains, {from yesterday 2wd tractors /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif}and with a good set of chains and little rear weight you should be all set useing your FEL removing snow....just my 2 cent worth. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Bird · Dec 27, 2000

Rock, looks like you about answered your own questions. I use my box blade for rear ballast most of the time, but the 3-point platform would be just fine, and easier to adjust the weight by adding to or subtracting from the load. I understand John Deere sells a ballast box; a little hard for me to imagine anyone "buying" one instead of just making one. I don't remember where to find them on the forum, but someone posted pictures of home made ones; just a small barrel with a steel rod through it to hook up to the lower links, fill it with concrete and insert a top link connector before the concrete dries.

Bird

DFB · Dec 27, 2000

hey bird I have the same reservation on using box scrapers as counterweights. Unless you had another use for it I wouldn't buy one just for that purpose. The weighted ballast box is factory recommended for proper use of the loader along with wheel weights.

john4nh · Dec 27, 2000

Seems like you would always have use for a blade or box-blade. Ive never seen any-one around here with a weight box, home made or otherwise. Doesnt mean there isnt any but Iam guessing its not real common. If your just moving snow (which I never get) doesnt seem like tipping would be much of a factor. On equipment Ive been on thats needed weight you end up looking like a cowboy bouncing around.. I would definitely have something on the back for counter weight regardless though..

Bird · Dec 27, 2000

DFB, you live in a different part of the country from me, so I'd agree that I wouldn't buy a box blade just for ballast if I didn't have other uses for it. It's just that in my part of the country, I don't think I know anyone who owns a tractor that doesn't also have a box blade; thought that was an essential piece of equipment./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif And on the Internet is the only place I've ever seen or even heard of the ballast boxes. I have no doubt they would serve the purpose if all you want is ballast on the rear end, but there's just so many other useful implements that will serve as ballast that I was quite surprised when I learned that people actually pay money for ballast boxes./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif Of course we don't play in the snow around here, but we do move the dirt around now and then./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Bird

gerard · Dec 27, 2000

I wouldn't do any loader work (even snow) without weight on the back. When I push back my banks with the loader I go forwards down a small incline. A full bucket lifted high going forwards downhill is just a recipe for your rear tires coming up. If you have much snow to move I'd get the scraper blade and let it do double duty - counterweight and snow mover. (It's also a lot more effective for moving snow than the bucket and can be had for about $500-$750). Unless ALL your property is totally flat it's a lot safer to have some weight on the back and I imagine most people will at some point have a use for either a scraper blade or a box blade.

DFB · Dec 27, 2000

Bird thats interesting about what you see in different parts of the country. Maybe manufactured 3pt steel boxes are something relatively new for compacts. I don't know. I do know that when some sort of steel box was needed back home they were always home built. I don't feel they're that expensive. They're less than 75.00. Convienence would outweigh the hassles of buying materials, concrete, mixing, forming, etc. for some and probably cost less too./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif You get more weight in a LOT smaller size. About 2'square vs 5'long and whatever wide. When your in tight quarters having something wider than the tractor on the back can be a real hassle. A loaded box can weigh over 800lbs. I used several forms of ballast when I had to move 200 yds of fill and the loaded box gave me more traction with less wheel spin for digging, no noticable bounce when driving, and absolutely no chance of tipping foward with a fully loaded bucket of fill at full lift. Couldn't do that with my blade or my rake as ballast and probably not with a box scraper sized for my tractor. Between the wifes stepdad's produce farm and the neighbors ex dairy farm there are 6 tractors and loads of implements but not one box scraper. Sure there's pro and con. Double duty and the wallet are factors to be considered too. Can't teach an old dog new tricks. Wifes' stepdad uses a 55 gallon drum filled with gravel on a home made carry all held down with chain and binders for ballast on his 3930 for snow plowing. To each their own. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif I think box blades are great attachments. So far I've not had a use for one.

Thomas · Dec 27, 2000

DFB,
If the frost keeps going down {as it has around here /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif} come spring time that rear blade of yours will come in handy for the ruts...yikes thats only 3 1/2 months a way....yep your right lets get thru winter first up here. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

DFB · Dec 27, 2000

Hey Thomas, Ahhh the spring mud season. Actually things aren't too bad there. My drive is pretty self healing. The gravel settles in well on its own. Used to have to comb over the ruts with a hand rake. /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif Not any more. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif The technique the town road commissioner uses is to grade the road over with a blade(road grader) then loosen and spread with the wheel rake. And of course the low man on the totem pole gets to ride the rake for ballast. /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif