New House - Central Air

   / New House - Central Air #21  
Alan L. said:
My neighbor who is also working on a bid does all the J Load calculations, whatever you call them, and then increases that by a half or full ton. He says the guys that design the compuations just don't understand how much cooling it takes here in Texas when both the temp or humidity or both may be VERY high for a long period of time. We have had 41 days over 100 degrees this summer.

Some of the guys I deal with in Texas do have a difference of opinion (as far as using the load requirements). Keep in mind, American Standard and Goodman have facilities Texas.

Manual J is for residential load requirements, Manual D is for residential design duct systems.

Keep in mind, duct sizing, airflow and insulation of the ductwork is just as important, if not more, than the proper sized system for the load requirement.

Only advantage of flexible duct systems (AKA spyder systems) is the cost.

Not sure of the codes in your neck of the woods, but if your ductwork is in an uninsulated area, go with R8 flexible duct (here in N.C, our codes changed from R4 to R6).

Thought about a mini split ductless system upstairs and then one system for the downstairs?

If you use mulitple systems, go with programable t-stats, easier to control the temps in areas that you spend/don't spend time in during different times of the day.

If humidity is a major concearn, look at installing a whole house dehumidifier mounted in the ductwork. You would be surprised of the "comfort level" difference between 76 degrees at 60% r humidity compared to 76 degrees at 40% r humidity.

If you look at zoning, make sure you still plan for the full load requirements of the house.

Honestly, 13k for three systems including seperate ductwork for those systems does not sound that bad. Make sure you know what you are getting though (actually, the people giving the quote should expalin in DETAIL what you are getting). Very easy in the HVAC business to be comparing apples to oranges not even know it.

Good luck.
 
   / New House - Central Air #22  
Redneck_Randy said:
I'm late getting in on this thread and admit I didn't read all of the replies. When fitting a new home for A/C size the rule of thumb is 1 ton per 600 sq feet. If you go under that rating the unit will not cycle properly.

Keep in mind, you can take 1-2500 sq ft house and change just a couple of variables in the construction of that house (particularly window space and insulation) and you would be surprised of the variance of "load" difference.
 
   / New House - Central Air #23  
Alan L. said:
I can't put my finger on what is costing so much, it is so spread out. EVERYTHING is too high.

My contractor friend that is helping me on this gave me these figures, which he says is pretty much what the cost will be. I do his taxes, so I know he always makes money and I've never seen him underestimate his costs.

Hi Alan,

A couple things jump out at me that you might want to consider. You're really going to the extreme on your insulation. There is a point when you spend way more than you get in return. It reminds me of a friend who spent hundreds of dollars on a titanium byclicle seat to save a few ounce on weight. He's fatter than I am and hardly ever rides, but he got it in his head that he needed this seat. It's a total waste of money.

My concern is that you are building your dream home based on all the cutting edge, latest discoveries and techniques that won't be significantly better than standard construction. I'm very hesitant on new technology and the latest methods. Tried and proven mean allot more to me than a study put out by the manufacturer. Also realize that the numbers used sometimes don't have real world benifits.

Your high ceiling will be an issue to cool, but the difference in type of roofing material you use is almost insignicant to the feel of your home. I think you get a better job of insulating with the spray on foam, but if you double up on ceiling fiberglass, you save a ton of cash, but get as good, or better R value.

Overall, your numbers are on the high side. I'm not sure if it's labor in your area, or if your contractor is using safe numbers to be sure he's under budget and adding 20 percent to everything.

Before going any further with him, I'd call in a few other builders and see what they say. Get some opinions from different contractors on what you want to use and the benifits of using these materials.

The biggest mistake people make when building a home is to hire a family member or friend to do the job. In allot of cases, it ruins these relationships. I've been called in to finish off jobs because of this.

I don't know your contractor and I'm sure he's very competent and qualified to do the job. But until you shop around, you don't know your options.

Are you relying on your contractor for prices of materials? Don't.

One thing that I've never understood is where they buy your materials from. Most contractors have a supplier that they like to use and use all the time. Here there is a store that allot of guys use that is just allot more expensive than anybody else. There lumber is no better, there service is no better, but there prices reflect premium grade everything. I use McCoys for my jobs and with my discount, the difference is substantial on materials.

