New vs Used

[Red Chief]

I'm looking at purchasing my first ever tractor. I have 20 acres of pature land that I would like to keep mowed and I also want to have about 5 acres of wildlife food plots. I have had 5 acres dozed off and need to prepare it for planting. This 5 acres is on 250 acres of hunting land that I own approx. 60 miles from my house. With that being said I'm hoping that I can get by with a tractor small enough to haul back and forth. I have been to many different dealers in a 60 mile area checking prices on all brands. My question is seeing the prices of the new tractors would I be better off finding a tractor that is 2 or 3 years old? I have been lookling in the 35 hp area. Is this going to be large enough for what Im looking to do?

 

[whistlepig]

I'm looking at purchasing my first ever tractor. I have 20 acres of pature land that I would like to keep mowed and I also want to have about 5 acres of wildlife food plots. I have had 5 acres dozed off and need to prepare it for planting. This 5 acres is on 250 acres of hunting land that I own approx. 60 miles from my house. With that being said I'm hoping that I can get by with a tractor small enough to haul back and forth. I have been to many different dealers in a 60 mile area checking prices on all brands. My question is seeing the prices of the new tractors would I be better off finding a tractor that is 2 or 3 years old? I have been lookling in the 35 hp area. Is this going to be large enough for what Im looking to do?

I would think 35HP would be enough tractor. I had a MF135 diesel with about 35HP. It would handle the tasks you describe above easily. I tried the used tractor shopping route myself. It was very frustrating. Tractors with low hours and they were beat to death. I looked at dozens and all had damage from being ran in to something. Perhaps because of the area where I live. And the savings over new wasn't all that much. For $1,500 more I was able to buy new. Well kept and taken care of used tractors seem far and few between in my area.

 

[LBrown59]

I'm looking at purchasing my first ever tractor. I have 20 acres of pature land that I would like to keep mowed and I also want to have about 5 acres of wildlife food plots. I have had 5 acres dozed off and need to prepare it for planting. This 5 acres is on 250 acres of hunting land that I own approx. 60 miles from my house. With that being said I'm hoping that I can get by with a tractor small enough to haul back and forth. I have been to many different dealers in a 60 mile area checking prices on all brands. My question is seeing the prices of the new tractors would I be better off finding a tractor that is 2 or 3 years old? I have been lookling in the 35 hp area. Is this going to be large enough for what Im looking to do?

Go new : Used will eat your wallet in finance charges.

 

[flusher]

I'm looking at purchasing my first ever tractor. I have 20 acres of pature land that I would like to keep mowed and I also want to have about 5 acres of wildlife food plots. I have had 5 acres dozed off and need to prepare it for planting. This 5 acres is on 250 acres of hunting land that I own approx. 60 miles from my house. With that being said I'm hoping that I can get by with a tractor small enough to haul back and forth. I have been to many different dealers in a 60 mile area checking prices on all brands. My question is seeing the prices of the new tractors would I be better off finding a tractor that is 2 or 3 years old? I have been lookling in the 35 hp area. Is this going to be large enough for what Im looking to do?

With 35 pto hp, not engine hp, you could handle a medium duty 6-ft rotary mower (aka brush hog, slasher) and mow 20 acres in a good 10-hour day. And you could handle your food plot work (discing, seeding) with no problem.

A 2WD tractor with shuttle shift tranny would work and would save some up-front bucks.

A 16-ft flatbed two-axle trailer would be enough for transporting with an F150-size truck or even a full-size SUV.

I'd look for a used L-series Kubota, a JD 990, a Mahindra 4500, a Massey Ferguson MF-1547, or a New Holland TC 40.

 

[mattman]

I am also on the fence on wether to buy a new machine or a used one. Most tractors you find that are at a good price are well used. A low hour ,few year old tractor is almost as high as a new one. I am leaning towards a used one because I have some cash money to spend so finance charges would not bother me. Also a used tractor generally does not have sales tax to pay. I don't have a farm so I would have to pay sales tax on a new tractor. Sales tax will add a good amount of change to the purchase price. A new tractor does come with warranty that is a plus. You might find a used tractor with a little warranty remainig. If you find a good deal on a used tractor get it. If you take some time someone else will come along and grab it up. A lot of folks will jump at a good deal on the size tractor you are looking for.

 

[Soundguy]

Another option is to find a good used older tractor that you could leave on the other property.. something like a ford 600/601 series.. or more preferably, an 800/801 series. IE.. 840/841 or 850/851 or best yet.. 860/861.

The 8xx has a near 50 hp engine.. thus plenty of power... not too hard to find power steering onthe 01 series. an early 4 cyl 4000 will be virtually identicl tot he 801 series units. Alternatoely a good 3 cyl 2000/3000 wouldn't be bad either.

All these are small enough to haul with a 5' or 6' mower on a standard 16' 7000# car hauler with a regular 150/1500 pickup truck.

