New House - Central Air

/ New House - Central Air #21  
Alan L. said:
My neighbor who is also working on a bid does all the J Load calculations, whatever you call them, and then increases that by a half or full ton. He says the guys that design the compuations just don't understand how much cooling it takes here in Texas when both the temp or humidity or both may be VERY high for a long period of time. We have had 41 days over 100 degrees this summer.

Some of the guys I deal with in Texas do have a difference of opinion (as far as using the load requirements). Keep in mind, American Standard and Goodman have facilities Texas.

Manual J is for residential load requirements, Manual D is for residential design duct systems.

Keep in mind, duct sizing, airflow and insulation of the ductwork is just as important, if not more, than the proper sized system for the load requirement.

Only advantage of flexible duct systems (AKA spyder systems) is the cost.

Not sure of the codes in your neck of the woods, but if your ductwork is in an uninsulated area, go with R8 flexible duct (here in N.C, our codes changed from R4 to R6).

Thought about a mini split ductless system upstairs and then one system for the downstairs?

If you use mulitple systems, go with programable t-stats, easier to control the temps in areas that you spend/don't spend time in during different times of the day.

If humidity is a major concearn, look at installing a whole house dehumidifier mounted in the ductwork. You would be surprised of the "comfort level" difference between 76 degrees at 60% r humidity compared to 76 degrees at 40% r humidity.

If you look at zoning, make sure you still plan for the full load requirements of the house.

Honestly, 13k for three systems including seperate ductwork for those systems does not sound that bad. Make sure you know what you are getting though (actually, the people giving the quote should expalin in DETAIL what you are getting). Very easy in the HVAC business to be comparing apples to oranges not even know it.

Good luck.
 
/ New House - Central Air #22  
Redneck_Randy said:
I'm late getting in on this thread and admit I didn't read all of the replies. When fitting a new home for A/C size the rule of thumb is 1 ton per 600 sq feet. If you go under that rating the unit will not cycle properly.

Keep in mind, you can take 1-2500 sq ft house and change just a couple of variables in the construction of that house (particularly window space and insulation) and you would be surprised of the variance of "load" difference.
 
/ New House - Central Air #23  
Alan L. said:
I can't put my finger on what is costing so much, it is so spread out. EVERYTHING is too high.

My contractor friend that is helping me on this gave me these figures, which he says is pretty much what the cost will be. I do his taxes, so I know he always makes money and I've never seen him underestimate his costs.

Hi Alan,

A couple things jump out at me that you might want to consider. You're really going to the extreme on your insulation. There is a point when you spend way more than you get in return. It reminds me of a friend who spent hundreds of dollars on a titanium byclicle seat to save a few ounce on weight. He's fatter than I am and hardly ever rides, but he got it in his head that he needed this seat. It's a total waste of money.

My concern is that you are building your dream home based on all the cutting edge, latest discoveries and techniques that won't be significantly better than standard construction. I'm very hesitant on new technology and the latest methods. Tried and proven mean allot more to me than a study put out by the manufacturer. Also realize that the numbers used sometimes don't have real world benifits.

Your high ceiling will be an issue to cool, but the difference in type of roofing material you use is almost insignicant to the feel of your home. I think you get a better job of insulating with the spray on foam, but if you double up on ceiling fiberglass, you save a ton of cash, but get as good, or better R value.

Overall, your numbers are on the high side. I'm not sure if it's labor in your area, or if your contractor is using safe numbers to be sure he's under budget and adding 20 percent to everything.

Before going any further with him, I'd call in a few other builders and see what they say. Get some opinions from different contractors on what you want to use and the benifits of using these materials.

The biggest mistake people make when building a home is to hire a family member or friend to do the job. In allot of cases, it ruins these relationships. I've been called in to finish off jobs because of this.

I don't know your contractor and I'm sure he's very competent and qualified to do the job. But until you shop around, you don't know your options.

Are you relying on your contractor for prices of materials? Don't.