Ask what he's paying for certain materials and then price them yourself at different stores. Things like OSB, studs, PT lumber, sheet rock and anything else that you can think of. I've seen .50cent difference in the price of a single framing stud. When you buy a thousand studs, that's a huge difference.

One way to save a few bucks is to go the the post office and get a change of address packet. Home Depot will give you ten percent off on anything you buy with it up to a certain point. I usualy buy my appliances at a specialty store, but lately, they have lost touch. I went to Lowes with the Home Depot discout and they honored it. I then went to Home Depot with the same discount card for other stuff. You can only do this once at each store, but it's a good way to save some money.

Paintable doors are allot cheaper than wood grain.

Carpet is the cheapest flooring, but be sure to shop around. Most all the carpet comes from the same supplier in Dallas, but the retailers all have different prices. Good Carpet is $20 a yard installed. Don't get berber, it's comes apart and doesn't last very long.

Tile is the same way, but installation can kill you. I priced the exact same tile, from the same manufacture, and found a $5 spread per sqare foot. The most expensive was from the same company that so many builders like to use for everything else. I have an account with a smaller flooring company that doesn't carry any inventory. You pick out what you like, they order it and you pick it up.

Cabinets can be one of those things that you really like, or really hate. Are you getting wood grain, or painted? My experience with cabinet builders is that most of them are not very great. They can make a decent cabinet, but the finish is what fails them. Allot of time, the painters have to finish the cabinets. The results can vary ALLOT. The very best cabinet makers have a finishing crew that specializes in staining and sealing there cabinets. They are very good and you pay for those results. For what your paying, I don't think you will get that level of quality. More like $20,000 for a home.

I like Home Depot for kitchen cabinets. They have a good selection and every one of the brands there will have a fantastic finish on them. Baked on under ideal conditions. If something isn't right, you return it and they get you another one. No chasing down the cabinet guy to redo something.

I don't know how big the kitchen is, but from the size of your house, I'd imagine you could get some real nice cabinets from Home Depot and have them installed for half of what you have in your budget. If not, it's always good to look at them anyway to see what you might like that you hadn't considered. Also be sure to see some of work done by the cabinet guy if you go that route. You don't want to be suprised by how they look when they are installed.

Lighting can really add up. Most builders have there electrician who wired the house also install the lights. At $65 an hour, it's kind of pricey to have them connecting lights!!! Shop around on the lights. A specialty store will have entire families of lighting that you can pick that will tie the whole house together. They will deliver and include the bulbs too. Much, much cheaper than Home Depot or Lowes. Also remember that you can paint light fixtures sometimes. If you see one that you like, but it's the wrong color, you can paint it allot cheaper than buying the more exensive one in the same color. Of course, that doesn't apply to the shiny metals, if that's what you like.

Shop around on bricks. I didn't undurstand your pricing, but most brick is around a quarter each. Some will be more. I think you ment to put .42 cents each for what your buying. That's kind of top end. Is there a big difference in that brick and some for allot less??

Mueller is a good source for materials, but putting in those steep roofs is tricky because they are so slippery. Did you ask the sales guy at Mueller who they recomend to install the roofs? They deal with allot of contractors and know the good from the bad. If you like the look of a metal roof, than putting shingles on will not only change the entire look of the house, but you won't be as happy with it either.

Eddie
 
   / New House - Central Air #24  
alan,

the way the 200-320 amp service was explained to me, as I understood it. Some one else pipe in if I am wrong. Is the 200 amp service had a smaller gauge wire coming in and could only have 200 amps worth of breakers. Then the 320 amp panel had a bigger wire and you could have 320 amps worth of breakers.

Another thought we put in dimmer switches on almost every light in the house. we have lots of can lights but we do not want to be blinded by the bright light, so now we just turn down the dimmer when needed.

Make the wife really happy and put in a heated floor and towel warmer in the master bath. Depending on floor size you should come in way under $2,000 for the two (48 sq ft of heated floor space towel warmer and programmable controllers was less than $1,500) everytime Debbie uses those she is happy and if she is happy I am happy.

Eddie again brings up many good points, get several estimates, the cabinets, are you going to put in or think you are going to put in granite counters? If so you need to let the cabinet people know as they will most likely need to upgrade the construction of the cabinet to support the weight. Our old house had lots of particle board cabinets, now way to support the weight, new house all plywood and hard wood. That came at a premium price.

steve
 
   / New House - Central Air #25  
Here in Oregon, you can get 320A service, however, it is called 320A/400A, meaning 320A continuous with a peak draw of 400A. Try pricing one of those meter bases and disconnects, you will be surprised on how expensive they are. You can buy 200A meterbases/panels for less than $100, but a 320A/400A meterbase/disconnect can easily set you back $750. Don't ask me why.

