New New Holland

   / New New Holland
  • Thread Starter
#21  
Actually after I first got it They came out to do a couple things. Havnt really needed anything I couldnt handle myself

Recently (3 years later) I had a couple issues and needed a couple parts installed. I called and had them order parts. When the parts came in they called. If they were to come out I would have to set a date. My option would be if I would bring it in to them they would fix it right away while I was waiting.
Since we go to "town" about once a month I put it on the trailer and dropped it off while we were getting supplies. They called a couple hours later and it was done. Very nice people to work with.
The X has been pretty much flawless. Made in Italy

so... If I was stranded and they had to come right out....maybe I would have to pay travel time (2hrs) If it were at their convenience ...I dont know.
Sounds like a great outfit. My dealer Ocala Tractor won't lift a finger for less than $400.
 
   / New New Holland #22  
ferling - the link you provided had a great explanation of where all New Holland is made- ag equipment, tractors, etc. If you'll read about 1/3 of the way down the page, you'll see Turkey is headquarters for Light Series Tractors (whatever that means, but I suppose 60 hp tractors)
 
   / New New Holland
  • Thread Starter
#23  
so, I finally got a chance to spend some time looking at wiring under the seat and around the axle. there are a bunch of fairly loose wires with connections. they get pretty beat up and dirty when pulling a mower. I pulled and prodded all that I could see including the one that leads up under the seat. Then I tried it and it started up as normal. so, I guess it comes down to a loose connection. I'll clean and secure better than the factory did and hopefully solve the problem.

A very odd thing happened today. I noticed I had received a call from the dealer on my cell phone. No message was left. However, I had not yet called them. I wonder if some New Holland person monitors these conversations?
 
   / New New Holland
  • Thread Starter
#24  
You have to adjust the seat tension or put some lead in your ass. Or the best solution is to find someone that knows how to “bypass” that problem. When your warranty no longer exist you can fine tune that tractor to act like you want it to act. Wear your seat belt if you have a problem with staying in seat. Also under the clutch pedal (left foot floor rest is a bunch of wires / connections. Make sure they are not covered with dirt / mud or any connections being loose. New tractors have a lot of electronics. Greatest thing since brown sugar but when it quits working it is one more pain in the arse.
Thanks - See my fix in another post. Exactly-loose wiring. P.S. I used to live on the old Firestone Farm.
 
   / New New Holland #25  
I wonder if some New Holland person monitors these conversations?
If they don't, I would be more surprised.... I doubt it would have lead to a call, but most major companies have departments tasked with monitoring social media...or they contract it out.

I hope it all work out for you.
 
   / New New Holland #26  
so, I finally got a chance to spend some time looking at wiring under the seat and around the axle. there are a bunch of fairly loose wires with connections. they get pretty beat up and dirty when pulling a mower. I pulled and prodded all that I could see including the one that leads up under the seat. Then I tried it and it started up as normal. so, I guess it comes down to a loose connection. I'll clean and secure better than the factory did and hopefully solve the problem.

A very odd thing happened today. I noticed I had received a call from the dealer on my cell phone. No message was left. However, I had not yet called them. I wonder if some New Holland person monitors these conversations?
Get some silicone spray made for electrical connections that helps waterproof connections. CRC 1003200 | Crescent Electric Supply Company
 
   / New New Holland #28  
Thanks - See my fix in another post. Exactly-loose wiring. P.S. I used to live on the old Firestone Farm.
You have just learned a valuable lesson in modern technology. Don’t be afraid to ask and pray you’re not the first one to have this problem. Hope someone else has corrected it in their past and is willing to past the solution on.
Remember if someone is monitoring these sites it’s for picking knowledge from those that corrected problems. That dealer may sell a couple cans of silicone electrical waterproofing (at an unreal marked up price) just because of your comments.
 
   / New New Holland #29  
Remember first 50 hour service on New Holland (Workmaster 50/60/70) only requires oil change / filter and fuel filter change.

