New owner questions

SailorBob · May 30, 2006

I had that problem with my 1700 it turned out that the sensor was bad. I replaced the light with a temp gauge. When the outside temp is 85+ the tractor runs about 190 degress while brush hogging (cooler doing other things). When mowing the radiator screen really picks up a lot of clippings and has to be cleaned about every hour. The temp will start to slowly rise about 190 when the screen gets clogged. I believe the the temp light is supposed to come on at about 238 degrees. I will stop and clean the screen at about 200 and the temp will drop back down.

SailorBob · May 30, 2006

I had that problem with my 1700 it turned out that the sensor was bad. I replaced the light with a temp gauge. When the outside temp is 85+ the tractor runs about 190 degress while brush hogging (cooler doing other things). When mowing the radiator screen really picks up a lot of clippings and has to be cleaned about every hour. The temp will start to slowly rise about 190 when the screen gets clogged. I believe the the temp light is supposed to come on at about 238 degrees. I will stop and clean the screen at about 200 and the temp will drop back down.

greatrandini · May 30, 2006

The best thing to do would be to install a water pump and replace the sending unit.

greatrandini · May 30, 2006

The best thing to do would be to install a water pump and replace the sending unit.

Gizmo36 · May 30, 2006

My light was coming on with the FINISHING MOWER . Put a new sending unit in and that fix it.

Gizmo36 · May 30, 2006

My light was coming on with the FINISHING MOWER . Put a new sending unit in and that fix it.

normde2001 · May 30, 2006

"Did you mean to say put the garden hose in the lower radiator hose connector, then watch the water come out the top till it's clean, or the other way round?'

No, I meant to say, "Disconnect the upper hose at the radiator, shove a garden hose into the upper hose, seal around it with rags, flush until clean water pours out the upper connector." Water goes through the upper hose, into the block, out of the block through the lower hose, up through the radiator and out the upper connector, opposite normal water flow. If there were a thermostat, it would have to be removed.

normde2001 · May 30, 2006

"Did you mean to say put the garden hose in the lower radiator hose connector, then watch the water come out the top till it's clean, or the other way round?'

No, I meant to say, "Disconnect the upper hose at the radiator, shove a garden hose into the upper hose, seal around it with rags, flush until clean water pours out the upper connector." Water goes through the upper hose, into the block, out of the block through the lower hose, up through the radiator and out the upper connector, opposite normal water flow. If there were a thermostat, it would have to be removed.

Jagmandave · May 30, 2006

Ok, see that's where I have a problem, you don't want to flush all the crap in the block into the radiator.........that's why I suggested diconnecting the hoses and running it either or both directions till it comes out clean.

Unless I'm missing something again...........

Jagmandave · May 30, 2006

Ok, see that's where I have a problem, you don't want to flush all the crap in the block into the radiator.........that's why I suggested diconnecting the hoses and running it either or both directions till it comes out clean.

Unless I'm missing something again...........

mah · May 30, 2006

I have had several Yanmars with cooling problems. The first thing I would do is replace the sending unit. DON'T buy the after market sender for a YM1700. Get the proper Yanmar brand part #124450-44902. The after market unit has a lower temp setting. If that doesn't fix it, have the radiator rodded out at a radiator shop. 50-$70. Make sure it has the shroud on the radiator and the fan and belt are in good condition. If everything is right you should not need a water pump. The water hose flush and flow test usually does not work.

mah · May 30, 2006

I have had several Yanmars with cooling problems. The first thing I would do is replace the sending unit. DON'T buy the after market sender for a YM1700. Get the proper Yanmar brand part #124450-44902. The after market unit has a lower temp setting. If that doesn't fix it, have the radiator rodded out at a radiator shop. 50-$70. Make sure it has the shroud on the radiator and the fan and belt are in good condition. If everything is right you should not need a water pump. The water hose flush and flow test usually does not work.

BruceR · May 31, 2006

While you're at it, don't forget to check the clutch adjustment. That can have a bearing on your running temp. as well.

Bruce

BruceR · May 31, 2006

While you're at it, don't forget to check the clutch adjustment. That can have a bearing on your running temp. as well.

Bruce

ghmerrill · May 31, 2006

Thanks for the various suggestions. My wife is arguing that what's responsible for the overheating is that both rear tires are rather continually rubbing on the hitch arms and that this must be putting substantial load on the motor. I can see that in fact this is true (i.e., that they are really rubbing).

So the first thing I'm going to do is to swap/reverse the rear wheels -- which I want to do anyway to increase stability. Then I'll reassess the situation. If I'm still having problems, I'll probably pull the radiator again (what a pain), take it to a shop just to be sure it's good and clear, and also install a water pump. If I take that @!?$%#!!! thing apart again, I want it to be for the last time in a long while!

I'm kind of puzzled by the tires rubbing so badly on the lift arms and was thinking of adding some "keeper" chains to hold them in. But even so, they're terribly close to the tires. I don't see how the tractor can be used with the hitch down and the rear wheels in the narrow configuration.

ghmerrill · May 31, 2006

Thanks for the various suggestions. My wife is arguing that what's responsible for the overheating is that both rear tires are rather continually rubbing on the hitch arms and that this must be putting substantial load on the motor. I can see that in fact this is true (i.e., that they are really rubbing).

So the first thing I'm going to do is to swap/reverse the rear wheels -- which I want to do anyway to increase stability. Then I'll reassess the situation. If I'm still having problems, I'll probably pull the radiator again (what a pain), take it to a shop just to be sure it's good and clear, and also install a water pump. If I take that @!?$%#!!! thing apart again, I want it to be for the last time in a long while!

I'm kind of puzzled by the tires rubbing so badly on the lift arms and was thinking of adding some "keeper" chains to hold them in. But even so, they're terribly close to the tires. I don't see how the tractor can be used with the hitch down and the rear wheels in the narrow configuration.

SailorBob · May 31, 2006

Does the tractor not have any sway chains installed? Mine does. Also, on my 1700 I have the tires turned out and I reversed the lower attachment pins to face inward on all of my implements. You are right there is not much clearance with the wheels.

SailorBob · May 31, 2006

Does the tractor not have any sway chains installed? Mine does. Also, on my 1700 I have the tires turned out and I reversed the lower attachment pins to face inward on all of my implements. You are right there is not much clearance with the wheels.

ghmerrill · May 31, 2006

Yeah, it's got sway chains with turnbuckles. But (unlike my Massey) these anchor the arms to the *outside* rather than to the *inside*. I guess the idea is that if you get them adjusted just right then the opposite chain prevents the hitch from swinging too far. But as a matter of physics and geometry, this seems a bit goofy. On the Massey, each sway chain anchors its arm to the *inside*, preventing it from swining out.

I looked for inside anchor points to attach chains to, but didn't see any. On another list I've seen a reference to D-rings under the axle for this purpose. I'll look more closely and see if I missed these. Otherwise, I suppose I can anchor inside chains to the drawbar.

ghmerrill · May 31, 2006

Yeah, it's got sway chains with turnbuckles. But (unlike my Massey) these anchor the arms to the *outside* rather than to the *inside*. I guess the idea is that if you get them adjusted just right then the opposite chain prevents the hitch from swinging too far. But as a matter of physics and geometry, this seems a bit goofy. On the Massey, each sway chain anchors its arm to the *inside*, preventing it from swining out.

I looked for inside anchor points to attach chains to, but didn't see any. On another list I've seen a reference to D-rings under the axle for this purpose. I'll look more closely and see if I missed these. Otherwise, I suppose I can anchor inside chains to the drawbar.