New BX25D-1, in the Garage!! They fixed the rolling issue, too!!!!!!

[nikerret]

I got one! I got one!

Got the TLB with a 12" bucket and the 3 PT kit. I added the Land Pride RB0560 rear blade. I got a little more off than originally offered because they didn't have the RB1560 I wanted-still pretty happy with the purchase.

There were Document Fees of $65.

Five years of KTAC Insurance was $1,057.73.

Made the final purchase price $17,890.73. That comes out to $298.18 per month for 60 months.

I paid cash for a wheel spinner, orange paint can, 2 quart's motor oil, 1 gallon SUDT, a thing of grease, an oil and a hydro filter, a grease gun, and fluid rear ballast in the tires. Came out under $125. Dealer cut me a deal on those, with tractor purchase.

I didn't think the deal was going to go as the tractor did the rolling thing when I let off the throttle. They were able to fix it. I'm sure everyone wants to know how they did it. The issue was the pedal not returning to the midpoint. They showed me where to make the adjustment, if it got loose. I will post pictures of the piece, tomorrow.

How bad was the roll? Down a slight incline, in H, it didn't stop, at all-just coasted to the bottom. On flat ground at 2,600 RPM from WOT to let off, I rolled about 15 feet forward and ten, or so, backward It rolled about the same in L or H. Now, it rolls about two to three feet, which I feel is perfect. Any more, and it would be too jarring to let off.

The dealer was eager to make it right and agreed I shouldn't buy it, if it wasn't correct.

I want to get a cutting edge, but forgot to ask about it until after we left. In the end, we were at the dealer around four hours. Test rides, decisions, paperwork, test ride, decisions, buy more stuff, choose hats, more decisions, look at future purchases. I bought from Ravenscraft in Whitewater, KS, and can't recommend them enough. The owner has been there all three times I've visited and is always willing to help out, in any way. They will also send a tech to your place of tractor failure and retrieve the product, for warranty issues as a free service (and I live 75 miles away). When I asked the salesman about it, he said it wasn't a issue offering it as they almost never have any issues and when there are issues, they want them to get corrected. He said they would be getting after Kubota, if there were many warranty claims.

Here's a link to their site: Lawn & Garden Equipment Dealer, Whitewater KS | Near Derby, Maize, Hutch, El Dorado & Newton | Parts & Service Repairs

Here's the obligatory "loading it on the trailer" pic:

 

[zapper]

Nice would like to see picture on how hydro pedal was adjusted

 

[dragoneggs]

Yeah congrats! Any intel on adjusting the pedal would be interesting.

 

[DT86]

Good luck with your new machine! Have fun getting it dirty.

 

[Coyote machine]

Nice rig! You might have to use chain binders on that load on the trailer, don't know for sure, but better to find out than get stopped and fined.:confused3:

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Nice rig! You might have to use chain binders on that load on the trailer, don't know for sure, but better to find out than get stopped and fined.:confused3:

Hauling BXs, Bs, L, Fs for 12 years and never used anything other than the straps for 12 years in Ky.
Congratulations on the BX25 purchase.:thumbsup:

 

[melmark]

Thats a very good price for what you got. Congrats.

 

[Coyote machine]

Hauling BXs, Bs, L, Fs for 12 years and never used anything other than the straps for 12 years in Ky.
Congratulations on the BX25 purchase.:thumbsup:

He's not in Kentucky, he's in Kansas. Here's a random search answer as to regs for load binding to trailers re: Kansas

Subject: Re: DOT tie down rules


"Phillips Co NW Kansas: Here in KS I believe we are required to have four tie-down points and if you have an attachment or bucket it has to have a chain over it too. Four points does not mean one chain front and rear with two boomers on each chain. It means 4 separate chains unless your chains are long enough you can make loops out of it. My old boss was very very particular about the DOT regs and always made sure he was up to date on them".

Not saying I'm right, but it is worth knowing the rules, yes?

