New to me 240D

[Menagerie-Manor]

Thanks! Just replaced the air filter, but will check the intake tube, etc. Exhaust is clean, no problem there and starts with no issues.

I did put 15W40 in it when I changed the oil. Man.. Hate to think that could cause the engine to bog when using the FEL. Sadly it's even just under it's own weight, it's not like I'm lifting anything or doing any work.

Appreciate the suggestion, I'll check the intake, etc. maybe it's clogged and just didn't realize it.

What RPM would you expect I could life the FEL without the engine bogging down?

My 2310 w/3 cy will lift the bucket without a struggle at around 1100/1200 rpm so I would not expect a struggle around 2K rpm on the 240D.

Did the hydraulics operate smoothly.

 

[supermansv]

My 2310 w/3 cy will lift the bucket without a struggle at around 1100/1200 rpm so I would not expect a struggle around 2K rpm on the 240D.

Did the hydraulics operate smoothly.

Thanks for confirming, I wouldn't have thought the RPMs needed to be that high.

The 3 point is really smooth (nothing on it though), the FEL is fairly smooth, but have to have the RPMs above 2k for it to not bog down. Another thing I noticed is if I curl the bucket and once it hits the stops if I keep trying, that also bogs the engine.

 

[Menagerie-Manor]

Thanks for confirming, I wouldn't have thought the RPMs needed to be that high.

The 3 point is really smooth (nothing on it though), the FEL is fairly smooth, but have to have the RPMs above 2k for it to not bog down. Another thing I noticed is if I curl the bucket and once it hits the stops if I keep trying, that also bogs the engine.

Mine will bog a bit on the stops too. Have you tried running any pto attachments to see how she handles the power output that way.

 

[supermansv]

Mine will bog a bit on the stops too. Have you tried running any pto attachments to see how she handles the power output that way.

Ah, good to know.

I haven't run anything on the PTO, yet to aquire a PTO implement.

 

[California]

My YM240 won't bog lifting the loader (with nothing in it), clear down to ~800 rpm. That sounds like the hydraulic system is working harder than it should.

 

[supermansv]

My YM240 won't bog lifting the loader, clear down to ~800 rpm. That sounds like the hydraulic system is working harder than it should.

That was my suspicion. Need to research more on how to narrow down/troubleshoot the issue though.

 

[supermansv]

Just checked again. Mine doesn't even idle at 800 RPMs if the gauge is correct, it will start cutting off at around 1k RPMs if I try to get it that low.

Also, noticed that when I do run it at 2kish RPMs and use the FEL, it drops about 300-500 RPMs. Is that normal? In general, the engine seems to surge quite a bit when using the FEL. @California, does yours do that as well?

I checked the air filter and pre-cleaner filter, both are clean.

 

[bmaverick]

Just checked again. Mine doesn't even idle at 800 RPMs if the gauge is correct, it will start cutting off at around 1k RPMs if I try to get it that low.

Also, noticed that when I do run it at 2kish RPMs and use the FEL, it drops about 300-500 RPMs. Is that normal? In general, the engine seems to surge quite a bit when using the FEL. @California, does yours do that as well?

I checked the air filter and pre-cleaner filter, both are clean.

Yeah, the 15W40 in the engine is too thick and will allow heat to build up.

Any of these should work or a brand that is like these.

The Shell Rotella T5 10W30 for diesel

Shell Rotella T5 10W-30 Diesel Engine Motor Oil, 1 Gallon - Walmart.com

or

Robot or human?

or

Mobil Delvac Extreme HD Full Syn Diesel Engine Oil 10W-30, 1 Gal

Mobil Delvac Extreme 10W-30 is a high-performance synthetic diesel engine oil that helps to deliver extended performance for up to two times beyond OEM recommended oil drain intervals* for modern diesel engines operating in extreme conditions. Mobil Delvac Extreme 10W-30 has the potential to...

www.speedwaymotors.com

 

[dirttoys]

Ok, phew... The multi-week saga has (atleast for this part) finally come to an end. This morning I was able to break out the rest of the bolt from it's resting place . Re-tapped the threads and now will start the process of cleaning the rest of the bolt holes and putting things back together. My partner is going to be happy to get this thing out of the garage lol. As you will see from the pics, I essentially had the FEL removed, just didn't separate at the hydraulic line. For anyone else, the key for me was getting the cold steel 1/4 chisel. With that, I was able to slowly break out the bolt.

