I bought a very similar Ford tractor model under exactly the same circumstances. Turns out the Ford fuel flow lever at the filter in the motor compartment points 90 degrees off of the direction for flow. The fuel was shut off. 2 minutes after I paid the guy, I turned the valve and drove it onto the trailer. Only his wife was mad...
1100 hours, something just isn't adding up (although the hours may not be real).
If you need a ridge reamer and new rings, then you likely will also need new pistons, and honing or boring the cylinders. A big top end job. I'm not saying that isn't the answer, but I wouldn't jump right to that conclusion.
If you go down that path, eventually you'll need to remove the head, and inspect the head, head gasket, valves, and cylinders.
On some vehicles, faults are also noted under the valve cover (tight tappets, bad valves, lifters, etc).
Like
@zzvyb6, I just bought a non-running Landini at auction for literally pennies on the dollar. I'm still a bit annoyed. Somebody had cannibalized the battery, dip stick, fuel pump, and alternator. And it only starts with jumping the starter solenoid. The cannibalized fuel pump means the auction house had no chance of getting it started. And the value of the cannibalized parts wasn't that high, just annoying.
In my testing I found the fuel shutoff switch, I thought it was supposed to be parallel with the line, but nope... straight down at 90° from the line (probably my fault). In my case, it would start and run very well for 10 seconds then die. It became obvious when I pulled the fuel line from the fuel pump to the injection pump, and got inconsistent flow.
It also seems to have the shutoff solenoid on the injection pump intermittently working (need to listen for the click when I turn the key, otherwise it absolutely won't start). More diagnostics on that soon.
Thus, a combination of little faults sent the tractor to auction as non-running.
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Anyway, on
@CalienteJohn's tractor, I'd go back and review all the simple things. Try a leak down test if you wish. Double check that the fuel, ignition circuit, and injection pump are all working. You can even pull an injector and watch it spray when you crank it over if you wish.
Don't believe every test result you see.
Does it sound reasonably normal with compression when cranking it over?
I usually run my glow plugs on my Ford for about 30 seconds. There is a little inline coil that is supposed to glow, but it broke in half, and half of it reconnected in 2008, and it only gives a dull glow after about 30 seconds.
My CAT... it has a little chart on it. But based on temperatures, glow plugs for about 60 seconds, 30 is definitely not enough.
Manual glow plug switch on the Ford and CAT, and I count to myself to 30 or 60.
If you have a place in the intake manifold that you can't melt, blow either a hot hair dryer or heat gun directly into the intake manifold when cranking it over and attempting to start it.
