New Jimna 254

slorne · Jan 25, 2005

I received a crate tractor, FEL, and BH over the weekend. I have a few comments, and then a few questions:

New 254's now include - inline hydrolic filter (looks like oil filter) - cigarette lighter - heavy duty under frame mounts for BH - hazard lights for ROP's -

Questions:

How do I drain hydrolic fluid with out getting air in the lines? - should I un hook the quick releases for FEL to make sure all fluid drains completely?

Seem to have a 1/2 inch gap between the steering wheel and the plastic spacer (the spacer has horn contacts) Does anyone know how to address the 1/2 inch gap?

Tractor did not come with any assembly instructions - But there's loads of good info on the web, which has been great. Does anyone know where I can locate assembly instructions?

I appreciate all the great info on this site and others. Any feedback would be great.

Thanks

SevenCorners · Jan 25, 2005

Wow no assembly instructions. I would not know where to start. Glad I bought mine assembled. I know there are those out there that like the assembly experience but how do you know the proper torque or where the bolts go? I bet [hope] they forgot your assembly instructions.

JohnS · Jan 25, 2005

Yep, no instructions from the factory. Also, many crate dealers don't offer instructions, either. Good news is, its not hard to figure out.

I never did a complete write-up on assembly, but you will find the outline in the link below. Don't know how much applies to new Jinmas.

http://johnstractor.com/TracAssm.html

Tractor Outlet has high level instructions.
http://www.tractor-outlet.com/tokit.html

( How do I drain hydrolic fluid with out getting air in the lines? - should I un hook the quick releases for FEL to make sure all fluid drains completely?
)
No, the quick releases have a spring and a ball inside that blocks the line as soon as they are seperated. Never, ever disconnect while engine is running! or plan on buying a new hyd pump.
I just made sure all or most cylinders were compressed/retracted after the hyd oil was warm. Shut-off and drained. This will leave some fluids in the lines to mix with the new oil. Once the new oil is in, take turns activating each cylinder, the air will work its way out under the pressure of the oil.

( Seem to have a 1/2 inch gap between the steering wheel and the plastic spacer (the spacer has horn contacts) Does anyone know how to address the 1/2 inch gap?
)
See: http://johnstractor.com/HornWiring.html I have a rubber type accordian sleave that goes over the outer steering shaft, between hood and steering wheel.

JohnS · Jan 25, 2005

( New 254's now include - inline hydrolic filter (looks like oil filter) - cigarette lighter - heavy duty under frame mounts for BH - hazard lights for ROP's -
)

Whould like to see some pictures, especially filter and hoe frame.

slorne · Jan 25, 2005

John S,

I would like to thank you for the great site and all the information. Your site helped me narrow down my tractor decision, and assisted in assembly with out instructions.

I'll post a photo of the hydrolic filter today. Once again, thank you for the wealth of info on your site.

Slorne

JohnS · Jan 25, 2005

Your welcome. Much of the info on the site was provided by other Jinma owners/dealers. I just provided a place to post it. Glad to see it helps others.

mark1 · Jan 25, 2005

Actually the assembly is easy.Just take your time.look things over and things will all fit. Torque values can be found in any automotive manual.like Chiltons etc. under bolt specs you just have to figure out the metric size and strengths. anything over a cheap bolt is marked. similar to out grade 3,5 & 8's
The Horn adapter I took a needle nose pliers and carefully rebent the ears up and out.They work like a charm.I think it had something to do with a change from 3 spoke to 2 spoke steering wheel and they just wern't the same. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

mark1 · Jan 25, 2005

I checked your info but it dosen't say where you are?? If your within 100 miles of Rochester NY.I'd be glad to Stop in and help!

GRUMPA · Jan 25, 2005

I dont know how much experience you have with new chinese tractors but heres a tip I'll pass on. When you get this thing all together and start using it pay close attention to the lug nuts on all 4 wheels. When using the tractor its advisable to re-torque the lug nuts because the bolt/stud part of it will stretch a bit and eventually if not monitored will result in damage. Just drive it around with tools close-by and re-torque them after a few hours use till they cant be tightened anymore. Sometimes it takes a few hours for those to kinda stretch to a point where they dont stretch anymore. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

slorne · Jan 25, 2005

Mark,

I appreciate the info. I'll try bending the horn contact's up. I have actually been surprised at how easy the assembly has been. Everything is now bolted on (need to go around and torque everthing down).

Finished the electrical last night - only one mis marked wire. This week end I will change out the factory fluid's and try starting the engine.

I have a couple of stupid questions:

1) The key switch has the following letters above key positions - st . off . on . h. st

if you could tell me what each one means it would be great (off and on is clear)

2) i think fluid replacement is as follows:
-5 gal for gear oil (trans and front end)
-5 gal hydraulic
- 7 quarts engine oil
- 6 ounces for injector pump

Once again, thanks for the help.

SPIKER · Jan 25, 2005

those letters for the key are Start to left (when warm no need to switch by the glow plugs) to the right are engine/gauges ON then HEAT ON and then START need to hold the key in the H postion when cold out to warm the glow plugs 10~20 sec, no more than 30 sec or failure can occure.

make sure to check all teh fitting s nuts and bolts EVERYWHERE! lots of things come slightly loose from china trip.

markm

greg_g · Jan 25, 2005

(
2) i think fluid replacement is as follows:
-5 gal for gear oil (trans and front end)
-5 gal hydraulic
- 7 quarts engine oil
- 6 ounces for injector pump )

Spec sheet (in liters) says
6.0l engine oil (assumes filter change)
4.5l front differential
14.0l tranny/rear diff
9.0l hydraulic reservior (doesn't count FEL/backhoe)
8.0l radiator
Don't have a spec on the inj pump, but I've heard a lotta folks talkin' more like 2-3 ounces.
METRIC CONVERSON LINK

//greg//

bluechip · Jan 26, 2005

Well you got lots of words of wisdom here already, as for the horn contacts at the wheel, the membrane switch on the wheel is a little less than durable so we dont wire it up, just use the dash button for the horn. you can slide the rubber boot up and hold it in place with a black tie wrap clamping the bottom of the boot to the steering column.

JohnS · Feb 8, 2005

Here are pics of the new hyd filter: new filter

Wayne_Freeman · Feb 8, 2005

John,

Does the filter actually stick out that far? I have ordered the conversion kit but the way it looks to me I might stand a chance of ripping it off on something!

greg_g · Feb 9, 2005

( Does the filter actually stick out that far? )

I cropped and clarified the part that I think concerns you, and it's not as bad as it looked. If the QD hoses were tied up out of the way, I don't actually think the external filter assembly sticks out all that much farther than did the original rigid pipe position.

Ugly, but effective - I guess that's what counts.

//greg//

JohnS · Feb 9, 2005

Wayne,

It is hard to tell from the pictures. Given the bend in the pipe before it enters the hyd pump, I'd say its does stick out. Once you put a fel on, it is probably not that bad. PM or email me. I'd like to know the total parts ordered (4?), and cost. Thanks.