These machines can be used to mow the 20 ac.. just takes a good bit of seat time..Figure near 10-12 hours with a 5' mower to mow 20 ac.. depending on terain / obstacles.. etc... slash a lil time for 6'.. etc..

these machines can be found in the 2000-5000$ range.. with or without mowers.

soundguy

 

[wolc123]

I am seeing lots of panic selling now on used tractors, even mid and small 4wd's that were getting almost new prices just 6 months ago. Never in my lifetime have I seen such a buyer's market as we have right now. You will defintely want a 4wd if you are trailering as they generate a lot more pull per pound.

 

[newbury]

I am seeing lots of panic selling now on used tractors, even mid and small 4wd's that were getting almost new prices just 6 months ago. Never in my lifetime have I seen such a buyer's market as we have right now. You will defintely want a 4wd if you are trailering as they generate a lot more pull per pound.

If you are seeing a lot of panic selling please start a thread and give us some links. I'm in the panic buying mode.
thanks

 

[jk96]

A 2WD tractor with shuttle shift tranny would work and would save some up-front bucks.

Get 4wd. I can't imagine buying a tractor w/o it. I couldn't begin to think how many times I'd be stuck or at least much less productive, especially if your doing loader/grapple work. A decent load of dirt or gravel will reduce the traction of your rear wheels significantly even with loaded tires.

 

[Z-Michigan]

Get 4wd. I can't imagine buying a tractor w/o it. I couldn't begin to think how many times I'd be stuck or at least much less productive, especially if your doing loader/grapple work. A decent load of dirt or gravel will reduce the traction of your rear wheels significantly even with loaded tires.

Oh, the endless debate. Here's my quick and simple rule of thumb:

Getting a 40hp or larger utility (not CUT) and using it for field or mowing tasks in a fairly flat area, little or no loader work: 2wd is fine.

Any significant slopes, serious mud, lots of loader work, moving earth, any real tasks other than mowing with a tractor under 30hp: 4wd makes a big difference.

IMHO, 2wd makes sense for mowing, hay work, pulling around grain bins, and a few other farm tasks. If you're not a farmer and the tractor will be used for anything besides mowing, 4wd is very useful or even essential.

 

[WilliamBos]

IMHO, 2wd makes sense for mowing, hay work, pulling around grain bins, and a few other farm tasks. If you're not a farmer and the tractor will be used for anything besides mowing, 4wd is very useful or even essential.

I agree totally. 2wd shines in hay work, nothing beats the tighter turning radius of a 2wd. They still have a place.

 

[RadarTech]

Tight Turning radius?
I thought that was why we had individual brakes ?


Jim

 

[Botabill]

I'm looking at purchasing my first ever tractor. I have 20 acres of pature land that I would like to keep mowed and I also want to have about 5 acres of wildlife food plots. I have had 5 acres dozed off and need to prepare it for planting. This 5 acres is on 250 acres of hunting land that I own approx. 60 miles from my house. With that being said I'm hoping that I can get by with a tractor small enough to haul back and forth. I have been to many different dealers in a 60 mile area checking prices on all brands. My question is seeing the prices of the new tractors would I be better off finding a tractor that is 2 or 3 years old? I have been lookling in the 35 hp area. Is this going to be large enough for what Im looking to do?

Should you buy new or used? If you are a fussy person who will dote on and care for their machines hoping to make them last for a life time; a new machine is what you should get. If you are a sloppy or a not obsessed owner who doesn't really dote on a machine then a used one may be fine. Yes the previous owner could very well have abused the machine but you won't worry about it. Some folks get lucky and buy a used babied machine that is CHEAP and like new. That's the one we'd all like to get.

 

[Soundguy]

Get 4wd. I can't imagine buying a tractor w/o it. I couldn't begin to think how many times I'd be stuck or at least much less productive, especially if your doing loader/grapple work. A decent load of dirt or gravel will reduce the traction of your rear wheels significantly even with loaded tires.

rear counterweight helps that 'unloading' problem a 2wd might experience.

As a previous poster pointed out.. choose a tractor drive train by application.. not all applications require 4wd. Ironically.. the only tractors i've -ever- been stuck in were 4wd..

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

Tight Turning radius?
I thought that was why we had individual brakes ?


Jim

gotta love them turning brakes.

kinda hard on the sod though!

soundguy

 

[George in Spokane]

I was in a similar situation. I think new is the way to go under 40hp. Resale values are just too high for the small machines.

The whole point in buying is that you are fed up with your 8N or MF35 breaking down . Why buy someone else's problems to save 10%?

For some reason resale value is low on the bigger machines and people with bigger machines seem more responsible and experienced in taking care of them.

 

[Soundguy]

The whole point in buying is that you are fed up with your 8N or MF35 breaking down

If the 8n/mf35 broke down due to lack of maint.. then the new machine won't be far behind...

