New to me Ford 3000

[jchewie]

1973 gas 8 speed with power steering.
Also has a Ford loader and 6.5 foot snowblower.
Good rear rubber.
Has a control valve and one set of rear remotes. Haven't tested this, need a handle for the valve and a cylinder and hoses.

Not sure exactly how easy it is supposed to make steering turn, but it seems like once I strongarm the start of the turn it turns further pretty easily.

Needs steering tie rod ends.
Loader cutting edge is worn to the bucket at the outside edges.
Needs an exhaust manifold.
May need carburetor attention. Starts pretty easily. Occasional backfire when slowing rpms.
Tach needle is broken but center portion moves. No idea if it is accurate or not. Rest of the gauges don't work
3 point droops very slowly after shut off. The snowblower falls maybe 8 inches in 15 minutes.

$2700 delivered. How'd I do?

 

[jchewie]

 

[NC419N]

Would have been a great deal if it was a Diesel but for 2700. you still probably got your money's worth. Those are tough old tractors and there are plenty of parts out there for them.

 

[jchewie]

Good. Winter is insanely cold and this machine's primary duty is snowblowing.
I only have ten acres and don't have any other diesel equipment.

I should be giving the loader a good workout over the next couple years filling in some low spots in the yard.

 

[Soundguy]

Change the fluid and filter in the Ps resv.

More revs help, especially on heavy front loads and worn pumps

 

[Soundguy]

Change the fluid and filter in the Ps resv.

More revs help, especially on heavy front loads and worn pumps

 

[jchewie]

Thanks!




Looks like the starter bendix is going.
Starter did not engage at all this afternoon.
Spun nice and loud maybe a dozen times.
Battery is new, 12.6 volts static.
When starting there is 0.1 volt drop across solenoid and 11.5 volts across starter.
Flywheel is not worn or missing teeth.
Good contact pattern visible on the starter teeth.
Starter bench tested fine.
Spinning the starter gear by hand I can occasionally turn it freely in the start direction.

Worn or dirty sprag assembly? There was a little crud in there that I hosed out with brake cleaner, but it didn't seem to make much difference. I'm not familiar with Ford starters, and unless there is a quick, easy, and cheap bendix replacement I'm just going to get a lifetime warranty one from Napa for $100 tomorrow.

Unfortunately this didn't show up during the half dozen times I started it when looking.

 

[seaneastok]

Not sure what prices are up there in Euper land..But down here you could sell the front loader and tires and probably come out ahead..Good ,stout old tractors..As long as nothing major rear's it's ugly head you'll be alright..
Regard's
Sean

 

[jchewie]

The market here is probably both significantly lower priced and smaller than OK.
If it blows up I could probably sell components in the Lower Peninsula and recoup most of my cost.

Not too worried about it though. The starter I pulled off is a nine year old reman. I figured I would have a few hundred into the other repairs needed, and should have a reliable machine capable of clearing snow and some of the landscaping projects I want to tackle.

 

[Soundguy]

100$? I'd go for that...

 

[jchewie]

My replacement exhaust manifold and gasket came today. I took the top sheet metal off, scraped half a gallon of oil sands off the valve cover, and unbolted the old manifold. The bolt I thought I was going to have trouble with (half rusted head) came right out, but another was rusted oblong and rounded with the first try. I pounded the next smaller socket on and it came out fine.

No wonder it was loud.



Manifold removed but before scraping another quart of oil sands off the side of the engine. It's good and cleaned up, and I will be able to easily see a valve cover or head gasket oil leak now.

I hung the new manifold in place with two old bolts before running out of daylight. The new manifold came with very rough paint, full of crud, over the machined manifold ports. I wirebrushed the paint and crud off before putting it in place.

I need to get an air filter, last changed in 1981.
Also a service manual.
Also new exhaust extension and muffler.

What's the consensus on mufflers? I'm willing to spend a little more to make it noticeably quieter. Just go with an oval one from TSC or NAPA or the internet? Go to the local auto exhaust place and see what they recommend?



Also picked up the new starter but ran out of daylight. Tomorrow. Then I am moving it into the garage.

 

[jchewie]

New starter has been on a while. Works perfect.

Today I replaced the filter in the power steering reservoir. Drained out strawberry milkshake. Replaced with power steering fluid. No leaks present before, but the fluid sat about mid level. Hopefully no leaks next time I start it.

I was working the tractor last weekend, digging up some brush, and after it warmed up I could hear a knock. I think this is timing related, as it was only present at mid rpms, and only after it was warm.

I should have just tried adjusting the distributor timing, but tore into it instead. Waiting on a dust cover, as the old one had cracked, and finally fell apart when I took it off to look at the points. Points were well worn, and the gap was about .040.

Also tinkering with the generator.



Question:
What is the best place to unbolt in order to replace the belt?

 

[jchewie]

Another question:

Full charged battery at 12.6 v
Negative to generator frame, positive to both terminals.
I get a small spark when jumpered to small terminal.
Generator does not spin even if spun by hand.

Brushes, wiring, testing wrong?

ETA, Lucas generator, 5-72 date code?
Internal wiring is just old. Haven't done any continuity testing across poles. Not sure if I will/should, or just go get a junkyard alternator. Tach needle is already broken off, the stub spins, but there is no accuracy beyond guessing as to RPM.

 

[NC419N]

A-EHPN10849A Cluster Assembly, Gauge
This is a A & P part number
On the generator maybe check with a local shop to see if they can rebuild yours. I our area there are some shops here that will trade out for one they have rebuilt.

 

[jchewie]

Closest local shop for a generator rebuild is about 3 hours drive. But I'll be going that way in a few weeks.
Are those gauge assemblies decent quality?
A tach would be real nice to have and the amount of fooling around with retrofitting an alternator, tach, oil and temp gauges and indicator lights makes the price a wash.

 

[NC419N]

That cluster assembly is like the original just a new reproduction

 

[jchewie]

Ordered a generator and the gauge assembly.
Air filters showed up today.


Can anyone tell me if the vacuum advance should have a small hole in it? If I blow or suck on the tube without the spring, shims, and spacer in place the distributor assembly moves freely, but there is a very small hole in the diaphragm. Seems like a small pinhole, but I figured it might be there to help attenuate very minor pressure fluctuations.

 

[jchewie]

[Johnny Cash] One piece at a time [/Johnny Cash]
Things keep showing up in the mail. All that goop on the side and top of the engine was there because of a couple of cracks in the valve cover gasket that allowed a slow oil weep. The new one arrived today and is now in place

 

[Soundguy]

PS.. you tested your gen correctly.

belt off, ground generator frame, and then bat hot to both the armature and field. if she don't spin, gen needs serviced.

 

[jchewie]

New generator is on.
Have the new gauge cluster but haven't installed it yet.

Working on timing. I haven't ever worked on anything with vacuum advance. Talking to the guys at work mine is toast with the hole in it. I plugged the ports.

Got it running, halfway decent timing. My timing light is toast, need to borrow one.
Was running decent. Now lots of sputters and backfiring. There is a hole in the carburetor to intake manifold gasket.


ETA, definitely runs better cold.