Really? My Workmaster 25 service at 50 hours also requires hydraulic filter change. Per an earlier thread here, my inexperience with changing the filter meant the service also wound up requiring hydraulic fluid change, which was by far more expensive than the rest of the service. The dealer was kind enough not to laugh at me when I came back for the fluid. Or at least wait until I had left.

About the seat safety switch -- I had a lot of trouble with mine. It would keep killing the engine when I would change my posture in the seat. Craning my neck to see the bucket edges, leaning to check rear clearance, reaching forward to set the parking brake, whatever. I finally gave up and plugged in a jumper instead. Note, I will only start or move the tractor if I have the seat belt fastened, so I'm not doing anything dangerous here. It's just a much-too-touchy switch.

And I really mean that! I read a story somewhere, maybe here, in which somebody started their tractor in the barn or garage and it started moving forward when they didn't expect it to. And the folding ROPS, which wouldn't fit under the beams, had been put back up after parking it for some reason, so the ROPS contacted the beam. The tractor flipped itself in the barn. All it was supposed to do was start warming up. Well, I can't promise I won't do that, but I can promise I'll stay in the seat if I do.
 
   / New New Holland #30  
Really? My Workmaster 25 service at 50 hours also requires hydraulic filter change. Per an earlier thread here, my inexperience with changing the filter meant the service also wound up requiring hydraulic fluid change, which was by far more expensive than the rest of the service. The dealer was kind enough not to laugh at me when I came back for the fluid. Or at least wait until I had left.

About the seat safety switch -- I had a lot of trouble with mine. It would keep killing the engine when I would change my posture in the seat. Craning my neck to see the bucket edges, leaning to check rear clearance, reaching forward to set the parking brake, whatever. I finally gave up and plugged in a jumper instead. Note, I will only start or move the tractor if I have the seat belt fastened, so I'm not doing anything dangerous here. It's just a much-too-touchy switch.
The seat sensor is actually just to stop kids from operating the tractor.

Either they are not heavy enough to trigger it or they have to get off the seat to reach the peddles.

Long before keys were required, seat switches existed. Even now there is pretty much only one key pattern for each manufacturer.
 
   / New New Holland
  • Thread Starter
#31  
Looking at the operators manual for Workmaster 50-60-70, the 50 hr. service only includes free play check for clutch and brake, check wheels and tires, and a hydraulic filter replacement. The engine oil and filter are at 300 hrs. The hydraulic fluid change is at 1200 hrs.
I'm going to haul it in anyway to have them look at the wiring under the seat.
 
   / New New Holland #32  
I feel your pain. Check Battery Ground, both ends of cable.
 
   / New New Holland
  • Thread Starter
#33  
I feel your pain. Check Battery Ground, both ends of cable.
Thanks Gord. It was the seat switch or/and related wiring. I got it to start and it is now at the dealer for a replacement.
 
   / New New Holland #34  
I've had a NH TC35D for 21 yrs and experienced every conceivable no start scenario. About 5 yrs ago I bypassed all safety switches except the PTO safety switch. Even this can be finicky as there is a bolt adjustment underneath the left wheel fender (when sitting in seat). The bolt if not finely adjusted will not fully engage the PTO safety switch. I've found too long over-travels the plunger switch or too short does not engage plunger enough. This was my first thought for your issue.
Possibility#2 unscrew the starter solenoid to see if the plunger is slightly bent. You can also remove or add washers to see if that helps the plunger engages properly. If you have to buy another solenoid you can find on Amazon for third of the cost from NH dealer.
 
   / New New Holland #35  
Really? My Workmaster 25 service at 50 hours also requires hydraulic filter change. Per an earlier thread here, my inexperience with changing the filter meant the service also wound up requiring hydraulic fluid change, which was by far more expensive than the rest of the service. The dealer was kind enough not to laugh at me when I came back for the fluid. Or at least wait until I had left.

About the seat safety switch -- I had a lot of trouble with mine. It would keep killing the engine when I would change my posture in the seat. Craning my neck to see the bucket edges, leaning to check rear clearance, reaching forward to set the parking brake, whatever. I finally gave up and plugged in a jumper instead. Note, I will only start or move the tractor if I have the seat belt fastened, so I'm not doing anything dangerous here. It's just a much-too-touchy switch.

