New trailer needs a lift, help

[JohnJohn]

I just purchased an 18 foot dove tail trailer. Well actually I got in for free but that is another story.

Here is a link to the trailer http://www.bigtextrailers.com/spec/70ch.html

The problem is when I back the tractor off of the trailer the dove tail actually bottoms out on the ground. I broke one of the lights off all ready.
The dove tale and the trailer stand actually hit the gravel when I trailer down gravel roads with a hump in the center.

My hitch on the truck could be an inch lower but I dont think lowering my hitch one inch will fix these problems.

I called the trailer dealer and the trailer manufacturer and both have never but a lift on an equipment trailer.

I know I can fabricate something to put a lift to the trailer about 4" higher but has anyone else run into this situation and what did you do about it?

Oh ya... the manufacturer recommended a rear crutch. He said it was a piece of metal that flips down and prevents the trailer from compressing all the way down. This would fix one problem but I still want the trailer up 4" higher.

 

[RobS]

If your axles are the usual Dexters with springs UNDER them, you can have them flipped so the axles sit under the springs. You'll gain the diameter of the axle tube plus the thickness of the spring pack. We had this done to our camper to better match the height of the truck. Are you sure you want the whole trailer higher though?

/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[JohnJohn]

Well I all ready thought of one fix. I have 2"X4" slots all over the sides of the trailer to hold side boarding.
I could put a 2 foot piece of 2"x4" steel through the rear slots, drill out and put a pin through the steel to act as crutches. This would prevent the trailer from bottoming out when I back off.

Guess I will have to fabricate a lift kit for the rest of the trailer.

 

[8561]

I throw a piece of 6x6 under the rear of the trailer between the ramps when I load/unload my dovetail trailer. The trailer frame hits the wood block and stops.

 

[JohnJohn]

Rob,
I am going to look at the trailer tonight to see if I can put the axels under the leaf springs.

That may help just enough.

I do want the whole trailer up. I drove down a gravel road the other day and the rear center of the dove tail and the trailer jack were both hitting the gravel. The whole thing needs to go up.

The good part is I just picked up a used F-250 extended cab full length bed with a 460 engine from a friend. It pulls very nice but forget the gas mileage.

 

[Soundguy]

As you've figured out.. most of us carry a piece of lumber to throw undere the rear of the trailer when loading / unloading to keep the trailer from squatting.

I'd look into spring arangement with the axles. Not sure that you can get any real 'body' lifts though.. I would'nt want to be cutting and re-welding the spring shackles

Soundguy

 

[Marine1]

This is a little off subject, but it still has to do with trailers. I was wondering if anyone has put there CUT on a cattle trailer? I am considering this for my TC25 with FEL and rear mower. I really don't want to buy two GN trailers. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif Do you think a cattle trailer will have the same problems as descibed by JohnJohn?
My ROP is foldable and will fit in a 6' wide trailer.
Is this even safe?

 

[ronjhall]

John
I have the same model trailer only its a 16'er. I added two 5000 pound jacks to the rear end of my trailer to stop the drop. It also allows me to load and unload the tractor to trailer without having trailer hooked to a tow vehicle. I also use the jacks to raise tires off the ground when I'm not using it.
I have attached a picture of one of the jacks.

 

[Jimbrown]

I have a 14 ft stock trailer I have put my BX22 in it several times. I have to fold the ROPS and if I leave the hoe on I have to remove the back door. but it pulls just fine.

 

[Marine1]

Jim, did you have to beef up the floor of your trailer? I was thinking that the weight of the tractor is more compact in space than an equal weight in steers. I'd hate to have a 8 wheel 4 axle trailer if you know what I mean. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Nat]

John John, Don't just put the axles under the springs to raise the trailer. The axles are built with a certain amount of arch so they settle straight under load. You will need to weld new spring perchs on top of your axle to keep the arch in the correct position and to keep the adjustment hole for the brakes from being hidden behind the springs.
I would bet that you can weld a stiff leg on both ramps that is an inch or so off the ground when you let the ramps down, then they will hit the ground as you drive the tractor off. With the tractor off the trailer the stiff leggs will then be clear of the ground so you can raise the ramps, Later Nat

 

[Kytractor]

Johnjohn, I recently purchased a 20 ft. PJ trailer. I had two choices on the lot. One an 18ft. 2 ft. dovetail, with ramps that are spring loaded on the back. The other a 20ft. straight bed with two jacks, one on each side of the rear of the trailer. I wanted the dove tail but my brotherinlaw who has a lot of experinces with trailers and equipment recommended the straight because of the hilly area that I live in. So thats what I got. I noticed on the dovetail, that the ramps had a v under them so that the dovetail would not hit the ground when loading, that may be a thought for you if your ramps does not have that. Or like some one else said install a jack on each side of the rear of the trailer. Mine has a pin that I pull out and rotate the jack down and then put the pin back and lower the jack. When finished I rotate the jack back side ways with the trailer and put the pin back in and it just stays there. Hope that helps.