One thing that I've never understood is where they buy your materials from. Most contractors have a supplier that they like to use and use all the time. Here there is a store that allot of guys use that is just allot more expensive than anybody else. There lumber is no better, there service is no better, but there prices reflect premium grade everything. I use McCoys for my jobs and with my discount, the difference is substantial on materials.

Ask what he's paying for certain materials and then price them yourself at different stores. Things like OSB, studs, PT lumber, sheet rock and anything else that you can think of. I've seen .50cent difference in the price of a single framing stud. When you buy a thousand studs, that's a huge difference.

One way to save a few bucks is to go the the post office and get a change of address packet. Home Depot will give you ten percent off on anything you buy with it up to a certain point. I usualy buy my appliances at a specialty store, but lately, they have lost touch. I went to Lowes with the Home Depot discout and they honored it. I then went to Home Depot with the same discount card for other stuff. You can only do this once at each store, but it's a good way to save some money.

Paintable doors are allot cheaper than wood grain.

Carpet is the cheapest flooring, but be sure to shop around. Most all the carpet comes from the same supplier in Dallas, but the retailers all have different prices. Good Carpet is $20 a yard installed. Don't get berber, it's comes apart and doesn't last very long.

Tile is the same way, but installation can kill you. I priced the exact same tile, from the same manufacture, and found a $5 spread per sqare foot. The most expensive was from the same company that so many builders like to use for everything else. I have an account with a smaller flooring company that doesn't carry any inventory. You pick out what you like, they order it and you pick it up.

Cabinets can be one of those things that you really like, or really hate. Are you getting wood grain, or painted? My experience with cabinet builders is that most of them are not very great. They can make a decent cabinet, but the finish is what fails them. Allot of time, the painters have to finish the cabinets. The results can vary ALLOT. The very best cabinet makers have a finishing crew that specializes in staining and sealing there cabinets. They are very good and you pay for those results. For what your paying, I don't think you will get that level of quality. More like $20,000 for a home.

I like Home Depot for kitchen cabinets. They have a good selection and every one of the brands there will have a fantastic finish on them. Baked on under ideal conditions. If something isn't right, you return it and they get you another one. No chasing down the cabinet guy to redo something.

I don't know how big the kitchen is, but from the size of your house, I'd imagine you could get some real nice cabinets from Home Depot and have them installed for half of what you have in your budget. If not, it's always good to look at them anyway to see what you might like that you hadn't considered. Also be sure to see some of work done by the cabinet guy if you go that route. You don't want to be suprised by how they look when they are installed.

Lighting can really add up. Most builders have there electrician who wired the house also install the lights. At $65 an hour, it's kind of pricey to have them connecting lights!!! Shop around on the lights. A specialty store will have entire families of lighting that you can pick that will tie the whole house together. They will deliver and include the bulbs too. Much, much cheaper than Home Depot or Lowes. Also remember that you can paint light fixtures sometimes. If you see one that you like, but it's the wrong color, you can paint it allot cheaper than buying the more exensive one in the same color. Of course, that doesn't apply to the shiny metals, if that's what you like.

Shop around on bricks. I didn't undurstand your pricing, but most brick is around a quarter each. Some will be more. I think you ment to put .42 cents each for what your buying. That's kind of top end. Is there a big difference in that brick and some for allot less??

Mueller is a good source for materials, but putting in those steep roofs is tricky because they are so slippery. Did you ask the sales guy at Mueller who they recomend to install the roofs? They deal with allot of contractors and know the good from the bad. If you like the look of a metal roof, than putting shingles on will not only change the entire look of the house, but you won't be as happy with it either.

Eddie
 
/ New House - Central Air #24  
alan,

the way the 200-320 amp service was explained to me, as I understood it. Some one else pipe in if I am wrong. Is the 200 amp service had a smaller gauge wire coming in and could only have 200 amps worth of breakers. Then the 320 amp panel had a bigger wire and you could have 320 amps worth of breakers.

Another thought we put in dimmer switches on almost every light in the house. we have lots of can lights but we do not want to be blinded by the bright light, so now we just turn down the dimmer when needed.