And I really mean that! I read a story somewhere, maybe here, in which somebody started their tractor in the barn or garage and it started moving forward when they didn't expect it to. And the folding ROPS, which wouldn't fit under the beams, had been put back up after parking it for some reason, so the ROPS contacted the beam. The tractor flipped itself in the barn. All it was supposed to do was start warming up. Well, I can't promise I won't do that, but I can promise I'll stay in the seat if I do.
They don’t make enough safety features to cover stupidity ( Example you lower a folding ROPS because its too high for entrance, then once inside you extend it back up). A little education goes a long ways and a lot of education about a piece of equipment may save your life.
 
   / New New Holland
  • Thread Starter
#36  
I've had a NH TC35D for 21 yrs and experienced every conceivable no start scenario. About 5 yrs ago I bypassed all safety switches except the PTO safety switch. Even this can be finicky as there is a bolt adjustment underneath the left wheel fender (when sitting in seat). The bolt if not finely adjusted will not fully engage the PTO safety switch. I've found too long over-travels the plunger switch or too short does not engage plunger enough. This was my first thought for your issue.
Possibility#2 unscrew the starter solenoid to see if the plunger is slightly bent. You can also remove or add washers to see if that helps the plunger engages properly. If you have to buy another solenoid you can find on Amazon for third of the cost from NH dealer.
TCs are really good tractors. My TC40 only had 1,000 hrs on it, but weather and exposure in FL got to the electrical system and I finally just gave up on it.
 
   / New New Holland #37  
I go to the clutch and follow the pedal/shaft until I find the switch that is SUPPOSED to be activated. If you have done bushogging something could have damaged the detent that pushes the switch OR the switch or wiring has been damaged. Happened to me on my Kioti. Hold the key in start position and slam the clutch down and or jiggle the shifter lever.
 
   / New New Holland #38  
I have a 12 year old (+-) NH TC45A and have a similar intermittent problem. With mine, I've learned to turn the key to start (and keep it turned) and stomp on the left side 'floor'. Doing that jiggles the wire for the safety switch for the clutch. So far, this has worked every time.
 
   / New New Holland
  • Thread Starter
#39  
I have a 12 year old (+-) NH TC45A and have a similar intermittent problem. With mine, I've learned to turn the key to start (and keep it turned) and stomp on the left side 'floor'. Doing that jiggles the wire for the safety switch for the clutch. So far, this has worked every time.
Amazing.
 
   / New New Holland #40  
Best seat switch story ever. I worked at a produce packing plant as assistant plant manager. We got a lot of busted pallets and dirty cardboard and had a three sided concrete block burn structure on the far side of the parking lot to get rid of them. We had a tall, skinny black man named Bubba who always wore loose rubber boots. He worked in the back washing potatoes out of semi trailers and keeping the area clean. One Saturday morning we had come in to run a few loads and the main crew had left and just a few stayed up front to load out the last semi. Bubba was burning some pallets and I was in the maintenance room when I hear flop,flop,flop,flop,flop,flop and Bubba shouting "Mr. Dan, Mr. Dan, the Bobcat shut of in the fire pit and I can't start it! It was actually a brand new John Deere skid steer loader but all skid steer loaders are Bobcats to most people. He shouted he was grabbing a chain so I got the dump truck we used for culls and backed it up to the skid steer. The front tires were already smoking as he got the chain hooked to the truck and loader. I dragged it up to the unloading dock and he took the washout hose and cooled the tires down.

What had happened was he rammed some pallets into the fire and the impact knocked him off the seat, the loader was at an angle and his skinny butt wasn't enough to close the seat switch. Another few minutes and the loader would have been toast. The boss had gone home and no one was in the back to see us. We never told anyone.

That was twenty years ago, to bad there wasn't any security camera footage. Speed up some with Benny Hill chase music it would be a YouTube classic.
 
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