Why buy someone else's problems to save 10%?

10% I can Buy those antiques you mention for 1500$ to 4500$.. are you saying you can get new durable CUT's for 1650$ - 4950$ .. maybee chinese.. but then... is that an upgrade? going from a mf 35 to a similar hp chinese unit? I'd stick with the 35 myself...

soundguy

 

[Farmwithjunk]

There's a certain "elitist" attitude that shows up from time to time that states new never breaks and old is automatically junk and unreliable. BA-LON-EEEEEE!

I've got 3 newer tractors now. I've owned, at various times in my life, 8 different NEW tractors. I own 4 older "used" tractors now and have owned literally dozens over the years. I feel I have a good grip on what is reliable, what is practical, and what you can expect from NEW OR OLD.

The most reliable tractor I own now is 38 years old.

The most expensive tractor I've EVER owned, as far as routine maintenance and "per hour operating cost" is one of my newest.

Now don't take THAT wrong either. I'm not saying ALL new tractors are unreliable, or are costly to operate. And I'm sure not saying ALL old tractors are bullit proof and stone reliable. But....You can find GOOD, reliable, economical used tractors at a fraction of new cost. I pay cash for tractors when I buy. Special finance rates don't come in to play. Even so, when I buy used, I look for deals that exceed what a low interest rate on a new tractor could save me anyway. Those deals are out there. You just have to pound the bricks looking sometimes.

If you NEED new, or can justify the cost, there's nothing quite like new. But if you're like a lot of us, and want the absolute most for your money, look at ALL deals with open eyes. If you find a nice used tractor that'll do the job, and the price is right. Go for it!

I farmed almost 200 acres for close to 40 years with 60hp as my biggest tractor. I maintain 45 acres now with a tractor that rolled off the assembly line @ 38 hp. (Gotta be up front with that one.... It's been "breathed on" and dynos 47hp now) My dad farmed almost 300 acres and never owned a tractor any bigger than 32hp.

Look for 35 to 45 hp tractors from late 60's through early 80's. They can be found in the neighborhood of $4000 to $6000 with years of dependable service left in them. My '71 Massey Ferguson 150 will outlast me at the rate it's going relative to the way I'm holding up.....

 

[WilliamBos]

There's a certain "elitist" attitude that shows up from time to time that states new never breaks and old is automatically junk and unreliable. BA-LON-EEEEEE!

I've got 3 newer tractors now. I've owned, at various times in my life, 8 different NEW tractors. I own 4 older "used" tractors now and have owned literally dozens over the years. I feel I have a good grip on what is reliable, what is practical, and what you can expect from NEW OR OLD.

The most reliable tractor I own now is 38 years old.

The most expensive tractor I've EVER owned, as far as routine maintenance and "per hour operating cost" is one of my newest.

Now don't take THAT wrong either. I'm not saying ALL new tractors are unreliable, or are costly to operate. And I'm sure not saying ALL old tractors are bullit proof and stone reliable. But....You can find GOOD, reliable, economical used tractors at a fraction of new cost. I pay cash for tractors when I buy. Special finance rates don't come in to play. Even so, when I buy used, I look for deals that exceed what a low interest rate on a new tractor could save me anyway. Those deals are out there. You just have to pound the bricks looking sometimes.

If you NEED new, or can justify the cost, there's nothing quite like new. But if you're like a lot of us, and want the absolute most for your money, look at ALL deals with open eyes. If you find a nice used tractor that'll do the job, and the price is right. Go for it!

I farmed almost 200 acres for close to 40 years with 60hp as my biggest tractor. I maintain 45 acres now with a tractor that rolled off the assembly line @ 38 hp. (Gotta be up front with that one.... It's been "breathed on" and dynos 47hp now) My dad farmed almost 300 acres and never owned a tractor any bigger than 32hp.

Look for 35 to 45 hp tractors from late 60's through early 80's. They can be found in the neighborhood of $4000 to $6000 with years of dependable service left in them. My '71 Massey Ferguson 150 will outlast me at the rate it's going relative to the way I'm holding up.....

All excellent points Bill. Yes, this coming from a guy with a New compact in his sig, but if we could have found an MF compact priced cheap we would have bought it. A local Dealer wanted $9K for a MF 1010 compact, so for us a new one was really a no brainer.

Look around before you buy, you may be amazed at what you can find, even more HP than you may need for less money.

 

[wwalkersd]

rear counterweight helps that 'unloading' problem a 2wd might experience.

As a previous poster pointed out.. choose a tractor drive train by application.. not all applications require 4wd. Ironically.. the only tractors i've -ever- been stuck in were 4wd..

soundguy

Not always. I picked up a pallet load of sand bags using QA pallet forks on my JD 4320 with a 1000 lb. Red Master II arena harrow on the back, and still found I needed 4WD to back up a not-very-steep gravel driveway (no way to turn around).