Make the wife really happy and put in a heated floor and towel warmer in the master bath. Depending on floor size you should come in way under $2,000 for the two (48 sq ft of heated floor space towel warmer and programmable controllers was less than $1,500) everytime Debbie uses those she is happy and if she is happy I am happy.

Eddie again brings up many good points, get several estimates, the cabinets, are you going to put in or think you are going to put in granite counters? If so you need to let the cabinet people know as they will most likely need to upgrade the construction of the cabinet to support the weight. Our old house had lots of particle board cabinets, now way to support the weight, new house all plywood and hard wood. That came at a premium price.

steve
 
/ New House - Central Air #25  
Here in Oregon, you can get 320A service, however, it is called 320A/400A, meaning 320A continuous with a peak draw of 400A. Try pricing one of those meter bases and disconnects, you will be surprised on how expensive they are. You can buy 200A meterbases/panels for less than $100, but a 320A/400A meterbase/disconnect can easily set you back $750. Don't ask me why.

Around here (Portland, OR) you are doing ok if you can get a house built for about $125/ft & up, not sure where this $100/ft is coming from, but I would take that.

Eddie mentioned cabinets and I have to chime in. In our current house, we used prefinished cabinets from a semi local company DeWils in Vancouver, WA and the finish is outstanding. We also used the same cabinets in a house in California and they held up very well. Our previous house, we had unfinished cabinets and they were finished by the painters on site and after a year or so, the finish started to come off, where it was in occasional contact with water, like around the sinks. That being said, I do like the prefinshed cabinets, ours have a 12 year warranty on the finish, but they also have a price tag to go along with that.

Sorry for rambling on.

Derek
 
/ New House - Central Air #26  
Wow, this is disturbing.

We are almost done with our remodeling effort.

We took the old metal roof off and covered it new with scratch built 2X10's and new metal.

- Metal roof with spray in foam insulation - price is right on
- Two Trane 19 SEER handles bottom floor and top with 9 foot ceilings
I barely hear them and they seem pretty good so far. Went dual
because we usually live on the bottom floor. 20k

We had the option of asphalt shingles, but we like metal and well. I will not be replacing it in my lifetime.

-Good luck.
-Mike Z.
 
/ New House - Central Air #27  
And we upped the electric from 150 to 400.

We went from no central heat/air to three systems and redid the electric on the entire farm. Went from aluminum to copper wire.

-Mike Z.
 
/ New House - Central Air #28  
Eddie,

As always, I'm impressed with your knowledge & thoughfullness when it comes to building. If you ever want to beat the heat in New England for a few weeks, I'm fixin to build a "barn" (really a garage that looks like a barn) someday..

As an engineer, I do have to ping you (and the rest of the buildings trade in general - especially in New England) on being on the slow side to adapt new technology. Of course there is a fine line between "new fangled gadget" and "revolutionary new product".

I guess I'm feeling some of Alan's pains - As a homeowner you try to maximize energy effeciency & comfort while minimizing maintance & cost. It seems that the bigger energy savers - super insulation, PV electric panels, geo thermal etc. aren't quite mainstream. When a builder isn't comfortable with a method, they generally charge more for the job (the fudge factor). This keeps homeowners from buying, which keeps the cost up as volume is low for the manufacturers (and the builders are still unfamiliar as they haven't done any jobs yet). It's a catch 22. I actually had a guy on the phone who was trying to convince me that $20,000 (after $10,000 in subsidies) was a great deal on a 3kW Solar panel install. All to save me ~$100 a month in electric bills:confused:
 
/ New House - Central Air #29  
Alan,

I want to emphasize a point made earlier here - pay carefull attention to your windows. When I put my A/C units in I went over the J-spec calcs. I was considering upgrading my insulation in the attic (from R30). Turns out that the 4 double pane windows were as much a heat loss/gain as the roof.:eek: You may want to consider triple pane (if you can afford it). I do hear they are heavy to open as double hung style...
 
