New Brakes On 336D

[Markey]

I was thinking exactly the same.

A few years ago the previous owner of a 1610D ruined the case by trying to remove the brake drum and cracked the case due to forgetting (or not knowing) to remove the clip retainer. $700. plus freight for an empty case.

Is there a retainer clip that I need to remove?? Where is it located? As I previously mentioned, neither my parts book or service manual show it. I know that these books are not 100% accurate. Please advise. By the way, my brake shoes are already cleaned up as well as the inside of the cover. I just need to remove that stubborn drum!

 

[kenmac]

I don't remember my 3110D having a retainer clip. Just the big nut & washer.That drum probably hasn't been off since it was installed some 25 or so years ago.

 

[lens12]

Sometimes they pull of & sometimes they are froze. It may require some heat.

 

[Markey]

Last night I did hit it with some heat. I concentrated the flame on the center part of the cast brake drum which is outside of the spline shaft. I moved the heat all the way around the center of the brake drum casting. I also continued spraying with PB Blaster in addition to tapping with hammer. I did not want to heat too much for fear of melting the rubber seal washer behind the center of the drum. Still stuck!

 

[MJPetersen]

Try DieselMechanics wax treatment. Seems like this is a perfect opportunity to give it a go. Do a search on "paraffin wax." Under the discussion of repairs and then "Wax used on rusted parts"

Mike

 

[Markey]

Brake drum FINALLY broke free last night. I used larger tip on torch and continued spraying with PB BLaster. When I again tapped edge of drum with hammer, I could see Blaster moving in and out of spline. That is when I knew that I was close. The rubber seal looks fine. I just have to clean up rust in cast housing. Brake drum will be sand blasted this weekend. Since no rain water could have gotten inside brake drum/casting area due to tight gasket seal, I believe rust was caused by condensation. But then again, wouldn't condensation form only on the exterior metal surfaces and not inside. Hmmm. Upon further thinking-- if tractor was run outside in cold winter weather, hydraulic fluid would get warm/hot. When parking tractor at end of day in unheated area, the housing cast metal would cool off at a much faster rate than the fluid. Since the hot fluid is on the other side of the casting wall, that would cause moisture condensation on the other side (Brake housing side). Does that sound right?? Thank to all for your valuable input. By the way, I will put either anti-seize or silicon on spline prior to attaching drum.

 

[LMTC]

Likely a drain plug in the bottom of the brake housing....remove it and leave it out. The closed system increases condensation.

 

[Markey]

Likely a drain plug in the bottom of the brake housing....remove it and leave it out. The closed system increases condensation.

Unfortunately, there is not a drain plug in the bottom of the housing. Tomorrow, I will get the sandblasted drum and reinstall the entire left side. Moving on, I have taken apart the other side (right side). Surprisingly, there was no rust as compared to the left side. Just a lot of brake dust and frozen shoes. Now for the kicker. The large 32mm nut that secures the drum to the spline (pinion) is absolutely frozen. I tried all of the methods. I was using my 10 inch Craftsman 1/2 ratchet with a 2+ foot steel pipe over it for added leverage. Guess what? I broke the ratcheting mechanism. That was a first for me. That nut is so very tight, that the rear wheel was spinning as I tried to loosen the nut. I even locked the differential pedal and chocked the wheel! Tomorrow I will get a large breaker bar. That will either loosen the nut or break the shaft. This is what happens when working on a 25 year old tractor.

 

[LMTC]

If not a drain plug, perhaps a steel vent tube protruding from the top. If so, fit a piece of plastic/rubber hose over it long enough to hang down....so it doesn't take rain....and this will help equalize moisture and temperature inside and out.

 

[MJPetersen]

do not forget to try the wax--it really does work.

