New to me TC29D cranks & won’t start

[LouNY]

So a basic block looks to be $4600

 

[CalienteJohn]

I mentioned condensation in fuel lines in a previous post. My BTDT with TCs is that there is a spill cup with a drain hose around the filler and under the hood. Tree duff can clog the drain and rain water will fill the cup above the rim of the cap.

This will by thermal expansion of air/vapor in the tank to siphon that water into the tank where it will settle as expected. I've had to thaw lines to clear them twice. (not tarped in Winter back then, Doh!) My prevention is to remove the cup (1) and/or close the hood on a rag or bag (another 1) to overlap the cup accordingly & keep detritus or water from building up in it.

Prior storage can have as much effect as prior maintenance on how quickly a long-parked tractor starts up, how well it runs, or whether it needs serious work. (o/haul. short block, etc)

btw, while my manuals are for the newer DAs the wiring is pretty much the same, as are most of the mechanicals. Did we ask what the hours are or which FEL? (7308?)

I drained the full tank that was in the tractor with the thought of moisture in mind. I will remove the cup and cover with a rubber floor mat or something of the like for storage.

Copy that on the manuals thank you for the offer! Hour meter only reads 1136 or something low like that.

Front end loader decals are painted over but the controls say it’s a yanmar and looks to be a nice one but I’m used to older tractors 90’s and older vintage though…

 

[D&D]

I drained the full tank that was in the tractor with the thought of moisture in mind. I will remove the cup and cover with a rubber floor mat or something of the like for storage.

Copy that on the manuals thank you for the offer! Hour meter only reads 1136 or something low like that.

Front end loader decals are painted over but the controls say it’s a yanmar and looks to be a nice one but I’m used to older tractors 90’s and older vintage though…

If this were me, I would use oldgrind‘s advise coupled with the pumpguysc. You bled the tank, now bleed the rest out to the injectors. Then do a cheap injector test to see if they spray or squirt. Then I would load test the battery. If the amps are low, the starter won’t spin fast enough and you will get a low compression reading.

 

[Bansil]

Not much to add but I have always removed all plugs or glow plugs before testing so engine spins faster and no chance of starting.

Rings could be..."washed" that's the term I know and can be glassed from no load at break-in of new engine or grit has done the same.

Do you have a bore scope? To look for cylinder scratches or piston carbon buildup?

Maybe putting 1/3 of a cup of marvel mystery oil in each cylinders, let sit 24 hrs and turn engine over 1/2 a revolution may help to unstuck the rings?

Maybe stuck valve or broken spring?

The valve seats may be worn and leaking?

Just spitting ideas..good luck

 

[CalienteJohn]

Oil smells ok to a neighbor and myself. No significant diesel smell to it

I’m thinking new rings at least as most are mentioning.

Rings can be replaced without “splitting the tractor”?

CAN rings be replaced by a home mechanic (me) with good assistance from online (YouTube and all of you great people!)

I see someone mentioned a basic block for near $5k

Rings and a head gasket will be a much more reasonable rout right??

So at this point I’m starting some good cleaning and I got the front bucket off to make it easier to move tractor into our small shop

Anyone have a good YouTube video they’d recommend towards rings or rebuilding or anything strongly recommended? I’ve had valve cover and head off of another tractor so I’ve been at least to piston heads on another tractor and have a basic understanding of what to do. I watch motortrend channel haha

 

[the old grind]

To do rings you'd remove the head, drop the oil pan, unbolt the rod caps (while fussing about order/orientation of those and bearings) and pull the pistons out the top. No need to split.

So as for DIY, save big bucks if you can find the right kit (enuf vs o/haul) and don't mind making a fair mess while putting something back together hospital-clean.

Anyway I bet you could do that.

 

[MTGreen]

Oil smells ok to a neighbor and myself. No significant diesel smell to it

I’m thinking new rings at least as most are mentioning.

Rings can be replaced without “splitting the tractor”?

CAN rings be replaced by a home mechanic (me) with good assistance from online (YouTube and all of you great people!)

I see someone mentioned a basic block for near $5k

Rings and a head gasket will be a much more reasonable rout right??

So at this point I’m starting some good cleaning and I got the front bucket off to make it easier to move tractor into our small shop

Anyone have a good YouTube video they’d recommend towards rings or rebuilding or anything strongly recommended? I’ve had valve cover and head off of another tractor so I’ve been at least to piston heads on another tractor and have a basic understanding of what to do. I watch motortrend channel haha

If you've pulled a head off you can certainly do the job. You'll need a torque wrench and a ring compressor or appropriately sized band clamp.
You'll need to buy at minimum a ring set (obviously), a head gasket, an oil pan gasket, a tube of assembly lube, possibly intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, and you can consider new rod bearings but at 1100hrs that's probably not necessary so long as you are **** about locations and orientations of ALL individual parts.
Suggest you do one piston at a time to keep everything straight

 

[nyone]

Smell the oil from the dipstick. If it smells like diesel either that seal is leaking or it's been cranked for a long time with rings not sealing

This smell the oil test dosnt really work. Every engine I have ever smelled the oil on smelled a bit like the fuel it burned.

Since your cylinders are all in the same range and all low I would put a second gauge on and re test.

Also unless your going to do a leak down test your just guessing on what parts it needs. Yes you may put rings in it and it will start but that dosnt really mean you have fixed it.

 

[thepumpguysc]

IDK if your aware of it or not but u have to pay attention which way the pistons go in..
Some will have an arrow on them, but u still have to know which way the arrow goes..
Also, mark your rod and rod caps 1/1, 2/2, 3/3..
U might wanna buy some “plasti-gauge”., to get the correct rod bearings..
(Google it)
Good luck

 

[CalienteJohn]

If you've pulled a head off you can certainly do the job. You'll need a torque wrench and a ring compressor or appropriately sized band clamp.
You'll need to buy at minimum a ring set (obviously), a head gasket, an oil pan gasket, a tube of assembly lube, possibly intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, and you can consider new rod bearings but at 1100hrs that's probably not necessary so long as you are **** about locations and orientations of ALL individual parts.
Suggest you do one piston at a time to keep everything straight

ok I like that encouragement. I’ve got a torque wrench. WHAT SIZE & TYPE RING COMPRESSOR should I buy?? 3” amazon special or ?

Should I be investigating a kit or buy parts needed individually (rings, head and oil pan gaskets, etc etc)

When you say locations and orientations of all individual parts you mean orientation of each piston and cap itself in relation to the block correct? Are there more parts?

Before major work I will compression test again WITH ALL GPS removed and I’ll look into another gauge to re test (3 hour trip to parts store round trip)

After re testing I will soak with some type F ATF fluid for old fords since I have some already on hand.

Battery load tests fine

I bled injectors and lines with fresh fuel after flushing tank a few days ago. Will flip lines around and hook up fuel injectors externally to test as explained if it is necessary.

No bore scope on hand

I’ll read some more responses and post back
THANK YOU FOR THE AMAZING HELP EVERYONE!!!