 

[kcender]

Congratulations on the new tractor.They are a real workhorse for their size.I am interested to find out more about the pedal adjustment.There have been some very vocal people in regards to this issue.Hopefully it is a simple adjustment to fix.

 

[s219]

It is very simple -- just an adjustment to the damper/spring mechanism on the treadle.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

He's not in Kentucky, he's in Kansas. Here's a random search answer as to regs for load binding to trailers re: Kansas

Subject: Re: DOT tie down rules


"Phillips Co NW Kansas: Here in KS I believe we are required to have four tie-down points and if you have an attachment or bucket it has to have a chain over it too. Four points does not mean one chain front and rear with two boomers on each chain. It means 4 separate chains unless your chains are long enough you can make loops out of it. My old boss was very very particular about the DOT regs and always made sure he was up to date on them".

Not saying I'm right, but it is worth knowing the rules, yes?

Lots of people believe lots of different ways but still doesn't make it right. Doesn't seem to be much proof about what the laws in the state of Ks are.

Congratulations on the new tractor.They are a real workhorse for their size.I am interested to find out more about the pedal adjustment.There have been some very vocal people in regards to this issue.Hopefully it is a simple adjustment to fix.

It is very simple -- just an adjustment to the damper/spring mechanism on the treadle.

No so. Only a Two to three foot roll is NOT fixed for a HST after foot pedal released. I wasn't going to respond since OP seems satisfied but again when one releases their foot from the HST pedal and it doesn't stop it's wrong. There is an adjustment which my dealer did twice which caused and immediate and proper stop in reverse but they could never get it to stop correctly for an HST in forward.
I don't have to worry about it now since I traded the BX25D-1 to a Gehl Skid steer 3640e and it stops immediately when the lever is released.:thumbsup:

 

[s219]

JT, all due respect, but your singular experience does not jive with how the dampers work. I have no doubt your BX had an issue, but that doesn't make it universal, nor does your dealer's lack of ability to fix it. If it was different in forward than reverse, that right there tells me the damper was not behaving right and should have been replaced or examined by someone with more mechanical ability.

The other thing to keep in mind is that the abruptness of the stop is also dependent on what gear you are in, and I seldom see people make any distinction about that (and conversely, smoothness of starts behaves opposite in terms of gearing).

 

[devildog1]

Congrats on your new Kubota Tractor, she's a beaut, enjoy.
DevilDog

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

JT, all due respect, but your singular experience does not jive with how the dampers work. I have no doubt your BX had an issue, but that doesn't make it universal, nor does your dealer's lack of ability to fix it. If it was different in forward than reverse, that right there tells me the damper was not behaving right and should have been replaced or examined by someone with more mechanical ability.

The other thing to keep in mind is that the abruptness of the stop is also dependent on what gear you are in, and I seldom see people make any distinction about that (and conversely, smoothness of starts behaves opposite in terms of gearing).

Sounds logical but just not the way it is with the BX25D-1 and it wasn't just mine and even this purchase is the same rolling only 2 or 3 feet. Also, what's your answer to all BX2350s abrupt stop in reverse that was never fixed until the BX2360 was released that didn't have the issue. Good to be so sure about something you don't or never have owned.

 

[nikerret]

Sorry for the delay. Here are the pictures of what they adjusted. It's the silver piece shaped like a sock that has an adjustment area by the grease. To me, it just looks like a cam that gives a different distance as it's rotated. If you look at the tractor from the right side (side of the hydraulic FEL bucket controls), its just under the pedals.

In the picture, it looks like mine started all the way at the bottom, but I don't remember what the tech said.
From the outside:


From laying under the tractor, by the mid-PTO, looking to the outside of the right (pedal) side of the tractor. You can see I have some adjustment left and have over-filled the pedal zerk with Kubota grease. I had some issues with the Kubota grease gun, too, but was able to rectify it by loosening the end.:


As to the 2-3 feet stopping distance, it is consistently around 2 feet (I didn't measure), from around 2,800 RPM with the pedal all the way down. This is abrupt enough to make my a slight slide in the seat-jeans-butt, contact point. Any more abrupt and I would have to wear the seatbelt, just to stay on.