Thank you again to everyone for the help/guidance/support!

Thank you for the update, glad you got it!

 

[California]

Just checked again. Mine doesn't even idle at 800 RPMs if the gauge is correct, it will start cutting off at around 1k RPMs if I try to get it that low.

Also, noticed that when I do run it at 2kish RPMs and use the FEL, it drops about 300-500 RPMs. Is that normal? In general, the engine seems to surge quite a bit when using the FEL. @California, does yours do that as well?

I checked the air filter and pre-cleaner filter, both are clean

suparmansf I sent you a pm describing how my YM240 idles.

bmaverick - I've run Tractor Supply's "Traveller Premium" 15W40 oil (or any name brand at similar price) for near two decades and don't see anything wrong with it. 15W40 was recommended by the Yanmar Authorized Dealers (and gray importers) who posted here in the early days of this forum.

In the modern automotive world, and maybe with modern John Deeres, thinner oil is recommended for fuel economy and perhaps cleaner air, but I'm not convinced that relates to our 40 year old rigs. Straight 30 weight and a 5 minute warmup to get it circulating is what's in the owner's manual. I think 15W40 is a sufficient modern replacement. 10W-30 and Full Synthetic are likely also suitable but I'm not convinced they are essential.

 

[dirttoys]

On a separate note - When I'm at 2k RPM's (which sounds fairly high rev'd to me) and use the front bucket, the engine seems to struggle. Am I just at too low of an RPM? It just seems like I'm constantly having to adjust the throttle in order to keep the engine happy. I've changed the fuel filter and bled the air out. Not sure what else to check except for the hydraulic pump itself?

Seem to see these weak on power threads quite a bit.

Most of the time folks point to air or fuel, which makes sense. New stuff seems to be 'revier' than old stuff, it is always a bugger to know if you have problem if you don't know how it should work

If you know of one like it handy, compare them, if you have someone handy that knows how they run, have him/her test it.

New filters never hurt. If you ask my wife she has some alleged evidence I was wrong once, but, if you put it on a dyno, then change the oil and get a 5% difference, I will send you a crisp new hondo.

Does it bog when going uphill in a high gear? Does adding weight to the loader change/make it worse? Any pivot points binding (you just pulled it partway off right?). With your luck with bolts, don't tare into the pump just yet

All kidding aside, let us know what/if you find anything, and thanks for passing back your solution on the bolt, you would be amazed how many times that doesn't happen.

Best,

ed

 

[CoyPatton]

As this is a new to you tractor, and shows signs of poor maintenance — broken bolt un-repaired, I would drain hydraulic fluid and clean internal screen/filter and replace the screw on filter—if equipped.
It is normal to get a bit of bog as you force hydraulics to work against the stops as the relief valve has to activate at that point. This puts a pressure back up on the pump forcing the motor to work harder.

 

[bmaverick]

suparmansf I sent you a pm describing how my YM240 idles.

bmaverick - I've run Tractor Supply's "Traveller Premium" 15W40 oil (or any name brand at similar price) for near two decades and don't see anything wrong with it. 15W40 was recommended by the Yanmar Authorized Dealers (and gray importers) who posted here in the early days of this forum.

In the modern automotive world, and maybe with modern John Deeres, thinner oil is recommended for fuel economy and perhaps cleaner air, but I'm not convinced that relates to our 40 year old rigs. Straight 30 weight and a 5 minute warmup to get it circulating is what's in the owner's manual. I think 15W40 is a sufficient modern replacement. 10W-30 and Full Synthetic are likely also suitable but I'm not convinced they are essential.