/ New House - Central Air #30  
I'm ready to build my new house, and the first bids came in a few days ago, I'm still lying on the floor and the heart defib is nearby!

Mine figured out to close to $200/ sq ft.........................in Kansas............

This is a 2700 sq ft 3 bdrm, 2 bath ranch with a daylight basement (unfinished), no vaulted ceilings (10 ft tho), and my first choice was to go with ICF's.........most of the basement was going to be my shop and a place for the tractor to park.

At this price, I won't be building anything............
 
/ New House - Central Air #31  
Jagmandave, $200 sq foot, for the house it self, or does this include land?

If it is just the house, can I come use your solid gold toilet.

What are you doing for $200 a square foot? I did 9' ceiling, hardwood floors mostly about 1,850 square feet, slate entry, heated tile in master bath, Silestone counter tops in the kitchen 70-80 sq feet, Corian counter tops in bathroom, real wood trim, solid wood interior doors, fiberglass entry door with the leaded window and side windows, fiberglass french door onto the covered trex deck porch, higher end cabinets, several Miele appliances, built in book cabinets, generator ready, lots of elctrical that goes to nothing now like for a future hot tub, and fountain, all Hardi plank siding. We came out to $140 and we live in western WA.

steve
 
/ New House - Central Air
  • Thread Starter
#32  
CurlyDave said:
Jenn Air Cooktop $650

I would scratch the Jenn Air cooktop if it is one of the downdraft vent types. This is the worst idea in venting a cooking surface I have ever seen.

Hot air rises & trying to force it down means too much air flow.

Go for a real hood over a cooktop.

Thanks for the warning. Actually the one my wife wants is just a 5 burner flat top cooktop, 48" wide. The one she liked is made by Jenn-Air (Maytag).
 
/ New House - Central Air
  • Thread Starter
#33  
Eddie:

Thanks for that good information. Here are responses that might clarify the situation:

1. My friend is not a big builder. He actually has a full time job and actually makes about $200K at that, but he and his brothers and another friend started building spec houses back in the 80s and he has been doing 3 or 4 houses a year since then. My daughter lives in one, until yesterday I owned one as a rent house (sold it!!) He has built maybe 15 custom homes in the last few years.

I grew up in building and I have been impressed by the subs that he uses, framers, trim carpenters, etc. He told me long ago that he has alway gotten the best deal on materials from Foxworth Galbraith lumber company. He gives them a plan and they give him an estimate for the entire job, itemized. If he sees anything out of whack He might go somewhere else to get it.

I have the Foxworth estimate and went down to Home Depot and randomly priced some dimension lumber - studs, joists, OSB, etc. I found the estimate to be less than HD's marked price on every item except sheetrock. HD was about 10 cents a sheet less as they were having a big sale. I have been talking directly to the Foxworth guy and he has been very helpful. Randy says their estimate always comes in real close, usually a little higher than actual.

I do know that the estimate had $13,500 for Andersen windows, but the Foxworth guy told us we should try elsewhere as they don't have a good source for them. We have a $7500 estimate from HD.

I'm at a little disadvantage on the lumber because some of it I don't know what it is or what it is used for.

2. Maybe the framing labor is more here at $4.50 a foot. That seemed a little high to me too, but they are in demand and can get all the work they need for that.

3. I fully agree about the leading edge insulation. I think I went into this figuring to get the latest and greatest, but now I am backing off somewhat. I still would really like foam in the walls, however, as I think it would seal it good and permanently, whereas the other products can deteriorate over time.

4. We looked at the cabinets at Home Depot. Did not like them as compared to the cabinets done by the sub that my friend uses. They seem more factory produced, but to me, extremely light and flimsy. I guess "cheap" is another word I have for it. I think the painters always finish the cabinets but I have been happy with what I see. They use a spray on finish that is very smooth and uniform. We are planning to have wood grain pine, hickory, or maple cabinets.

5. On the painted vs stained doors. We originally and still want a log home. However, with the need for energy efficiency, problems with insects, settling issues, lender issues, etc. So, we decided conventional house, but real pine trim, thus the Andersen windows, solid wood doors, and hardwood floors.

