New to me TC29D cranks & won’t start

[Mud2Money]

Have you checked the valve lash by chance ? Wonder if someone adjusted the valves as maintenance and set them a touch to tight. I know you said smoke from the oil fill but that could be some blow by from sitting/ dry rings. Adding oil to the cylinders could help boost the pressure if they are only a few tenths - thou open. This would make sense why all cylinders are low but about equal pressure. Very easy to check.

 

[MTGreen]

1100 hours, something just isn't adding up (although the hours may not be real).

If you need a ridge reamer and new rings, then you likely will also need new pistons, and honing or boring the cylinders. A big top end job. I'm not saying that isn't the answer, but I wouldn't jump right to that conclusion.

If you go down that path, eventually you'll need to remove the head, and inspect the head, head gasket, valves, and cylinders.

On some vehicles, faults are also noted under the valve cover (tight tappets, bad valves, lifters, etc).

Agreed. Thinking likely ether-blown rings and possibly piston lands
Very low compression that improves with oil in cylinders means rings are bad and the repair involves pulling the head and pistons. Doesn't rule out a valves not closing problem or a head gasket blown out between both set of cylinders problem but does rule in a ring/piston problem -still need to pull the head.

Borescope can determine if cylinder walls are scored or pistons are obviously damaged -still need to pull the head

Leakdown test can determine how bad rings/possibly valves are -still need to pull the head.

Valve lash adjustment is probably worth testing first because if someone incompetent set it grossly off it's possible the valves are never closing during compression stroke. It's also possible but less likely that someone pulled the cam and didn't retime it to the crank correctly or it somehow skipped time causing valves to be open during compression stroke. Valve not closing problem with lash in ballpark -still need to pull the head.

Head gasket blown between all 3 cylinders -still need to pull the head.

So if the compression tests +/- oil are giving valid results and there's not a gross valve adjustment problem or gross crank/cam timing problem, the head needs to come off in my view regardless of the source of the problem.


Some quick and dirty tests here:

Put a socket on the crank bolt and manually turn the engine -do you feel much in the way of compression resistance? Do you feel air blowing out the crankcase breather (valve cover on)? This will help validate your compression tester results.

With the valve cover off, use the socket on the crank to turn the engine until a given valve is pressed down by the rocker arm to it's maximum travel, then make sure you can move/rattle the other rocker arm for that cylinder. Repeat for all 6 valves. This will determine if your valve lash is set in the ballpark or if it's grossly off.

Cam/crank relation timing can be ballpark tested by looking for a crank rotation period where both valves are closed (up and rockers rattle) and seeing if you can feel the top of the piston with a long screwdriver probe through the glow plug hole. This is unlikely though and I wouldn't think necessary unless it's obvious someone has recently taken the front cover off.

As mentioned above did you drain the oil and get metal shavings/chunks out?

 

[CalienteJohn]

Wow I’m having to make hand notes to keep up with everyone’s responses THANK YOU

I will drain the oil and look into screening it to see particles or chinks (recommendations on screen, cheese cloth I imagine fine right)

I will also pressure wash so I can begin doing things like take the valve cover off to inspect valve lash.

Does anyone have any specs on this model of tractor or a service manual or at least the relevant pages as someone mentioned at one point . Anything I should have I’d be grateful for anyone to pm or post etc.

 

[CliffordK]

There are several New Holland TC29D service manuals on E-Bay. It is probably a good thing to have on the shelf.

You'll probably need details like valve clearances, head bolt torque and torque sequence, etc. It might also help with testing and diagnosing glow plugs.

 

[Mud2Money]

For screening oil I use paint filters. They are slow but cheap and easy. You can carefully cut open a oil filter as well and open the element. Any metals will stand out.

Glad to see all the positive help as well from everyone. You really seem invested and interested in learning and figuring this tractor out. How can you not encourage that ! Wish I had more help to offer but I think at this point most everything’s been covered until further investigation.

 

[Mark_Carpenter]

Check that the seat switch works. Also check all the wiring that goes behind the seat for chaffing. I have a TC40 DA and had the same problem.

 

[the old grind]

Anymore recommend digital manuals. They're far cheaper and not as bulky/clumsy as the printed ones. Then I back up to folders or pen drives so they're portable and don't get lost (to me lol) wherever I first downloaded them to.

When I have to follow along on a dirty job I print off relative pages that become expendable.

 

[nyone]

I definitely agree that something isn’t adding up. Three sets of rings failing at the same time, with similar test results? What is the expected number 300ish, probably close enough to get it to puff.

I'm with you here. 3 things don't fail all at the same time like this and re ringing a engine isnt a quick and easy job. I would be checking alot of other things before I just go ripping and tearing at the engine.

Theres plenty of other cheap/free checks and adjustments you can do before you just start throwing parts at something.