grsthegreat
Super Star Member
Ok, thanks.
New shop build, beginning stages with questions
- Thread starter rangerfredbob
- Start date
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rangerfredbob
Veteran Member
I got the idea from a friend that did his, I've seen a few references online too. I have no idea of any requirements or recommendations... I think my friend just put the tubing in the concrete with a piece of rebar pinning it to the ground underneath, he has one or two that came loose so I figured the plate on top and bottom as well as a couple pieces of rebar on the sides should help
I've never had anything so everything is going to be a learning experience... I'm hoping to put a vise on one and a grinder on one as well as a sawhorse or two... maybe my HFT tire changer, possibly a metal bender... that's why I put in 6
I have two vehicles with bent frames, and I always seem to end up with warped up stuff so this seemed like a good idea, and the floor anchors on Amazon are only around $30...
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rangerfredbob
Veteran Member
The above picture does look bad, holy cow... I need to stop using the stupid phone... I tried a couple tonight but they didn't work great either...
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rangerfredbob
Veteran Member
Ok, I think these are better...
It looks much better after I mopped up on Thursday night...
Have the door hardware unpacked, now to get on installing here in a few...
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rangerfredbob
Veteran Member
I don't think I did, but they're all close to 12' apart which is on the edge of recommendations I think... For the most part I just went post to post, around the lift area I skewed that a bit further out...
I got the doors up, but I think I might have put the 12' springs on the 10' door and the 10' springs on the 12' door or something... they were sorta labeled with a tag but made an assumption that the longer spring went on the taller door... but the dynamics might be strange with the 4" pulley on the 10' door and 5" pulley on 12' door, the shorter spring should be stiffer... That and most of the bolts are still somewhat loose for tweaking so they need work still but they're there and it's closed up for the first time!
I got the doors up, but I think I might have put the 12' springs on the 10' door and the 10' springs on the 12' door or something... they were sorta labeled with a tag but made an assumption that the longer spring went on the taller door... but the dynamics might be strange with the 4" pulley on the 10' door and 5" pulley on 12' door, the shorter spring should be stiffer... That and most of the bolts are still somewhat loose for tweaking so they need work still but they're there and it's closed up for the first time!
two_bit_score
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Dec 22, 2008
- Messages
- 11,748
- Tractor
- John Deere 110 TLB, Diamond C 19LPX GN trailer
Its all turning out really well! I like those chain pots in the floor.
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rangerfredbob
Veteran Member
I'm not worried about it or I wouldn't have done it . That is good to hear though. I'm pretty sure I won't have too bad of a cracking problem with a ~5.5" slab with rebar and cut on top of a native soil base and the gravel had the jumping jack ran over it 3 times...
On the plus side, my brother offered to come over again and help me swap the springs over between the doors, that was the problem... they both open easier now and just need some fine tuning as in maybe 1/2 turn more on one door and getting the tracks set right distance wise.
One more step down! Or close enough to feel better... The kit pieces left to install are few anymore, the two door latches and one piece of trim I can't put on until I get power (I'm running an extension cord through one of the clear panels at the top). I'm going to try to call in for the final inspection tomorrow!
. That is good to hear though. I'm pretty sure I won't have too bad of a cracking problem with a ~5.5" slab with rebar and cut on top of a native soil base and the gravel had the jumping jack ran over it 3 times...On the plus side, my brother offered to come over again and help me swap the springs over between the doors, that was the problem... they both open easier now and just need some fine tuning as in maybe 1/2 turn more on one door and getting the tracks set right distance wise.
One more step down! Or close enough to feel better... The kit pieces left to install are few anymore, the two door latches and one piece of trim I can't put on until I get power (I'm running an extension cord through one of the clear panels at the top). I'm going to try to call in for the final inspection tomorrow!
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rangerfredbob
Veteran Member
"Final" inspection was a flop, they want more money... apparently there's no "for future use" in the plumbing world and apparently I need a permit for the radiant heating... Apparently the plumbing permit is $250ish and the heating permit is $54ish... so I have that to deal with, and I didn't realize the electrical permit stuff has to be done first... apparently this county is more stringent than some... Whatever, that's not too bad
Anywho, that said it's now been 4 weeks since the slab was poured, I put backer rod down into the saw cuts then put in 10 tubes of Siki Flex self leveling goo then put a coat of "25% Cure and seal" over the whole thing today. Now that it's dried I plan to start moving some stuff in to it tomorrow assuming it doesn't rain too bad... I have the forklift deal on the tractor so I can move the tool box over...
Anywho, that said it's now been 4 weeks since the slab was poured, I put backer rod down into the saw cuts then put in 10 tubes of Siki Flex self leveling goo then put a coat of "25% Cure and seal" over the whole thing today. Now that it's dried I plan to start moving some stuff in to it tomorrow assuming it doesn't rain too bad... I have the forklift deal on the tractor so I can move the tool box over...