6. On the Home Depot discount, I do not currently have a HD credit card. I use the regular cards (but pay them off every month). Maybe I should get one and save $750 on my windows!

7. On the carpet, I have been happy with most of the carpet we have bought, and have never spent more than $16 or so laid with pad. So we don't plan on any super high wool content carpet, and no berber.

What should I pay for tile for walls in the bathroom (only one will have tile) and the floors of the baths and mudroom? By the way, this house has 3 full baths. Master has my shower, my wife's 6-foot jacuzzi, and two sinks. The other one off the mudroom has a fiberglass shower enclosure and the one upstairs has a fiberglass tub enclosure. How does the plumbing estimate look?
 
/ New House - Central Air
  • Thread Starter
#34  
hazmat said:
Alan,

I want to emphasize a point made earlier here - pay carefull attention to your windows. When I put my A/C units in I went over the J-spec calcs. I was considering upgrading my insulation in the attic (from R30). Turns out that the 4 double pane windows were as much a heat loss/gain as the roof.:eek: You may want to consider triple pane (if you can afford it). I do hear they are heavy to open as double hung style...

The windows we have selected are 400 Series Andersens with "low E sun" double hungs, and 3 casements. They have U factor of about .35, and most important is the solar gain coefficient of .25. While they are dual pane, they have a second reflective layer and are supposed to perform as well as triple pane without the weight. Plus, 16 of our 20 windows are under porches.

Our electric rate is about 13 cents, 18 months ago it was 7.

Buy the way, is it worth renting a propane tank just to use a tankless water heater? Seems like the cost savings wouldd be minimal if the the cost of the tank is a factor. And, maybe there are more efficient electric tank heaters than their used to be? Our heat will be strictly heat pump (with emergency elements that would seldom be used).
 
/ New House - Central Air #35  
Sounds like you already did your homework on the windows. I have the 200 series Andersons - the cheapies (we are the third owner).

Re the water heater - I doubt it is cost effecient to rent the propane tank for H/W - especially if you don't need it for anything else. I'd look into a solar hot water heater - you shoud be able to do that for ~$2-3K. I'll bet the Texas sun will make you more h/w than you can use...

Lastly - I did some homework on geothermal when I put my A/C in. It costs a fortune up here, but from what I hear, may be reasonable in other parts of the country - especially if you already have an excavation contractor on site for the foundation work. It is supposed to cut your energy costs by ~75% compared to conventional a/c and heat. I'm assuming this is the last house you plan to build - If you can get less than 10 year payback on the geothermal, go for it... You get "free" hot water with a geothermal when the a/c is running.:cool:
 
/ New House - Central Air
  • Thread Starter
#36  
hazmat said:
Sounds like you already did your homework on the windows. I have the 200 series Andersons - the cheapies (we are the third owner).

Re the water heater - I doubt it is cost effecient to rent the propane tank for H/W - especially if you don't need it for anything else. I'd look into a solar hot water heater - you shoud be able to do that for ~$2-3K. I'll bet the Texas sun will make you more h/w than you can use...

Lastly - I did some homework on geothermal when I put my A/C in. It costs a fortune up here, but from what I hear, may be reasonable in other parts of the country - especially if you already have an excavation contractor on site for the foundation work. It is supposed to cut your energy costs by ~75% compared to conventional a/c and heat. I'm assuming this is the last house you plan to build - If you can get less than 10 year payback on the geothermal, go for it... You get "free" hot water with a geothermal when the a/c is running.:cool:

The solar water heater, though pricey, might make sense. The guy that did my plans has geothermal. He says it has been a disaster. His has broken down on several occassions, and he has been down as long as 5 weeks waiting for parts. He has already replaced part of the system with regular air heatpumps. Of couse this is one situation, but the problem is that we don't have many HVAC constractors down here that do it, and so if any thing breaks its hard to get someone that can fix it.
 
