New to me TC29D cranks & won’t start

[CalienteJohn]

Long time reader first time poster. Please correct if in the wrong location etc

Just bought a new holland TC29D With supposed yanmar loader 1,100 hours “won’t start as is $4,000 with fuel to haul it home.

Initial testing it cranks but no smoke from exhaust, dirty filter and fuel didn’t smell right. When cranking no smoke from exhaust

Drained tank completely (was full) cleaned sediment bowl and replaced fuel filter.

Verified fuel flow is good from tank and after filter to pump

Verified fuel solenoid is functioning

Bleed air from fuel system according to instructions here for related tractors. Fuel flow from injector lines was small spirts that seem consistent.

Cranks and now smokes from exhaust when cranking and also smoke from oil filler breather tube.

Still won’t start

Verified that glow plugs are at least cycling, dash light cycles with key and voltage is present at glow plug buss bar or whatever it’s called. Voltage at buss bar was only like 11V while battery was on charge same time and at 13.4V..

Plugs only cycle for a few seconds

Central California 70 degree temps

Thank you very much for any help and time given it is appreciated.

I’ll post updates

 

[spitter]

Do a compression test. Smoke from the oil fill indicates blowby. Hit with some either to try to get it started. Sounds like low compression. You got fuel,Air, and power.

 

[nyone]

Check for high pressure fuel at the injectors. You could also give it a sniff of starting fluid.

 

[5030]

Just a slight sniff and no more. Sounds to me like internal engine issues. Hope you didn't pay too much for it. It looks to be run hard and put away wet, more than once.

 

[CalienteJohn]

Crap
That’s not what I was hoping to hear
Do I compression test from the glow plug holes or ?

My diesel knowledge is very limited. Purchased because of the low hours and it looks to be fairly clean and complete.

I was hoping fresh fuel and a bat charge would get it going. Trying to get a tractor for my small family ranch… this would be perfect

 

[CalienteJohn]

The fuel from injector lines when cracked to bleed was low pressure it seemed to me. Small repetitive spurts not big sprays…

What is a small sniff of ether lol, like small a spray as I can almost or ?
And directly into the intake while cranking or ?
Thank you everyone for the help

 

[CalienteJohn]

I paid $4,000 which I thought was a decent price in hind sight though maybe not.
I’m in AG country and prices for even beat up old tractors hold good value.

 

[dieselscout80]

Check for high pressure fuel at the injectors. You could also give it a sniff of starting fluid.

Only give it stating fluid if you have disabled the glow plugs.

I would try it after the glow plugs are disconnected.

 

[Harry in Ky]

I paid $4,000 which I thought was a decent price in hind sight though maybe not.
I’m in AG country and prices for even beat up old tractors hold good value.

A 4WD tractor w/loader for that price is going to have problems somewhere, and it looks like you found one already. I'm ASSUMING here that you bought this long distance and never heard it run? If it's a gear drive tractor you might have better luck tow starting it considering the circumstances. If it's hydrostatic you may be in for a fight.

 

[CalienteJohn]

A 4WD tractor w/loader for that price is going to have problems somewhere, and it looks like you found one already. I'm ASSUMING here that you bought this long distance and never heard it run? If it's a gear drive tractor you might have better luck tow starting it considering the circumstances. If it's hydrostatic you may be in for a fight.

Correct. Tractor was at auctions for a VETERAN CAR DONATIONS auction all funds to that charity. Newer tractor hydrostatic trans.

I figured being donated for vets MAYBE someone had just given up on it and it may be an easy fix fresh fuel & filter battery etc. and that the funds went toward helping vets I thought it was worth a chance.

My small family ranch could absolutely use a decent tractor. We have a 60’s ford gas guzzler tractor with a Massey Ferguson backhoe that has been ridden hard put away wet and covered in mud soaking wet hot nasty oily and dirty and STILL works after decades…

 

[CalienteJohn]

Gave it a sniff of either tonight after work, then a whiff, then a spray without filter in place…
Nothing
I Will compression test this weekend if time permits
Thank you everyone. Not what I want to hear but the truth hurts.

Thoughts everyone please!
Look into fuel pressure or no
Try to fix current motor
New motor
Cut bait!?!