Around here (Portland, OR) you are doing ok if you can get a house built for about $125/ft & up, not sure where this $100/ft is coming from, but I would take that.

Eddie mentioned cabinets and I have to chime in. In our current house, we used prefinished cabinets from a semi local company DeWils in Vancouver, WA and the finish is outstanding. We also used the same cabinets in a house in California and they held up very well. Our previous house, we had unfinished cabinets and they were finished by the painters on site and after a year or so, the finish started to come off, where it was in occasional contact with water, like around the sinks. That being said, I do like the prefinshed cabinets, ours have a 12 year warranty on the finish, but they also have a price tag to go along with that.

Sorry for rambling on.

Derek
 
   / New House - Central Air #26  
Wow, this is disturbing.

We are almost done with our remodeling effort.

We took the old metal roof off and covered it new with scratch built 2X10's and new metal.

- Metal roof with spray in foam insulation - price is right on
- Two Trane 19 SEER handles bottom floor and top with 9 foot ceilings
I barely hear them and they seem pretty good so far. Went dual
because we usually live on the bottom floor. 20k

We had the option of asphalt shingles, but we like metal and well. I will not be replacing it in my lifetime.

-Good luck.
-Mike Z.
 
   / New House - Central Air #27  
And we upped the electric from 150 to 400.

We went from no central heat/air to three systems and redid the electric on the entire farm. Went from aluminum to copper wire.

-Mike Z.
 
   / New House - Central Air #28  
Eddie,

As always, I'm impressed with your knowledge & thoughfullness when it comes to building. If you ever want to beat the heat in New England for a few weeks, I'm fixin to build a "barn" (really a garage that looks like a barn) someday..

As an engineer, I do have to ping you (and the rest of the buildings trade in general - especially in New England) on being on the slow side to adapt new technology. Of course there is a fine line between "new fangled gadget" and "revolutionary new product".

I guess I'm feeling some of Alan's pains - As a homeowner you try to maximize energy effeciency & comfort while minimizing maintance & cost. It seems that the bigger energy savers - super insulation, PV electric panels, geo thermal etc. aren't quite mainstream. When a builder isn't comfortable with a method, they generally charge more for the job (the fudge factor). This keeps homeowners from buying, which keeps the cost up as volume is low for the manufacturers (and the builders are still unfamiliar as they haven't done any jobs yet). It's a catch 22. I actually had a guy on the phone who was trying to convince me that $20,000 (after $10,000 in subsidies) was a great deal on a 3kW Solar panel install. All to save me ~$100 a month in electric bills:confused:
 
   / New House - Central Air #29  
Alan,

I want to emphasize a point made earlier here - pay carefull attention to your windows. When I put my A/C units in I went over the J-spec calcs. I was considering upgrading my insulation in the attic (from R30). Turns out that the 4 double pane windows were as much a heat loss/gain as the roof.:eek: You may want to consider triple pane (if you can afford it). I do hear they are heavy to open as double hung style...
 
   / New House - Central Air #30  
I'm ready to build my new house, and the first bids came in a few days ago, I'm still lying on the floor and the heart defib is nearby!

Mine figured out to close to $200/ sq ft.........................in Kansas............

This is a 2700 sq ft 3 bdrm, 2 bath ranch with a daylight basement (unfinished), no vaulted ceilings (10 ft tho), and my first choice was to go with ICF's.........most of the basement was going to be my shop and a place for the tractor to park.

At this price, I won't be building anything............
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2019 CATERPILLAR 299D2 XHP SKID STEER (A51242)
2019 CATERPILLAR...
4- 6 DRILL COLLARS (A50854)
4- 6 DRILL COLLARS...
2017 Yamaha VX1050B Deluxe Jetski (A50324)
2017 Yamaha...
2018 John Deere 524K-II Articulated Wheel Loader (A50322)
2018 John Deere...
2012 FREIGHTLINER CASCADIA (A50854)
2012 FREIGHTLINER...
1043 (A50459)
1043 (A50459)
 
Top