New Holland Boomer 37 in DPF Shutdown Mode

[thclimer]

usually where the governor limits it from going any higher.... 2300-2500 RPM.

I would definetly think that is high enough too! I just wanted to make sure you were not running something like 1,100 - 1,200rpm's

 

[alexpops]

Check the egr valve for excess soot. Sometimes those will gum things up. Ditto on a stuck crankcase breather. My 16 hasn't been a problem yet, but if it becomes one, I think Jrasband's approach will be my solution.

 

[Kevin Kelly]

I can certainly understand that when they asking that much.

I wonder how closely you have to mimic the resistance of the filter and if there is differential pressure sensor across it, is there a range where it needs to be happy?

thclimer..... you might be onto something! I just emailed the service department and asked him to help be better understand what is going on. When the DPF is cleaned and reinstalled, they are going to check the differential pressure sensors. He said the computer determines soot load by reading the pressure difference between the inlet and outlet of the DPF. Obviously, if the sensor is not functioning correctly, it will send the computer bad information.

 

[thclimer]

thclimer..... you might be onto something! I just emailed the service department and asked him to help be better understand what is going on. When the DPF is cleaned and reinstalled, they are going to check the differential pressure sensors. He said the computer determines soot load by reading the pressure difference between the inlet and outlet of the DPF. Obviously, if the sensor is not functioning correctly, it will send the computer bad information.

Something sure seems a little concerning here.

You mention the first time (July 2021) you had issues and the dealer serviced your Boomer that the DPF filter "did not have a heavy soot load" but the tractor acted like it was putting you into limited operation because of a unsuccessful regeneration of the filter.

This most recent time the dealership is telling you your filter is so loaded that they need to send it out for cleaning.

I hope your dealer is able confirm each component of your emissions system is functioning correctly as something is just not working as designed.

 

[Ky1200]

I just deleted the system on my 2015 LS xg3032. our two tractors are practically identical. To remove the system all you have to do is run power from the ignition to the solenoid. Unplug the other plugs which go to the solenoid. The solenoid plug that you run power to is two wires - make one go to ground, the other goes to the ignition(hot). In addition to this you remove the DPF filter, and knock out what is remaining behind it. The only other thing you have to do is run a throttle cable from the hand throttle to the lever on the injection pump.

Good luck putting it in the shop for repairs if you go that route. I put mine in the shop and paid $4,700, waited 1 1/2 years, got it back just for it to go into limp mode again very soon after. I ended up taking it to a local retired tractor mechanic and we had that thing running in 30 minutes just by removing the solenoid as a first test. The only reason you need to run power to the solenoid is so the ignition can shut the tractor off.



Private message me if you have any questions or would like some pictures for reference.

For any of you hesitant to try this, it works!!!! Fixed my boomer 37 this week. Big thanks to member Jrasband!!!!! It's hard to believe there is so much stuff creating back pressure in the exhaust system.

 

[LouNY]

I certainly need to ask the dealer a lot of questions when the tractor is ready to come home. Running at full throttle all the time doesn't seem right.

When talking to your dealer just remember that he can not tell you how to do any kind of work around for your dpf issues. He can and will be found in violation of a ton of epa regulations and subject to severe fines and even jail time just for talking about how to bypass emission controls.

 

[Jackfr]

I just deleted the system on my 2015 LS xg3032. our two tractors are practically identical. To remove the system all you have to do is run power from the ignition to the solenoid. Unplug the other plugs which go to the solenoid. The solenoid plug that you run power to is two wires - make one go to ground, the other goes to the ignition(hot). In addition to this you remove the DPF filter, and knock out what is remaining behind it. The only other thing you have to do is run a throttle cable from the hand throttle to the lever on the injection pump.

Good luck putting it in the shop for repairs if you go that route. I put mine in the shop and paid $4,700, waited 1 1/2 years, got it back just for it to go into limp mode again very soon after. I ended up taking it to a local retired tractor mechanic and we had that thing running in 30 minutes just by removing the solenoid as a first test. The only reason you need to run power to the solenoid is so the ignition can shut the tractor off.



Private message me if you have any questions or would like some pictures for reference.

Our 2015 New Holland Workmaster 33 has a Shibaura N843T-F-24 engine. I Looked for the the throttle lever on the injector pump and can not find one. Is it inboard where I can't see it? Any Suggestions

 

[Jrasband]

Our 2015 New Holland Workmaster 33 has a Shibaura N843T-F-24 engine. I Looked for the the throttle lever on the injector pump and can not find one. Is it inboard where I can't see it? Any Suggestions

View attachment 800528

Your photo is too close to point out where the lever is. Basically, when standing beside the tractor right behind the front wheel. Look at the bottom right hand corner of the injection pump where it meets the timing gear assembly. There is a small inspection plate covering up the throttle lever. Remove the cover and you will see the linkage underneath there. Just loosen the bolts that prevent you from being able to adjust the throttle. There is one for RPM up limit, and one to set idle. Just make sure you do not let the engine run higher than 2,500 rpm or you risk engine damage.

I will get a couple pictures so you can see what I am talking about.

 

[Williy]

Kevin Kelly check out these web sites perhaps you can find something
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willy

 

[Jackfr]

Your photo is too close to point out where the lever is. Basically, when standing beside the tractor right behind the front wheel. Look at the bottom right hand corner of the injection pump where it meets the timing gear assembly. There is a small inspection plate covering up the throttle lever. Remove the cover and you will see the linkage underneath there. Just loosen the bolts that prevent you from being able to adjust the throttle. There is one for RPM up limit, and one to set idle. Just make sure you do not let the engine run higher than 2,500 rpm or you risk engine damage.

I will get a couple pictures so you can see what I am talking about.

Thanks found it. Which one is for the upper limit? Maybe the forward one? Lower limit? how many turns did you back themoff from the lock down position or did you remove them completely?