@California We had been on this 10W30 vs. 15W40 prior and you had agreed that you should switch over to the Yanmar recommended oil vs. what a dealer tells you. I had posted those charts for both Yanmar and John Deere showing the same.

Do recall, I did share how Japan Industry Standards (JIS) have different engineering requirements to engine fabrication and crank case oil passages.
Yes, Yanmar, Satoh and Mitsubishi are were ahead of their time with the 10W30 usage beginning in the early 70s.

Yes, the manual is correct for straight 30 to be used as well, however, not at low temps before freezing.

Likewise, the hydraulic fluid should be Yanmar TF500A or John Deere J20C.

 

[ponytug]

Like @CoyPatton, I have seen a number of older tractors with questionable, or unknown, service histories have unbelievably clogged and gunked up intake screens. With a tractor of unknown or unreliable service history, I would start with draining the hydraulic fluid, cleaning the screen, changing the filter if it exists, and then refilling with the correct oil. (As @bmaverick points out above.)

You never want gunk circulating in a hydraulic system.

Once that is done, you have given the hydraulic pump a chance to function properly, and can go from there.

I would not underestimate the impact of oils that are the wrong viscosity, especially in a well engineered engine. Not only does it generate more work (if too thick), but it probably isn't lubricating as well as designed. 30W oil is quite a bit thinner than 40W oil, as in nearly half. (NB: The vertical scales below are not linear.)

Comparative oil viscosities

All the best,

Peter

 

[bmaverick]

From the John Deere info on the 50 Series (aka Yanmar YM Series)

From the Yanmar site

Yanmar RS - AF Series oil info. Using engines like the F & FX Series based on the YM Series.

Hydraulic fluids

John Deere 50 Series manuals (aka Yanmar YM Series)

 

[California]

Ok, I'm convinced.

But before converting I need to use up the NAPA diesel oil I bought, when they closed out their traditional product that wasn't suitable for the smog gear on the latest diesel pickups.

At least I'm using J20C spec oil for UTF, and for the backhoe hydraulics (where 303 was in the first edition of its operator manual).

Thanks for providing those details.

Next question - is there a good quality 10W30 oil as inexpensive as Tractor Supply's Traveler Premium?

 

[supermansv]

This group is awesome, really appreciate all the responses/suggestions.

I did change the hydraulic fluid and washed out the screen while I was addressing the bolt issue. It was fairly clean, much to my surprise. That said, I haven't run it much since I got the bolt fixed, maybe I'll put a little bit of time on it and see if my results change.

Also, there are a few other Yanmar's for sale around me. Maybe I'll check out one of their tractors and compare .

 

[runningbird]

maybe I missed it if already noted. But you really won't know about your 3pt until you put a load on it. At least stand on the arms while you lift and see if it is truly smooth.
also if you have quick connects on your loader, take them off and clean them. Or at least disconnect and reconnect.

 

[bmaverick]

Ok, I'm convinced.

But before converting I need to use up the NAPA diesel oil I bought, when they closed out their traditional product that wasn't suitable for the smog gear on the latest diesel pickups.

At least I'm using J20C spec oil for UTF, and for the backhoe hydraulics (where 303 was in the first edition of its operator manual).

Thanks for providing those details.

Next question - is there a good quality 10W30 oil as inexpensive as Tractor Supply's Traveler Premium?

TSC 10W30 diesel is good. I have Blains Farm and Fleet out here with basically the same stuff, just their label. Likewise Rural King too.

The Shell Rotella T5 would work. Yes, finding good deals is always a plus.

@California Possibly blend the 15W40 with the 10W30 at the next oil change till you use it all up. Your location typically doesn't see fridge cold temps in CA, thus the 15W40 blending would be just fine for all year use.

We all tend to us the J20C because it's so easy to find, where as the Yanmar TF500A is special order or not available in your area. If the winters get worse in my region due to this Grand Solar Minimum, I may have to use J20D for winter snow plowing in the machine. In winter high altitude, J20D is the way to go. BUT, it's best to have a machine that's 30Hp or better at those elevations because of the Hp drop.