 

[Harry in Ky]

You saw smoke and vapor out of the breather while cranking? If that's the case, added to the "no start", it's a bad sign. I'd pull the hose off the intake manifold and look closely for signs of dirt ingestion. A compression test would confirm your suspicions, but it probably isn't necessary.

Finding a used motor will be a challenge. People are on forums every day looking for things like this that just don't come for sale when you need one. If the basics (block, head, crank) are still serviceable then repairing what you have is more likely a better option.

 

[the old grind]

After sitting a while, set the the throttle 1/3-1/2 way up & cycle the GPs 2-3 times before cranking. (I do it regularly on two also 20+ YO Shibauras. lol)

A continuity test of each GP separately can tell you if they're working or not & $10 volt/ohm meter set to 25 or 50 ohm scale will get you there. GPs are all or nothing like light bulbs & fuses. (you knew that )

btw, a simple load test can show if the relay is delivering full current to the GPs, if they're drawing it.

 

[spitter]

If you go on you tube, there are some very good videos that will walk you through doing a compression test. Search [Tractor compression test]. Long Lane Tractor in Elizabethtown PA is a NH graveyard who usually has a good stock of that vintage parts. Very honest people very helpful If you have to go that route.

 

[CalienteJohn]

After sitting a while, set the the throttle 1/3-1/2 way up & cycle the GPs 2-3 times before cranking. (I do it regularly on two also 20+ YO Shibauras. lol)

A continuity test of each GP separately can tell you if they're working or not & $10 volt/ohm meter set to 25 or 50 ohm scale will get you there. GPs are all or nothing like light bulbs & fuses. (you knew that )

btw, a simple load test can show if the relay is delivering full current to the GPs, if they're drawing it.

I’ll try the 1/3 to 1/2 throttle
I’ve already cycled GPs 2-3 times before cranking but with throttle between 1/2 & full each time. I also have a basic multimeter and know how to use basic voltage and continuity functions. Will find a video to help me figure out how to GP test and how to load test them..

Isn’t continuity and ohm setting different on multimeter?

Also, Is a load test done with a multimeter as well?

 

[CalienteJohn]

If you go on you tube, there are some very good videos that will walk you through doing a compression test. Search [Tractor compression test]. Long Lane Tractor in Elizabethtown PA is a NH graveyard who usually has a good stock of that vintage parts. Very honest people very helpful If you have to go that route.

The video on YouTube university I watched showed testing compression at glow plug holes individually and with battery on charger
Is this proper procedure?

Also thank you for the tip on Long Lane Tractors SPITTER. I appreciate it
Thank you everyone

 

[CalienteJohn]

You saw smoke and vapor out of the breather while cranking? If that's the case, added to the "no start", it's a bad sign. I'd pull the hose off the intake manifold and look closely for signs of dirt ingestion. A compression test would confirm your suspicions, but it probably isn't necessary.

Finding a used motor will be a challenge. People are on forums every day looking for things like this that just don't come for sale when you need one. If the basics (block, head, crank) are still serviceable then repairing what you have is more likely a better option.

Correct vapor/smoke from breather when cranking multiple times..

I will pull intake manifold apart and inspect for dirt ingestion as recommended.

I think I’ll hold off on compression testing for now and move forward on glow plugs testing first.

As far as the basics go (block head crank etc) can I determine serviceability for any of those myself?

I will give it a good cleaning today also to see block and head better as well as clean off glow plugs etc to work on.

I’ll post updates and read back over posts again make sure I didn’t miss anything. THANK YOU EVERYONE

 

[WranglerX]

Isn’t continuity and ohm setting different on multimeter?

"Continuity" is measured in "ohms".... Resistance is also measured in ohms....

 

[CalienteJohn]

"Continuity" is measured in "ohms".... Resistance is also measured in ohms....

I proved my knowledge with the ohm meter in one simple sentence lol. Or lack of knowledge better yet haha but I’m learning and greatly appreciate that there’s no sarcasm or rude people here only helpful friendly info. THANK YOU EVERYONE

 

[nyone]

Checking the GP is a good test. I know some Japanese engines need them even when its 95* out.