Mike

 

[Markey]

I already tried the wax. Did not work. I thought I had it solved! Wrong! I tried using my 12 volt impact wrench. I could not believe that it did not crack open the nut. Whew! One tough not indeed. Now, I hope I am working with standard threads and not reverse threads! Nut on left pinion/spline loosened counterclockwise. I hope nut on right side is same way. I have been bullwinkling the right nut counterclockwise too.

 

[kenmac]

they come off the standard way rt -tight lf- loose

 

[Markey]

they come off the standard way rt -tight lf- loose

Kenmac, thank you for verifying. It makes me feel better that I have been doing all of that tugging in the proper direction -- counterclockwise to loosen for both sides. I just can't believe that 2.5 feet stell pipe extension over 10" ratchet did not even break the nut loose. Yea, it broke my ratchet mechanism. That is a heck of a lot of torque!!! I realize that it didn't help that the rear wheel was sometimes moving when I torqued the nut. I chocked it as beat as I could and hit the differential lock. Maybe I need a wall in front of the front bumper to brace the tractor from moving forward when applying torque to the nut. Hmmm. Just a thought!

 

[kenmac]

Don't know why you are having that much trouble . Mine came off with air inpac wrench.I keep mine connected to 175 psi side of my compressor. Don't use a ratchet with a cheater. Use a pull handle

 

[Jagmandave]

Maybe I need a wall in front of the front bumper to brace the tractor from moving forward when applying torque to the nut. Hmmm. Just a thought!\

I think you may have found you problem...........if you're working on the right side of the tractor and the tractor is moving forward as you apply torque to the nut, you must be turning it to the right..........ie: tightening it?

 

[Markey]

Maybe I need a wall in front of the front bumper to brace the tractor from moving forward when applying torque to the nut. Hmmm. Just a thought!\

I think you may have found you problem...........if you're working on the right side of the tractor and the tractor is moving forward as you apply torque to the nut, you must be turning it to the right..........ie: tightening it?

I am definitely torquing the nut counterclockwise. I have a large block of wood in front of the right rear tire to try to inhibit the tire from rotating forward when counterclockwise torque is applied. Remember, the large nut that secures the drum is attached to the spline/pinion which, in-turn is geared to the rear axel. The spline/pinion turns in the opposite direction of the same-side axle.

 

[normde2001]

I am definitely torquing the nut counterclockwise. I have a large block of wood in front of the right rear tire to try to inhibit the tire from rotating forward when counterclockwise torque is applied. Remember, the large nut that secures the drum is attached to the spline/pinion which, in-turn is geared to the rear axel. The spline/pinion turns in the opposite direction of the same-side axle.

He gotcha there, Dave . Put that 2 1/2' pipe on a breaker bar, keep adding penetrant, and it will work.

 

[Markey]

GOOD NEWS!!! Large nut securing right brake drum FINALLY broke free. I borrowed a large 3/4" ratchet from a friend. Previously, I had been using a 1/2" drive. The larger size made all the difference. That stubborn nut broke free immediately. To make things ever sweeter, the drum simply slid right off the spine/pinion without any trouble (unlike the left side). I will get both drums blasted, clean everything up, reassemble, and report back. I thank everyone very much for their valuable input. Not only did the larger size ratchet make all the difference, so did all who responded.

 

[kenmac]

sounds great ! I have a large glass bead machine that I used to clean mine up so, I can't say how a sand blasting job will do but, it should be ok.

 

[Jagmandave]

Remember, the large nut that secures the drum is attached to the spline/pinion which, in-turn is geared to the rear axel. The spline/pinion turns in the opposite direction of the same-side axle.

OK, showing my ignorance of your particular model, I didn't know it had the extra gearing there, I thought the spline was on the same shaft as the wheel...my bad.

Glad you got it off OK, onward and upward!

I know what you mean about the right sized tool for the job. I was trying to get my blades off my ZTR with a 1/2 breakover bar and a 5ft length of pipe. After breaking the bar and the socket, I went down to Sears and bought 3/4" drive versions................came right off!