/ New House - Central Air #37  
Alan
I second what Eddie said about the Home Depot cabinet's. If you look in the project's section and for the thread kitchen remodel the cabinet's are the second grade (Home depot has 3 grades around here) Honey Maple cabinet's. The frames are laminate all the joint's are glued and nailed and set in datto's. The drawer's and door's are made from solid wood. My parent's paid around 2 grand for the cabinet's and laminate counter top. Would have been more but the sales rep took $600 off with out even having to haggel. You measure the kitchen and take them the measurement's they then take your measurement's and give you a very detailed plan and if you decide to go with them they send out their contractor to double check all of your measurement's (no cost to you). Excellent customer service when they delivered the cab's they didn't deliver the counter top's so they took the delivery charge off again with out even asking them to. When it came time to install the cabinet's found out the filler strip's were the wrong wood called H.D. up and had them a week later no ?'s asked. So as you can see I would recommend them to everyone and would definetly use them again.
Also, to save some money on the plumbing you could do it yourself and run PEX if it is allowed in your area. Nothing more than running "garden hoses" from the fixtures to a main dist. manifold. No soldiering needed.
 
Last edited:
/ New House - Central Air
  • Thread Starter
#38  
WhyNot said:
Alan
I second what Eddie said about the Home Depot cabinet's. If you look in the project's section and for the thread kitchen remodel the cabinet's are the second grade (Home depot has 3 grades around here) Honey Maple cabinet's. The frames are laminate all the joint's are glued and nailed and set in datto's. The drawer's and door's are made from solid wood. My parent's paid around 2 grand for the cabinet's and laminate counter top. Would have been more but the sales rep took $600 off with out even having to haggel. You measure the kitchen and take them the measurement's they then take your measurement's and give you a very detailed plan and if you decide to go with them they send out their contractor to double check all of your measurement's (no cost to you). Excellent customer service when they delivered the cab's they didn't deliver the counter top's so they took the delivery charge off again with out even asking them to. When it came time to install the cabinet's found out the filler strip's were the wrong wood called H.D. up and had them a week later no ?'s asked. So as you can see I would recommend them to everyone and would definetly use them again.
Also, to save some money on the plumbing you could do it yourself and run PEX if it is allowed in your area. Nothing more than running "garden hoses" from the fixtures to a main dist. manifold. No soldiering needed.

Wow, sounds like Home Depot cabints are popular. I guess the answer is that we want something more substantial, more real wood and plywood as opposed to particle board. More unobtrusive hardware, etc. The particular ones we looked at in HD just seemed very lightweight nad not inexpensive at all.
 
/ New House - Central Air
  • Thread Starter
#39  
BillG_in_TX said:
Alan,

I'm no expert, but I have a friend here is Dallas that is a builder/remodeler and he tells me that $100/sq is a ballpark estimate for a good asphalt roof, and $175-$200/sq would be a good estimate for a roof using material like Mueller's CF Panel - Mueller, Inc. - Steel Buildings and Metal Roofing. Neither one of those quotes include the decking, which is usually included in the framing cost, but would include all labor and materials above that.

63 squares @ $200 would only be $12,600, so I'm not sure what kind of metal roof you're considering, but it must be nice! Also, I assume you are planning to use a radiant barrier, like TechShield Radiant Barrier – LP, right?

edit: the above numbers were for a house I am considering, which is very simple rectangle with a large shed dormer on one side and none on the other. Eddie Walker can probably give you better information on Mueller costs, since I think he & Steph just put one on their house. Better yet, maybe they'll come over and install one for you!

This is what I thought, but I received a bid directly from Mueller that totals about $340 per square for their galvalume CF panel. Called two other roofing contractors and they esimated from $160 to $300 per square for labor alone. My 12 pitch roof has something to do with this.
 
/ New House - Central Air #40  
Buy the way, is it worth renting a propane tank just to use a tankless water heater?

Could you pair it up to a gas dryer? Maybe you don't need a dryer in texas? I only have a small propane tank to run the gas dryer on my property, I have been wondering if I put in the tankless water heater if the small tank would suffice.
 

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