3-Point Hitch New holland 3930 top link latch ??

[AlbertC]

I don't seem to be able to close the latch on the top link of my tractor. The sleeve turns easily on the threaded rod but I think I should be able to close the latch down against the sleeve to lock it in place and I can't. I can move the latch from open to about half way closed but this is as far as it seems to want to go before binding up.

Also I think you are supposed to be able to change the linkage category of the top link end by unscrewing the implement end of the top link. When I try to do this, my implement end is bound up and doesn't turn.

I put some oil down between the implement end and the sleeve in an attempt to loosen everything up but it hasn't helped. Anybody have any ideas about what is wrong or what I can do to free up the latch so that it will close?

Thanks.

 

[lpigott]

Sounds like corrosion to me. Use PB blaster, Kroil or even WD and let it soak then work spray work soak and so forth. You can always just buy a new top link, they don't cost much.

 

[Farmer495]

Is this one of the NH top links that has a FLAT portion on the thread rod? If so the latch will only latch if the flat part is lined up with the latch. You should be able to spin BOTH ends out and grease.

Now, if the top link has the flat section and you forced the latch, you could have damaged the threads so it WON'T turn.

 

[3Lfarms]

There are so many different top links across all the makes that a picture would really help.
Personally, I really like Fluid Film on the threads and balls of the links.

 

[LouNY]

A lot of toplinks have the threads deformed at the ends so that they will NOT turn all the way, that's to prevent someone from lengthening them out and dropping an implement.

 

[AlbertC]

Here are some pictures

 

[LouNY]

can you lengthen that toplink? it is definitely shortened up all the way in those pics, is the lower section screwed in as far as the upper?

 

[AlbertC]

I can't turn the top part of the top link at all. It seems like it is bound up. The bottom half turns freely.

 

[LouNY]

OK, that makes sense, a pipe wrench on the middle section ( the sleeve) and a long bar in the eye of the top section,turn it in the opposite direction the bottom does to lengthen, or take it off the tractor and put it in a vice to work on it.

 

[Farmer495]

View attachment 536994View attachment 536995View attachment 536996

Here are some pictures

I'm pretty sure That the top link type I was talking about. There is a flat portion on the threads that is the ONLY place the latch is to be secured on. You've engaged the latch when the flat part of the thread was in the wrong place and ruined the threads.

1) Remove top link
2) open the latch
3) unscrew the free end and remove
3) Spray PB blaster or similar on threads and spray oil dump the barrel (where you removed the other end)
4) Take Two pipe wrenches or large vice and one pipe wrench attempt to spin the bad end out (it turned DIFFERENT than the other end i.e. onside is LH thread, the other RH)
5) Once you get it passed the damaged threads it should come easy.
6) touch up threads with thread file.

By the way....BTDT one someone else's NH and I had to fix it....

 

[AlbertC]

Farmer 495

Thanks for all the info. I am going to try to try this later on this week. I was never aware that the link had a flat area.

 

[tcreeley]

I have a toplink kicking around that has one end stuck and the other is free turning, I just stopped using it and got another.

 

[Farmer495]

Farmer 495

Thanks for all the info. I am going to try to try this later on this week. I was never aware that the link had a flat area.

Hope it works out for you. I think you'll find the lever swings down nicely against the top link when everything is working and the flat part is lined up.

 

[AlbertC]

Hope it works out for you. I think you'll find the lever swings down nicely against the top link when everything is working and the flat part is lined up.

Farmer495

This afternoon I had the time to work on my top link. What I found was EXACTLY what you described in your earlier post.

After securing the top link in the vise and turning the upper link clockwise with a pipe wrench I was able to remove the upper link from the tube. I found that the first thread had been flattened and was apparently what was causing the link to bind. (Note it was also as you described- I had to turn it in the opposite direction as the lower link which turned counter clockwise to screw it out).

Also as you described, the upper link is flat on the side and I found several deep gashes on the flats where someone must have really cranked down on it. I think I can file out the damaged thread and I am also going to grind out the deep gashes on the flat side of the link. After doing this and cleaning and oiling the threads I think it will work fine.

Thanks for detailing what you thought the problem was.

 

[Farmer495]

Farmer495

This afternoon I had the time to work on my top link. What I found was EXACTLY what you described in your earlier post.

After securing the top link in the vise and turning the upper link clockwise with a pipe wrench I was able to remove the upper link from the tube. I found that the first thread had been flattened and was apparently what was causing the link to bind. (Note it was also as you described- I had to turn it in the opposite direction as the lower link which turned counter clockwise to screw it out).

Also as you described, the upper link is flat on the side and I found several deep gashes on the flats where someone must have really cranked down on it. I think I can file out the damaged thread and I am also going to grind out the deep gashes on the flat side of the link. After doing this and cleaning and oiling the threads I think it will work fine.

Thanks for detailing what you thought the problem was.

You are welcome, glad it worked out for you. Nothing light having the proper top link.