JOHNTHOMAS, how abrupt should it be? There has to be some roll, it's physically impossible to stop instantaneously. Six inches, a foot, what do you think. As you can see, I still have some adjustment left, if I need to wrench it.



Towing Issues:
From what I can find, the way we secured the load was within legal and physical recommendations. Remember, I am not a commercial vehicle. According to KSA 08-1906(c): No person shall operate on any highway any vehicle with any load unless such load and any covering thereon is securely fastened so as to prevent the covering or load from becoming loose, detached or in any manner a hazard to other users of the highway.

My friend, who works at the County R&B (part of his job is towing large equipment), helped me secure it. We used two 10,000 pound heavy duty ratchet straps on the back (didn't X them, though). I, the front, we used one of those straps through the front frame to each corner of the trailer. We then used the fourth strap over the FEL bucket.

It will be easier to load, in the future, after I weld some heavy duty D-rings on.

My friend said what they usually do is get the two front chains on and back up the equipment, so it's tight. Then, they bind the rear two chains. After towing it a few times, I'll probably go to the store and buy some short lengths of Grade 70 chain and make them just for towing my tractor.


I played for around 1.6 hours, today. I had to work on my garage-made some room! I was careful to regularly adjust the RPM and made sure to warm it thoroughly. Carrying 350 pounds of sand bags to the shed was easy-peasy! Would have sucked with the shoulder or wheel barrow methods.


I do have one issue. The left turn signal is not working. It doesn't work to indicate left or with the hazards. If anyone has any ideas, shoot!

Here's the garage, before and after:

 

[dragoneggs]

Thanks for posting the HST linkage pics! I will have to get my bones down under to see where mine is set at and maybe tinker with it.

Do I see a Landpride rake off to the right? I have one and really like it. A bit of a luxury but it beats hardcore raking.

 

[s219]

It looks like they adjusted exactly the right thing. The black "bellows" looking object is a boot over the viscous damper that controls how the foot treadle and HST input linkage returns to center. The other end of the damper is pinned to the frame. By adjusting the nut you pointed out, you control how far the damper is depressed with travel of the foot treadle, and thus how quickly/slowly the damper will "ooze" back to neutral position.

I am in agreement that you don't want it to stop too abruptly. In fact, it will behave differently depending on what gear you're in, so try each range and see how you like it. On the Kubotas I have owned, they stop fairly abruptly when letting off the treadle, but that still takes a foot or two depending on the speed and the gear. If the tractor really did stop instantaneously when running in high gear at top speed and letting off the treadle, you'd likely get thrown out of the seat. So there should be a little bit of transition before stopping.

The problem people have noticed on other BX25D-1 tractors is that they don't seem to stop at all; in reality, the damper was taking too long to return back to neutral, thus the tractor coasted for what felt like indefinitely. But the damper would have to eventually return to center, otherwise the tractor would never be able to sit still. It just wasn't returning fast enough to be noticeable.

Dampers are generally non-linear, meaning that the return-to-neutral behavior will change disproportionally to the adjustment of motion. It takes trial and error, or previous experience, to adjust them right. Sounds like the tech at your dealership knew what he was doing, especially if he took the time to show it to you.

 

[nikerret]

It's not a rake, its the Land Pride RB0560 (smallest rear blade).

Thus far, I am very satisfied with the dealer. Other than the turn signal....I'm sure we will get it sorted out, shortly.

 

[s219]

On the turn signal, I'd check the bulb first, and then the wiring. Might even just need to wiggle the bulb in the socket.

 

[dragoneggs]

It's not a rake, its the Land Pride RB0560 (smallest rear blade).

Thus far, I am very satisfied with the dealer. Other than the turn signal....I'm sure we will get it sorted out, shortly.

Yeah 'they' say to pair a BX with a 5ft blade. I have a 6ft Rankin blade that I would love to cut about 3in off of each side. Nice and heavy which I like but a bit too long of a cut for my BX I think.